Spring Plate Bushing Replacement Instructions

[asgi99]

I have listed all the tasks to replace the spring plate bushings on my 83 SC. With the correct tools and some luck you could do this in an afternoon. Thanks everyone on the board for their help. Any comments/suggestions welcome and I can update.

Tools
Tape measure, screw driver, Jack, jack stands, Lug wrench, 22mm socket, 17mm socket, 19 mm socket, pry bar, Inclinometer, brute force, vice grips, tape, heavy hammer, wire brush, paint, blow torch, pliers, flat head screwdriver, drill plus wire brush, 24 mm wrench /socket, 36mm wrench/socket, breaker bar, lithium grease, Penetrating spray, wire brush10mm I 5 * 70mm and 10mm I 5 *50mm hex bolts

Task
· Measure wheel well height (good idea to measure all around as any change in one corner will inpact the other corners) or alternatively use the wheelhub/torsion bar method (you can find this on the forum)
· Jack up car and support rear by torsion bar tubes
· Remove side moulding in order to remove access hole. You will need to remove this as even if you are not changing the torsion bars, you need the space to navigate the spring plate out of the car. Its also a good idea to pull out and check the torsion bar
· Remove wheels
· Jack suspension (supporting lower shock mount) and remove shock bolt. Let hang free
· Jack suspension and remove bottom rear spring plate bolt (this will allow the spring plate to droop when it is detached from the trailing arm)
· Remove eccentric bolts (mark location/orientation for reinstallation)
· Remove bolts at trailing arm. Use pry bar to pull spring plate off trailing arm. This allows spring plate to "droop"
· Measure droop angle for reinstallation
· Remove springplate cover/spring plater. Place pry bar under bottom left bolt hole (the bolt you removed first to let the spring plate droop). It may take a while. Cover will probably come off first and then the spring plate. You are now left with the spring plate and torsion bar free from the car, but the torsion bar stuck in the spring plate
· Remove spring plate from torsion bar. This is the most difficult part as there is no easy way to apply leverage. If the bar does not easily come off, I used the following method. I taped the bar, applied vice grips and then alternated between using a pry bar to try and lever off and hitting with a 5 lb hammer while holding onto the grips. Don't worry too much about scratching the plastic cover on standard bars as you can repaint when they are removed.
· Clean up splines on torsion bar using wire brush. If required, paint torsion bar if there is any bare metal (this may require you to wait over night before replacing)
· Cut around where bushing meets spring plate. Make one perpendicular cut in order to allow you to pull off with screwdriver. Cut/burn old bushing off of spring plate. Heat inside of spring plate tube until rubber smokes. Then pry off with a screwdriver. Use wire brush to remove remaining bushing
· Reset height adjustment bolt to middle of movement
· Install new bushings. Lubricate to allow them to slide on
· Apply some penetrating spray to splines on torsion bars and push the bar in and out of car to clean up the receiving hole as much as possible. To make the right adjustment you will need to be able to easily remove a greased bar so it needs to move in and out of the hole as easily as possible
· Clean up inside of spring plate (for reasons stated in previous point). Push spring plate cover onto spring plate
· Lube torsion bar. Insert back into vehicle. Push spring plate onto torsion bar. You will probably need a few goes to get the right angle. If you cant get the right angle by rotating the spring plate, pull out the torsion bar and rotate in the opposite direction (this is why it is helpful if the bar can easily come out)
· Bolt top and bottom of spring plate cover, leaving the bottom rear unbolted. You can use longer bolts (50 or 70mm) to help as the spring plate cover will need to be compressed onto the new bushing. Then swap for the original bolts
· Use jack to raise spring plate up so that two end bolts line up. Lightly tighten bolts
· Insert remaining spring plate cover bolt
· Use jack to raise up sway bar end until alignment holes match (closest to the two end bolts is the hardest to match). Install alignment nuts.
· Use jack to raise up trailing arm and reinstall shock
· Repeat on other side. Replace wheels, drop car and check ride height. You are going to need an alignment done at this point. If you plan on racing the car I have seen various posts recommending a four corner balance.

[imcarthur]

Gee, you made it all sound so easy.

Tools: You will also need a 12 mm Allen wrench to tighten the toe & camber bolts - from the rear. And a torque wrench to re-torque. Good luck getting 180 ft/lbs on the springplate eccentric & locking bolt.

2 steps you forgot:

Grab hand to staunch blood flow & run into house dripping blood all the way to the bathroom to get bandages.

and

Curse loudly & succinctly.

Just insert these 2 steps randomly throughout your instruction set.

Ian

[Dixie]

Things to note:

• A torch, even a propane torch, will ease removal of the old bushings. Heat the inside of the spring plate until the bushings can be yanked free.
• After abusing the spring plates to remove the old bushings off, you will need to paint or replate them.
• Buy an angle gauge at your local hardware store. They're cheap. Use it to measure the spring plate angle before removal and after reinstallation.
• Mark the position of the eccentrics with some nail polish. This will allow you to get the alignment in the ball park when everything goes back together.

[imcarthur]

Originally posted by Capt. Carrera
Mark the position of the eccentrics with some nail polish.

Good points Capt. Mark the position of the BOLTS - not the nuts for toe & camber. The nuts just lock it down.

Ian

[widebody911]

Mark the position of the eccentrics with some nail polish.
Good points Capt. Mark the position of the BOLTS - not the nuts for toe & camber. The nuts just lock it down.

Better yet, scribe a line on the trailing arm inside the spring plate. This provides a better visual reference.

[cbeers]

Agreed, scribe.
Look in the Bentley manual or prior write ups for a picture.


-Chris

[Paulporsche]

Guys,
Which bushings did you use when you did the replacement?

[cbeers]

I went with Elephant Racing's Poly Bronze set up.

What a difference!

-Chris

[asgi99]

Neatrix. Cheap and work great.

[imcarthur]

Neatrix.

Skip the glue step. If you have to reset the torsions again, you will find that the glue did nothing & has let go after very few miles.

Ian

[widebody911]

Elephant.

Skip the Neatrix step. If you have to reset the torsions again, you'll find that the Neatrix bushings have started to deform and disintegrate.

[88911coupe]

I just found this thread and realized I messed up...I measured the spring plate angle but I'd only removed the lower right bolt that stops the plate from drooping too far, the plate was still attached to the trailing arm. Have I messed this up? I did etch where the plate connects to the trailing arm but I guess now my ride height is going to be off...correct?