Need Clutch Crash Course! Adjustment =~ slip?

[widebody911]

Looks like I might need a new clutch. There was an 'incident' taking off from a light last weekend where the clutch was dumped, the engine went to redline but the car didn't. I'm getting moderate slippage in normal driving, and I can smell it. I was supposed to go to the track tomorrow, so I drove the car to work today as a test, and it's definitely a no-go in it's current condition.

I'm hoping there is a way to correct this with an adjustment, but I'm skeptical at the same time. However, I don't fully understand the clutch adjustment procedure despite reading thru the factory manual and some threads here.

If I do replace the clutch, what is a practical upgrade path? The car is 95% track, but I still have to drive it there and back. Right now I have a Sachs "power clutch"

Next weekend (9/30 & 10/1) is the showdown with Tyson and Jack @ Thunderhill, so whatever I do, I have to do it pretty fast if I'm going to make it up there.

Any adjustment hints/advice appreciated!

Thanks!

[MotoSook]

Thom,

I think you have a 915, right?

Anyhow, if it's slipping, and you have no tension on the clutch cable, then there isn't anything you can do but replace the clutch. With your 3.6 and heavy track use, I would look into a clutch pressure plate with more clamping force. Check with your Sachs dealer for an appropriate clutch PP with a heavier spring force (I made some notes for a 240 mm clutch, but your 915 has a 225mm clutch...I don't have Sachs number for those)

Clutch material? I don't think you'll need anything more agressive than the stock disk. Wear is an issue, sure, but you're not dumping the clutch while you are on the track are you? No....and your 3.6 isn't making a gob of power that would require an aggressive clutch material.

I'm just starting to accumulate information of clutches, so forgive me if the info is not the best

[Eugene at Pelican Parts]

Thom,

Probably the best you could do is adjust the cable to have as much slack as possible. This would allow an old clutch to maintain as much "hold" as possible, but may cause a new clutch to not disengage properly. Adjust the cable sleeve so that it practically drops off the bracket on the tranny case, and then tighten it back half a turn. Adjust the pedal freeplay by setting the stop screw to be about 1 mm away from the release arm, and then make sure everything else is tight. Drive up and down the driveway. If that doesn't help, then the clutch is gone.

[MobileWrks]

Loosen the clutch cable (15mm nut)
With the cable slack set the fork to 1.2mm (13mm set screw)
Tight the slack out of the cable, until you have 1.0 mm
Lock it into place and drive it...
You may need a clutch..

[widebody911]

I'll try the adjustment when I get home this afternoon, hopefully it's not on the back of a yellow truck!

What's your schedule like next week, Jimmy?

[MobileWrks]

29th and 30th open.. Call me whenever, number posted below.

[widebody911]

I'm assuming I did something wrong, because now the pedal is halfway to the floor...

[Johnathan]

This is most likely because the helper (omega) spring at the tranny, has been compressd too much and turned, you can twist it back from underneight the car.

Honestly I can't remeber how I adjusted it so this wouldn't happen, I feel your pain though, I've spend entirely too much time underneight the car the past week trying to get it adjusted just right. turns out I was also missing the backlash spring...