88 Engine drop Last minute tips

88-diamondblue · 10-13-2005, 10:02 AM

The engine drop starts tomorrow afternoon. 2 broken head studs plus who knows what else. The while I am at it stuff. I have read everything I can find here, Wayne's books and did a search here. Need input on the differences unhooking the G50 trans, What difference from the tech article on the site. Any last minute tips are greatly appreciated. The digital camera is charged and ready. And fantastic service already from Tom at PP

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Take the motor and the trans out together (not that you could do otherwise with a G50).
Beautiful car Michael,
-Chris

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

Two bits of advice that are still fresh - searing in my memory.

#1 drop then engine a little - before you attempt to pull off the clutch slave cylinder and starter - makes a huge difference.

Take more digital pictures at every interval - from all different angles. I took some and thought - this is being silly - then when I was putting back together - was really looking for a picture from x angle that wasn;t there.

ghnat · ghnat's Garage

If you dont have the Bently manual then get it. I used both Wayne's books and the Bently during my engine drop - actually more Bently because it was dead on for our cars.

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

That's true - and seems everything is more SC related in the engine rebuild book.

john walker's workshop · 10-13-2005, 11:16 AM

just unbolt the slave and hang it on an e/brake cable, out of the way. don't disconnect the hydraulic hose. shifter is just a bolt under the boot. don't take the trans mount bolts out until the unit is supported with a jack, or it will swing down and do a lot of damage and probably hurt you bad. be careful if you need to use a slidehammer to remove the release fork shaft. the ears in the bellhousing can break off if you go wild. easy taps only. other than that, all the disconnects are obvious. lower slow, check for things you forgot and things hanging up.

DW SD · 10-13-2005, 11:20 AM

When I did mine, I had to lower the rear of the engine pretty far to get it to clear the body of the car and get the shift linkage out of the tunnel. I would have been better off starting with the rear of the car lifted a bit higher than the front. Even 4" to 6" extra would have helped a lot. The engine and trans would have been closer to level when it comes out.
Go slowly.

Doug

KobaltBlau · 10-13-2005, 11:30 AM

Where has this car lived its life, and how many miles? wondering about the broken head studs...

88-diamondblue · 10-13-2005, 12:28 PM

Thanks everyone for the tips. The car originally was from Minneapolis from 1988-92. Purchased 1992 with 42000 miles. Don't think it was used during the winter. I purchased just about 2 years ago with 79,000 miles. No winters from 92 on. Have 88,000 miles on it now. The head studs are the coated type. One on each side in the middle. The clutch update and probably the clutch will be done. There is a possibility that I bent a valve but won't know that until next week. Thanks John that was what I hadn't found out, how to disconnect the slave. I'm getting the car ready tonight and 1 PM tomorrow the fun starts. Try to have pictures tomorrow night.

KobaltBlau · 10-13-2005, 12:53 PM

take pictures of the teardown!

88-diamondblue · 10-13-2005, 09:26 PM

Started early couldn't wait. A couple of questions. The throttle linkage only needs to be disconnected at this point?

Is this the backup sensor? Do you disconnect or remove?

Also just the one wire to the starter? So far every thing has been easy. Only one bolt twisted off, idiot error. Impact wrench on the sway bar mount, it helps to have the wrench going the right way off not on.

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

Yes, disconnect, yes one wire to starter. Don;t forget transmission ground strap

dfink · 05:56 AM

Mike I think you also have to disconnect the throttle under the car next to the transmission filler plug. [edit] OK so I dont have my good glasses. Looks like that is where you already disconnected. That is the location where you adjust the linkage. Wish you were doing this Saturday I would have liked have driven up and helped out. Will likely be pulling mine and would have been fun. Do you think it would have been easier with the entire car in the air or do you get more clearance with the front end down.

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

Your throttle ball joint probably has a tiny cotter pin inside. I don't think this is mentioned in Wayne's book and I bent mine up, trying to disconnect it before I realized a pin was holding it in. You will probably have to raise your car a lot higher to get the motor out. Be very careful with the tranny selector rod. Don't let it get hung up with a lot of weight on the other end of it. If it bends, you will be in trouble. I bought a pack of multi-colored electrical tape to put on each wire and plug connection in the engine compartment before I started pulling things apart. That way reinstall was literally color by numbers.

I had no problem separating the engine and tranny. I used a screwdriver to pry out the cross shaft and it came very easily. This will be a fun project for you. I also got a lot of big ziplock baggies for hardware and a Sharpie for labeling them. After you've done it 3-4 times, you won't need to label anything anymore. You'll have it memorized.

88-diamondblue · 10-14-2005, 07:39 AM

Dfink, I will let you know and would be glad to come down and help, will know a lot more after this afternoon. So far everything has been easy. Rick, I have the car up about 36" at the bumper in the back. High enough?

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

36" is probably high enough, but how much of that space is your jack gonna take up, thereby raising the engine?

88-diamondblue · 10-14-2005, 07:50 AM

Planning on using a fork lift with a pallet. So about 5" thick pallet. The pallet will be from engines that are shipped into where I am doing this at, it will fit perfectly under the engine and allowing access at the same time. I will have pictures too.

Ned nyna 11 · 10-14-2005, 09:02 AM

Michael,
Just did the heads on my 87 so it's all fresh in my mind.

Note a little pin on a couple of those throttle linkage connections, must come out before you pop the joints with one dexterous twist of a screwdriver.

That 2 pin connector on the passenger side of the tranny should be disconnected.

Use freezer bags for organising parts.

For cleaning, a few gallons of thinner in a 5 gallon does a nice job, Make a small parts cleaner from a coffee can with drain holes, soak in the drum and shake.