Front shock change. How the f%&# !

[livi]

Got my new Bilstein front shocks today. Boge struts.
Read in the archives and Waynes book. Supposedly when loosing the top nut (that was easy), pushing down the old insert into the fender well (also easy) - you then should be able to swing it out under the fender. No bloody way ! Need at least 10 -15 cm more.


Depending what way I turn the wheel, either the brake hose or the bar doing the steering (don know whats called in English) limit the "swing range".

What to do ?

I´m an academic, what the f&%# am I trying to achieve here ? Do I really have leave to my mechanic - would kill my vanity !!

Advice, please

[Tim Hancock]

Markus, I was able to remove and install Boge inserts on my '79 SC by removing the nut then swinging the assembly out. If I remember right, when the nut is completely removed, it allows the strut insert to lean outward a little more in the strut housing, thus allowing clearance past the fender lip.

My SC should have the same front fenders as your '85. Be careful not to rip your brake lines, I was worried about mine but they came out OK.
Good luck!

[livi]

Thanks Tim,

With 'nut' you referring to the nut keeping the cartridge in the strut (under the dust cover) ?

edit: didn´t help.

[Par911]

Originally posted by livi
Thanks Tim,

With 'nut' you referring to the nut keeping the cartridge in the strut (under the dust cover) ?

edit: didn´t help.

No I think he is referring to the nut on the shock towers in your front trunk area. Remove this nut, then using both hands, pull down on the stop of the shock until the top stud area is out of the shock tower. As Tim mentioned, just make sure not to bend your brake line once it's out.

[rcm]

I did mine just a few months ago. I found that if you swing the front right wheel out like you were making a right. Push that strut all the way in, it's a bear, the strut should roll foward or towards the front of the car and come out underneath the fender right where it (the fender) rolls down. I do not think it had the insert unscrewed at that point. I had cracked it loose still under the fender and than unscrewed once it was out past the fender.

[livi]

Thanks guys,

I have done all that - so far easy enough.

Problem is there is not enough "swing range" to get it out under the fender. Brake hose and/or tie rod (I think ?) stops further movement.

I think John Walker once mentioned you have to keep the front of the car level otherwise the sway bar will hinder the downward movement of the whole suspension part and thus not clear the fender well. I have only jacked the side I am working on. Perhaps thats it.

If so what are the best jack stand points in front or maybe I could just lower the working side to level the other side.

Thanks,

edit: I am a moron.

[rcm]

I would assume that you are not jacking under the suspension at this point. If you use the search here there are several threads on jacking up these things and the best points to do it.

[Par911]

Originally posted by livi
Thanks guys,

I have done all that - so far easy enough.

Problem is there is not enough "swing range" to get it out under the fender. Brake hose and/or tie rod (I think ?) stops further movement.

I think John Walker once mentioned you have to keep the front of the car level otherwise the sway bar will hinder the downward movement of the whole suspension part and thus not clear the fender well. I have only jacked the side I am working on. Perhaps thats it.

If so what are the best jack stand points in front or maybe I could just lower the working side to level the other side.

Thanks,

edit: I am a moron.

Markus, I use the front tow hooks to support front end of the car in the air. Place the jack stands underneath the OEM tow hook, the thingy that this red tow hook is attached to (it's underneath). Place one on each side.

[livi]

Thanks,

Tried leveling the car. Did not help.

Exact problem is not the hight of the shock versus the fender lip - there is plenty of space.

Problem is I can´t angel the shock enough - brake hose/steering rod won´t allow it. I can´t imagine it will work unless I take on of them off. I assume the rod is easier if I can get it loose without breaking the rubber "cover". I think that little part is called tie rod end ?

[jevvy]

do you not just need to lean on the shock for a while so it compresses - I had to do this and was sweating from compressing the shock and holding it that compressed as I tried to lever it under the fender

JUST RE_READ "Exact problem is not the hight of the shock versus the fender lip"

my suggestion is no good then.

I also unhooked all my brake hoses and wires as much as possible and unclipped them from the mountings - couldnt have done it without doing this.

oh yeah, be ready for al lthe oil that comes out - it stinks!

[livi]

Right, thanks.

Guess no one is voting for loosening the tie rod end (if thats what its called).

Gee, I feel stupid and out of place. God thing though - makes me appreciate going to work, where I know what I am doing.

[Par911]

Originally posted by livi
Right, thanks.

Guess no one is voting for loosening the tie rod end (if thats what its called).

Gee, I feel stupid and out of place. God thing though - makes me appreciate going to work, where I know what I am doing.

Did you unbolt the caliper from the strut? Try doing that and supporting the caliper with some wire or a hanger. The strut should lean over then after you took the nut off in the shock tower.

[Wil Ferch]

Did we overlook the need to remove the "clip" where the hard line meets the soft line at the inside of the fender well?

I think someone did...yeah...there it is....

Just that no one is mentioning that...kinda important, though, or EXACTLY the problem that is mentioned will surface..

Wil

[jpnovak]

I think the main issue is the car not being level. The sway bar is currently doing its job correctly and preventing one side of the suspension from getting too far away from the other side.

Jack the car up in the middle of the front so that both front wheels leave the ground. This should allow for plenty of a-arm droop with both sides matched.

btw, the strut tube will only clear the fender by a few cm. It usually works best to angle them towards the back of the car. Good luck.

[ChrisBennet]

With the front of the car (both tires) off the ground. This is what I do:
1. Press brake pedal part way down and hold it there with a stick.
2. Disconnect brake line to strut. (Step 1 keeps fluid from leaking out.)
3. Put masking tape along edge of fender to protect paint from strut.
4. Put jack under ball joint and lift it to compress strut.
5. Release jack quickly and swing strut out from under fender before it can decompress completely. You'll still have to press down on the strut but it saves you the work of compressing it in the first place.
-Chris

[Cookie Porsche]

Markus,

Is your car very low? If it is not the stabiliser bar you may be fighting the torsion bar.

1) loosen the stab/bar from the body - x2 middle brackets.
2) or, "raise" the car by turning the torsion bar - just count the turns!
3) Eat some jungle oats and press the shock down fully...

Tom

[Tim Hancock]

Markus, when I did mine, I had both wheels up off the ground. I do not remember disconnecting the brake line clips (I may have, but I really do not think I did). I think you need to jack the whole front up off the ground. Before I got my scissors lift, I jacked under one of the front tow hook loops, then placed jack stands under the front torsion bar caps (it has been awhile, but I think that is how I did it).

[livi]

Thanks guys,

Taking of the "clip" at the attachment of the oil line to the inner fender wall did the trick. I can now just barely angel it out under the fender lip.

Well, next problem I afraid: Its impossible pulling out the cartridge from the strut. Yes, I have removed the collar.

This is Boge struts and shock - should just pull right out, no ?
Some kind of vacuum going on with the oil in the strut, or what ?

Any ideas ? And thanks a bundle for your patience !

[Tim Hancock]

It should come out with a little clunking action. When it does, oil will drip out of the thing all over, so have a big bucket or something ready to put the old insert in. Before you install your new catridges, be sure to suck the oil out of your strut body ( I used an oil syphon pump).

[livi]

"Clunking action" = hammering on the strut ?