my winter project

[mb911]

Tim that was my concern thats why I went butt joint. I also used zinc chromate over the bare metal spots and then I will use any filler needed over that. That should control the rust issue if there ever was one don't you agree?

[Mike Andrew]

Looks good, Ben. Do I see a new M&K kit in the future??

[Tim Hancock]

I am no pro on long term rust prevention and there is more than one way typically to doing most tasks.

I myself have used zinc chromate on a few touch-ups on aluminum, but I question the quality of adhesion of old school zinc chromate vs treated then epoxy primed steel.

Presently my favorite way of prepping steel for the long haul is to: Blast, etch and condition, then epoxy prime (I presently use Dupont Corlar epoxy primer. This is what I do to all new 4130 steel newly fabbed airplane components. Another way that is probably good is to blast, then prime with etching primer (I have used Variprime by Dupont on a couple of frame up motorcycle restorations with good results).

On a few car repaint projects (my lowly water cooled P-cars mainly) I have cheated by omitting the blasting (grinder instead), then immediately epoxy prime then body filler over that. These were not airplanes or 911s that I intend to keep forever and ever.

If I were doing this myself on my 911, I think I would attempt to spot blast the welds then etch and condition, then epoxy prime (might just sand/grind the bare steel instead of blasting if I had good welds with no pitting).

Either way, blasting/grinding then etching, then epoxy priming or etching primer over sanded/blasted clean steel seems like good ways to go if you want the job to last a long, long time.

[mb911]

Originally posted by Mike Andrew
Looks good, Ben. Do I see a new M&K kit in the future??

Yeah shortly Couple weeks out yet but soon.

As for zinc chromate adhereing to the metal. I have used all the products you refer to and will consider them as well. The zinc chromate is to protect for now. And yes this should be a perment car for me as I am making it the way I want it. We will play it by ear

[DzusFast]

Originally posted by mb911
What do you mean by recess ? I guess I don't understand that part. and as for welding flares on I have done them both ways 5 cars worth now but I must say the tig takes a bunch more time but keeps down on the build up and penetrates much easier and cleaner. I have finish welding 3 of the flares and took about 3 hours total for the 3.

If you could clarify the recess I would be interested in hearing this. Are you talking about a lap joint? If so I opted not to use a lap as this will be hard to metal finish. I know however it would add some more strength but really do we need it there?

Thanks for the help and please let me know the clarification

Yes. Lap joint thank you! I've been speaking Chinese so long here I forgot my Engerish. I don't see any real need for more strength........I just have always felt comfortable knowing that it's there at 170mph. (Which speed I miss BTW)

[rbcsaver]

What are those "pegs" in the 2nd pic that hold the new flare onto the old rear panel before cutting off the old one?
regards,
Steve

[mb911]

Originally posted by rbcsaver
What are those "pegs" in the 2nd pic that hold the new flare onto the old rear panel before cutting off the old one?
regards,
Steve

Those are cleco's They are a spring loaded device that has good clamping force . I used them for laying out the flare cut line. Wag-aero.com and aircraft spruce sells them as well



Ok also I just finished welding the last flare on and was thinking about the strength question. And so to be as clear as possible this is thin guage material so rule of thumb gets thrown out the window.

1st when useing a lap joint for making a weldment 100% of the top plate and 70% of the bottom plate get penetration with a good weld (AWS Guide)

2nd when using a butt joint for making a weldment 100% of both plates are penetrated (aws guide)

Now that said this is thin gauge material so you typically get 100% penetration provided dopne by a competent welder. The only advantage of using a lap joint would be to cut down on warpage and as that lap is a now a z shape causing for less flaxabilty in the base material.

There are many ways to skin a cat I can tell you the factory did butt weld and tig weld the flares on the 930s up til 1986

This project is by no means being difficult I would not suggest however a novise welder try to tackle it but somebody that has welded before should be able to do this pretty easily. Now warpage may be a different issue for the welder who is still wet behind the ears!

I will have more updated pic soon. I hope to start spreading filler tuesday or wednesday at the latest. (working on finishing the basement to)

[mb911]

updates coming soon

[mb911]

Ok here is an update . The front fenders are done, the fuchs are refinished (7 and 9s) the turbo is 90% done so what do you think?

[wowzer911]

I think you need to lower your ride height.

looks great!
I am doing my rear flares soon, and have found this and other threads helpful. Also, I have a new M&K sitting in my garage, putting it on this weekend.

[vanwyk4257]

Wow, that looks great Ben, the wheels turned out incredible!! If I ever need to have a set of wheels polished I'm sending them to that guy, you should post the before and after for reference, I am stunned. I can't wait to see the finished product in person this year, and if you ever decide to sell those rims I want first dibs!

[mb911]

Mike I just posted a thread on the rims so everyone can see the progression. Of course first dibs to you. Thanks agin for all the trouble you went to

[mb911]

Oh and so everyone understands. The car is dusty and there is some wet sanding sludge in the wheel well I did not miss a spot when I painted it.

Oh and the ride height You see the jack stand right? Anyhow hope the muffler install goes well

[vanwyk4257]

Originally posted by mb911
Mike I just posted a thread on the rims so everyone can see the progression. Of course first dibs to you. Thanks agin for all the trouble you went to

Ben, no trouble. I'm really thrilled the rims turned out the way they did, it's an amazing transformation. Oh, and I'm sure that your muffler install will go just fine!

[wowzer911]

Yea, I can't wait to mount that bad boy. I went with the dual in/out, brushed with polished tips. Looks great, can't wait to see the rears. Got any pics of the paint prep process?

[bfrenz]

Ben,

Why do you have your right blinker on.

Your one of the old guys that has the blinker on all the time and drives 25MPH arent you.

Too bad that turbo wont be getting much use.

[mb911]

Yeah brian how is that 914 coming? I remember when Ah nevermind we will just have line them up

Oh no real pics of prep I will do that for the 1/4's

[Mike Andrew]

Ben, that looks real sweeeet. Keep the pics & updates coming. I may have to take a Sunday drive to see it in person.

[mb911]

Mike you should wait until I am done then you can get a ride

[Mike Andrew]

Count on it. I'm kinda interested in the turbo deal for my SC.