Scotch Brite on polished fuchs results...

[merbesfield]

Wheels look great. I say get rid of the cat.

[theclaw]

Bob, Thanks for the inspiration. I posted over in Economy RSR Fuchs finish ??? since I lost your original thread. Have to thank Iksomal for pointing me back here. So here's my update. I totally stole your idea but I think I'm going to try the pads you got from the Depot.

First,

I tried like heck to blast them myself. Bought a HF blaster but after a couple of attempts and a trip to the eye doctor to get the damn beads out of my eye (even wore a hood), I gave up on home bead blasting. I tried a local guy but he just didn't work out. That meant alot of driving and $$ to have them outsourced.

I tested some paint, even Rustoleum Dull Aluminum but it just doesn't have the same look as real metal.

So I went and "brushed" my own using a purple (metal) 3M pad. Here's a picture of a before and after wheel. I still intend to paint the webbing but wanted to post some progress since this has been a pretty frustrating journey.



Wheel on the left is "Brushed", wheel on the right "Polished".

[cjannelli]

Before


After
Since I didn't know how to attach this link to my 87 Carrera post. Here is Mr Tilton's original post.
Best Regards,
Chris

[Tidybuoy]

This is a great thread. I can't wait to get started on mine.

[theclaw]

Ok, I've finally finished mine a few weeks ago and got them on the car. Here's a few shots of the progress.


A set of "Before" pictures





Taped, ready for stripping






Stripped ready for a purple scotch pad






One brushed, one not before and afters





I spun them on the car. Why? Because I could.

It also made for a very uniform finish around the rim.






The finished product. I used a quarter to mask off the lug nut holes.






On the car. For a final touch, I used household stainless cleaner on all the brushed portions of the rim. The lip is simply polished.

[Fishcop]

That looks awesome Jeff!

[PropellerHead]

Here is my attempt at the same. Question for those with field experience: This is now a raw finish - how do you protect from water spots, etc?
These will become my track wheels although I like the look so much I may perform the same treatment on my street wheels! I can imagine they will get lots of brake dust and potentially water damage. Obviously the removal of the OE anodized surface makes them higher maintenance - that was understood before I began.

These started as typical black center 16x7 wheels and I chemically stripped the paint, bead blasted and then some 3M pads to get the sheen 'dull' like others in this thread. Then SEM semi-gloss paint for the black.

[modernbeat]

I've had very good luck using Gibbs Penetrant, and somewhat OK use out of PB Blaster as a combo sealant and protector. I've used the Gibbs on a number of aluminum parts that had raw polished or bead blasted finishes and it's kept them from staining or oxidizing.

A writeup on the Gibbs stuff:
Gibbs Brand penetrant

[PropellerHead]

Does it darken the raw aluminum? I'm very interested to try this on my freshly refinished wheels!
Of course I need to find some of it. I suppose with an old 911 (mag engine case, fan housing, 901 gearbox, etc) it is probably good to have on hand anyway.

[theclaw]

Chet, I used stainless cleaner normally used for appliances. It gave a very good uniform look to the metal after working it. Will look into Gibbs too.

John, thanks much.

[cjannelli]

I"ve been using the "Sprayway" foam glass cleaner that Bob Tilton described in his initial post in 2005(page two of this thread).
It works great and takes about 30 seconds per wheel.
Chris

[Jim Williams]

I have a set of 16" Fuchs, 6s and 7s, no tires mounted, factory anodized finished, that have been sitting around in the garage for a couple of years. They need a refinish and this thread has awakened an urge to give this brushed look a try.

I know the anodize has to come off, and it's been implied that bead blasting can do this as well as de-anodizing by chemical means. I have a bead blaster, a big cabinet, and a big compressor. Are there any compelling reasons not to use blasting for removing the anodize? I've blasted bare aluminum before and know it's sort of like using an artist's brush, there are degrees of the finish you can impart with the right touch. What about having to go through anodize first? Can you see it going through the anodize so you know when not to be too heavy-handed? Anyone with advice who's been there, done that?

I hadn't thought about a DIY refinish on these wheels until seeing this thread, now I'm giving it some serious thought....

[theclaw]

Originally Posted by Jim Williams

I have a set of 16" Fuchs, 6s and 7s, no tires mounted, factory anodized finished, that have been sitting around in the garage for a couple of years. They need a refinish and this thread has awakened an urge to give this brushed look a try.

I know the anodize has to come off, and it's been implied that bead blasting can do this as well as de-anodizing by chemical means. I have a bead blaster, a big cabinet, and a big compressor. Are there any compelling reasons not to use blasting for removing the anodize? I've blasted bare aluminum before and know it's sort of like using an artist's brush, there are degrees of the finish you can impart with the right touch. What about having to go through anodize first? Can you see it going through the anodize so you know when not to be too heavy-handed? Anyone with advice who's been there, done that?

I hadn't thought about a DIY refinish on these wheels until seeing this thread, now I'm giving it some serious thought....

Jim, Oven cleaner takes off the clear coat on the anodized wheel. If you have a beadblaster and equipment why not just go that route. The brushed look, while actually looks pretty cool, is for those of us wankers without the right equipment and too cheap to pay someone to do it.

Now that I think of it, since you got the blaster and cabinet, I have some small jobs that need........ Just kidding.

[PropellerHead]

Originally Posted by Jim Williams

I have a set of 16" Fuchs, 6s and 7s, no tires mounted, factory anodized finished, that have been sitting around in the garage for a couple of years. They need a refinish and this thread has awakened an urge to give this brushed look a try.

I know the anodize has to come off, and it's been implied that bead blasting can do this as well as de-anodizing by chemical means. I have a bead blaster, a big cabinet, and a big compressor. Are there any compelling reasons not to use blasting for removing the anodize? I've blasted bare aluminum before and know it's sort of like using an artist's brush, there are degrees of the finish you can impart with the right touch. What about having to go through anodize first? Can you see it going through the anodize so you know when not to be too heavy-handed? Anyone with advice who's been there, done that?

I hadn't thought about a DIY refinish on these wheels until seeing this thread, now I'm giving it some serious thought....

Jim,
Yes - you can see it going through the anodizing and the surface is softer under it. Careful with getting too aggressive with the blasting because the difference in hardened surface and not could be notable once you're done. The bead blaster I used had a diffuser tip and was regulated in pressure. As-such, the surface was very, very even despite the angle, etc. It made for a completely uniform blasted surface. But this equipment is not standard available, I had some assistance from a pal in the aircraft maintenance/fab business and used their awesome blast cabinet.

I like the chemical removal method personally and have tried both now. Either way, to get it to the look in this thread you'll do some sanding after blasting. I suppose a raw blasted finish with some sort of protectant could work too. I tried a sample of a blasted surface and some matte clear coat but the results were too dark for my taste.

[Jim Williams]

Originally Posted by theclaw

Jim, Oven cleaner takes off the clear coat on the anodized wheel. If you have a beadblaster and equipment why not just go that route. The brushed look, while actually looks pretty cool, is for those of us wankers without the right equipment and too cheap to pay someone to do it.

Now that I think of it, since you got the blaster and cabinet, I have some small jobs that need........ Just kidding.

Jeff,

I've read pros and cons about the oven cleaner method. From what I recall about them, you have to use the right type of cleaner. I think there may have been a "Blue can" and a "Yellow can" or something similar. One of them was too weak. And there has to be a bit of a mess involved; like wiping up, avoiding getting the goop on anything but the wheels,etc.

Re the small jobs, I only charge by the Cubic Feet of air used. (Note to self: Let's see..... How was I going to keep up with that, anyway?)

Chet,

I like using my bead blaster, so this might be the time to give this a go. I have several types of media. Walnut shells, plastic media, and a couple of different grades of glass beads (I'd think one of these would be the choice here), and even some Alabama Gulf Coast beach sand, the really fine stuff.

I have plenty of volume (5 HP, 2-stage compressor, 80 gal tank, adjustable pressure), adequate size cabinet to move the wheel around inside for a good blasting angle, but no diffuser tip (what does one of these look like?).

Would it be best to remove the painted area first with plastic media so I could "see" the anodizing equally all over the wheel? If starting with beads first on the paint, I might go through the paint, then through the anodizing too quickly without being able to stop over-doing it to the softer aluminum. Or maybe that's being too anal.

of course I might just decide to stop with the bead blasting and not do the "Scotch Brite" effect.

BTW, I've sometimes used a technique on blasted aluminum surfaces I've not seen described elsewhere. This takes away some of the dullness imparted by the beads. It's more "shiny" but stops way short of being "reflective". It requires some restraint during use, and is best practiced on a piece of freshly blasted scrap aluminum. The "tool" is a small stainless steel brush, of the toothbrush size, like sold by Harbor Freight and such. The technique is a light touch, not straight line brushing, but an almost circular motion, but yet random. If you can make out brush strokes after going over the area, you aren't doing it right.

Any observations or suggestions on blasting the wheels are welcome.

[cjannelli]

Bump to the top for interested party

[merbesfield]

I am planning on blasting my wheels and mildly polishing the lips ala RSR look. The media I have been using is recycled glass. Not same as glass beads. Comes from New Age Media, I use the fine grit in the cabinet.

[PropellerHead]

I used some Gibbs on my wheels recently, no change in the material color (unlike Mag which Gibbs gives a dark patina effect) and now they are more robust against water spots, finger prints, etc. And once dried, the Gibbs doesn't seem to attract dust like other oils do. It almost leaves a wax type finish. Once I get the wheels mounted with tires on the car with a few miles on them I'll be able to provide more feedback. Thus far - I'm very pleased!

[jayTiger]

The wheels look great.
I saw a photo of factory Fuchs with black middles, brushed silver outer rims, silver center caps, and silver lug nuts. Has anyone seen this and can you direct me in the right direction.

Thanks,
J

[rw7810]

Bob and crew - I know this is an old thread, but I had some time on my hands. Wheels were previously stripped and de-anodized and kept polished. I decide for a change. For some reason the picture is sideways. I finished with a light coat of Boeshield T9