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Work in Progress
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Is this worth Saving? WARNING it gets ugly
Hey guys I am wondering if this tub is worth saving or should I go hunting for a roller? I am 27 and have no welding experience but I would like to do the work on my own because I cannot afford to pay someone else to do it, beyond that I really like working on the car. I'm not in any rush to get it done. Any suggestions for places books ect. to learn about welding?
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Registered
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Wow, that looks tough. First photo I thought was ok, but then..... I can't imagine fixing and painting all that would be cheaper than finding a good, galvanized roller.
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2022 BMW 530i 2021 MB GLA250 2020 BMW R1250GS |
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Recreational User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 888
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Fixing up a rust bucket is a "low-money-down" trap.
If it looks this bad before you media blast it, you're really going to be shocked when you see what's left after you do. I'd spend the money you're "planning" (or more precisely "going")to use on rust repair on a few short-hop plane tickets and car shipping and expand your search for a better one out of state. |
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Not Quite Banned
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Ft. Lauderdale
Posts: 1,222
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This one looks like a lot of work, even for a pro.
Rust repair is probably one of the most under-estimated repairs you can undertake. You begin in one area and often you find it has spread, or worse, to a point where even a 'pro' would have a difficult time from a structural standpoint. If you are sure that you have uncovered the worst of it, you have nothing to lose. What you gain from completing a repair such as this far surpasses simply a completed car with no rust - it would be a very deep sense of satisfaction. On the other hand, if you are easily frustrated and become pressed for time this could join the countless others that began with good intentions and fell by the wayside... My suggestion: have someone look at the car that has experience. Let them tell you that there is no reason why, given time, work, money, and experience, the car could not be fixed. There are tremendous resources here on this board and you will always be able to ask questions. Now, on the other hand, you could probably find another tub or roller and save yourself a lot of trouble! Good luck and post pictures of your progress-
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Thomas Owen 1972 911T 1972 911S |
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 3,238
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Rich,
I'd be looking for an SC roller. You should have parts there others will want and/or you would be able to use on the roller SC. In my totally useless/inexperienced opinion I would think you'd be better off in the long run. The rust will grow while you are not working on her. The rust will grow while you cut one area out and replace it. If this is just for learning and having a good time/stress relief then the project might be worth it for you.
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David '83 SC Targa (sold ![]() '15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold ![]() I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back. |
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,189
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if you're looking for welding experience and restoration experience, then you've got the perfect car.
if you're looking for a rust free 911, buy one.
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee. ![]() |
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Crusty Conservative
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Take a local community college welding class, then decide what you want to undertake.
You can use this tub for homework, and not do much damage.
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Bill 69 911 T Targa, 2.4E w/carbs (1985-2001) 70 911 S Coupe, 2nd owner (1989- 2015) 73 911 T Targa, 3.2 Motronic (2001- ) |
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Work in Progress
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Hey guys thanks for all your input. It sounds like most of you think it would be cheaper to find a roller. I have been watching the cars for sale posts a lot lately. I have a 3.2 that is getting rebuilt and the transmission out of the 76. I think that it would be a good idea to have a pro take a gander and see what they say before I totally give up. The only hard part is that the car is in southwest Colorado not exactly the melting pot of 911's! The 76 was originally my Dads car and he gave it to me for graduating from college. I haven't been in a "running" 911 since he used to drive it around in the early 80's. I only remember it in the garage never running. Wish I could post the picture of me and the car when I was a kid, but it is in print only.
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"The reason most people give up is because they look at how far they have to go, not how far they have come." -Bruce Anderson via FB -Marine Blue '87 930 |
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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Having been through some rust repair let me share how I see your car.
That is a bunch of rust to fix. you will have to cut, weld, metal finish, protect, prime, paint every area and more. it will take you a long time. Even if you devote entire weekends, weeknights and sometimes days off you are looking at more than a year to complete if you DIY. The issue here is not if you are capable of doing the work (we will get to that shortly), the issue is do you want to be without a car for that long? Let's say you are capable of doing the welding but don't have the equiptment. It sounds like you are willing to learn. you will likely spend $4-700 in tools to start on the repairs. Then there is about $800 just in sheet metal stampings. this is not including all the parts you will have to fab or will find when you start cutting out panels. For example, based on teh rust at the front of the rocker near the kick panel, I can tell you will probably have to replace the door hinge post, or at least buy the hinge post and splice in the bottom section. Don't forget a full respray when you are done. It is much more cost effective, not including the time involved assuming you work free, to buy an SC roller. You may consider parting this car out and picking up a good SC with the money you would spend to fix this one. Its not an easy decision, especially when you have a small budget. Those are VERY extensive problems. Another option is to figure out how much you would spend each month on parts and such. Mulitply that by 24 and see what you could get for a 2 year finance plus the money from parting yours to buy a driveable car. The joys of using the car will outweigh the check each month.
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Peru, Indiana
Posts: 455
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The other big issue and what made me decide to part my '71T was you have shown pictures of what rust you can see, what about the rust you can't see. When I cut mine up I found all sorts of hidden areas and was amazed at the hidden rust. My .02 worth, buy a '77 or later. You'll appreciate it in the long run.
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1977 911 with major upgrades! |
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Unregistered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: a wretched hive of scum and villainy
Posts: 55,652
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There will be alot more rust that you haven't even found yet.
You will eventually have much more time and money into that car than it will ever be worth, and fixing it will not be fun. If it was a rare or special model I could see it, but not that car. |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 4,870
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The worst thing about fixing a rust bucket is a couple of years after it's been restored, when your paint starts bubbling and starts to look like crap again. You should find a rust free roller. I restored a rusted out car that I got at a good price, it took a couple of years to finish, and I wouldn't do it again. The extra start-up cash for a clean car is well worth it.
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Registered
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Visible rust multiplied by three is a generally accepted formula. When you see serious corrosion in a complew and/or critical area you're likely in over your head if you've never done welding, metal work or restoration work in general.
IMO, with you collecting the bits to piece together a car you'll have your hands full even with a rust free roller.....most would.
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Warren & Ron, may you rest in Peace. |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,630
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youll end up buying a roller for all teh parts, Kevin
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On a great circle route
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: recalculating...
Posts: 680
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There is a roller for sale on the Peachstate PCA website
No affiliation Good luck with your project! ![]()
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Russ |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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cut it up and save the decent stuff for the next project. it's toast.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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If this were an early car, or even a '74, I'd say maybe. But there were so many things that went wrong with the 75-76 cars that it would be tough to justify it. Not to say that these cars were poor performers - they weren't. It's just that the problems with the high-heat 2.7 engines and lack of rust protection really put some pressure on their longevity.
I suppose the upside is that good examples of these cars will eventually become quite rare when many of them deteriorate... -Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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Work in Progress
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I think I hear Taps playing somewhere! HA HA. I would not have guessed that the majority of people would say to fold up the shop. I guess that is what happens when you park a car in damp cold barn for 18 years.
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"The reason most people give up is because they look at how far they have to go, not how far they have come." -Bruce Anderson via FB -Marine Blue '87 930 |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Jamestown,NC USA
Posts: 1,291
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I hate people telling me i cant do something. That said, the only reason i would lean towards not doing it is because you have rust in places that no one makes replacment panels for. I am a competent weldor, but fabrication of pieces in weird spots is for the pros, and expensive. If it were me, i would buy a roller, build the car and mess with this one on the side as a learning tool.
Paul
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My ignition is retarded. |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Scituate, MA
Posts: 1,301
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I would recommend against it. I recently stripped my car and found tons of rust and odd things I didn't know existed. Based on my recent experience, I would guess that you only see about 1/2 of the rust and rot. Unless you have a real ability to not worry about finishing, this project will control your life until you complete it. The costs and time appear endless at times. It is a real lousy feeling when you have been welding for months and still have more to do. Then you get to the bondos, same thing.
I agree with the others, since the car is not a real special model (all 911's are special, just some more) I would part out and start with a better tub. Who wants to spend years doing fixing a car when they could get a complete one sooner and cheaper. Then again, if you are looking for a good "told you I could do it", this would be a great one for that. Good luck. |
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