Replacing CV joint on 79SC

arsenty · 04-25-2006, 08:14 AM

Anybody have any idea how much will cost to replace rear CV joints on 79SC? Was told by mechanic that I need to replace right rear. Also, was told must replace both sides eventhought the left is fine. Any response is greatly appreciate. Thanks.

Arsenty

IROC · IROC's Garage

You really only need to replace the defective joint, IMO. They don't need to be replaced in sets or anything.

How much would it cost? Depends on his labor rate, I would assume. These are pretty easy to replace and are pretty cheap. Our host sells the CV joint itself for around $75. Add $20 or so for a boot, grease, etc. and you're looking at $100 in parts. If he charges more than $200, I'd be shocked.

Then again, I'd do this myself...

Mike

arsenty · 04-25-2006, 10:43 AM

Thanks Mike.

I'll try to replace CV joints myself. I have a feeling I'll get charged more than $200. I agree that I need to change only the bad one. I seen some good posting on this forum how to replace the CV joints. Anything else I should be replacing while replacing the CV joints?

Arsenty

DaveE · 04-25-2006, 11:00 AM

Get new bolts too......

coloradoporsche · 04-25-2006, 11:14 AM

There's a HUGE thread on this if you do a search. Way more than you ever wanted to know about CV joints...down to an analysis of metallurgy, etc.

IMHO, on a 79 like ours, all you need to do is replace the joints which can be bought for ~$90 each from Pelican. Inspect the hardware for damage and replace if needed. Inspection for CV joint bolt (OK, "cap head screw") tightness should be done after driving 100 miles, and as part of your pre-track inspection every time.

IROC · IROC's Garage

I bought the bolts locally for about 40 cents each. They're nothing special. It is nice to replace them - "while you're in there".

Mike

Jim Sims · 11:47 AM

"They're nothing special"

Actually they are; they need to be strength class 12.9. Metric socket head cap screws (bolts) are also made in lesser strength grades (10.9) which are not adequate for this application. CV joint screws should have a 12.9 mark on the head.

If the CV joint screws are in good condition (not corroded and the wrenching features unmarred) then the bolts may be reused. Always replace the Schnorr lockwashers.

Motorhead-45 · 04-25-2006, 01:27 PM

If you get in there and find that you need to replace both joints you may find it easier to simply buy the entire axle assembly versus replacing individual CV's. The new assembly is a simple bolt on and if you consider the two joints are $75.00 each and the boot kit cost, the special pliers for the clamps and the mess of dealing with the old CV's you are beginning to approach the $250.00 or so it costs for new complete end-to-end CV axles. Just a thought for consideration. I think the CV joint also is a press-off and press-on job meaning you need access to a shop press and there are lots of ways to screw the joint up when using the press. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.

I chose to replace the entire assembly.

IROC · IROC's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Jim Sims
"They're nothing special"

Actually they are; they need to be strength class 12.9. Metric socket head cap screws (bolts) are also made in lesser strength grades (10.9) which are not adequate for this application. CV joint screws should have a 12.9 mark on the head.

If the CV joint screws are in good condition (not corroded and the wrenching features unmarred) then the bolts may be reused. Always replace the Schnorr lockwashers.

What I should have said was that 12.9 socket head cap screws are very common. They're nothing "exotic". I bought them at the local fastener emporium for about 40 cents each.

Mike

rcecale · rcecale's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by coloradoporsche
There's a HUGE thread on this if you do a search. Way more than you ever wanted to know about CV joints...down to an analysis of metallurgy, etc.

Several of the PPBBS superstars have made this thread the be-all to end-all in CV Joint Information

Click here.

Randy

arsenty · 04-25-2006, 03:30 PM

I was thinking the same to change the whole axle. It might be easier and cheaper in a long run.

Randy,
I read that thread and I am affraid I'll run into some problem whereI would end up changing the whole axle.

Shuie · 06:05 PM

The next time you have a couple of hours to spare, click on Randy's link.

I went with new halfshaft assemblies as well. Its not a cheap project. Its not terribly difficult either. It is a dirty job and it is very important that everything is done properly (read the linked thread above).

Buy new hardware. Thats the cheap part of this project. 24 bolts, 24 lock washers, 4 gaskets, and the 4 half-moon shapped spacers is probably less than $50. The halfshaft assemblies are $200-$300 each depending on who you get them from.

Check with your local Autozone type chain for core exchanges on the entire assemblies. You'll be surprised at what you can sometimes find for literally 1/2 of what everyone is selling it for. It didnt work for me on the CVs, but you never know.

gratuitous new CV halfshaft assembly pic