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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Hartsville, SC
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CIS Blower testing
Being electrical circuit challenged, could someone tell me which wires to connect to the + and - sides of a battery to test the blower that sits next to the CIS air box if it is off the car? My blower wires are brown and yellow with black stripes.
Thanks. Jack |
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Meassure in the contact with a tester.
I'll make a wild guess and say itīs toast ![]()
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Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
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Location: Charleston, SC
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/911_electrical_diagrams.htm
These diagrams will help. My suggestion as a fellow SC resident is to throw it away and backdate. Plenty of heat for our winter here.
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Kevin '79 Coupe |
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Yeah, throw that crap away.
I made a T piece and connected the hoses to. I will get the proper parts later. ![]()
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Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
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Thanks for the link to the wiring diagrams. But they are Greek to me. I still need to know if the brown or the yellow wire is the "hot" one. If the blower is still good I don't want to damage it.
Jack |
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I'm betting brown goes to negative terminal. I don't think it would hurt anything if connected backwards. Should be a path through either way according to the diagram, unless the motor is shorted to ground. I will check when I get home I do believe I have an old removed motor in the garage somewhere.
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Kevin '79 Coupe |
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Thanks Kevin. I appreciate your help.
Jack |
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Itīs a dc motor it will just go the other way. brown is negative in the diagram from Haynes.
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Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
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Thanks guys. I gave it a shot of juice and it looks like Safe is right - it appears to be toast.
Jack |
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The blower motor is always on when the engine is on a 75.
In 76 porsche (they noticed that the blower didnt live very long...) added a switch so its only on when you have pulled up the heater levers. Check out this site. Heater system
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Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
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Great info Safe. Lots of other tech articles on that same site.
I guess I must have made it through last winter without the blower and didn't realize it. Now I have to decide if I want to try to find another one and add an off/on switch - or get the hoses and couplers to backdate to the pre-blower setup. Jack |
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Glad I could be of help
![]() The only difference between the blower and pre-blower setup is that the pre-blower donīt give you so much heat on lower rpms, you need to keep the engine above 3000 rpm. But it looks way nicer without the hoses and you save a bit of weight where it counts ![]()
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Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
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I back dated mine.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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You'll need the blower if you spend time in traffic with the engine at low speed or near idle. If your motor is toast, forget about fixing it; I tried forever and gave up. New Porsche motors are extremely expensive, but you can adapt an inexpensive Grainger motor to work. See here:
The Wavey heater blower motor fix ianc
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BMW 135i. Nice. Fast. But no 911... "I will tell you there is a big difference between driving money and driving blood, sweat and tears." - PorscheGuy79 |
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