I'm not a car dealer, but I would also be strongly resistant to allowing a buyer to peform a PPI on my car without a deal in hand. That's not at all unreasonable.

In my case, the buyer and I agreed upon a price subject to a PPI and my producing a Smog certificate. I took a deposit and wrote up a deposit contract. Standard procedure. After the PPI, since there were no significant issues, I went and got a smog cert and we consumated the deal.

While I have worked with owners that did not need a full contract for a PPI, it was ovbious that someone about to spend $300 to validate the mechanical condition of a car was a good risk. But working with a private party is different than working with a business. So as the others have reasonably suggested, write up a deal contingent on a PPI.

Carrera's have updated tensioners, they are in fact called "Carrera Tensioners". Aside from the normal wear and records issues, the biggest weakness of this year car is premature valve guide wear. And aside from taking off the valve covers and wiggling the valves, you'll need to know oil consumption. That's difficult to know from a dealer purchase. Leakdown/compression are very common (and probably not able to do at a dealer lot) but tell you more about general engine health and wear, not valve guide wear.

Good Luck!

Don

Let us know what happens Kvm.

Best of luck!

LOL.....good one. Even though you were joking I do keep telling myself that too socal b/c this one may end up getting away from me. Although I hope it doesn't but my bonus from work doesn't show up until my 02/15 paycheck and that is what I am using to buy the car.

Ask to contact the previous owner of the car and ask them some questions; oil consumption, repairs, mechanical issues, etc. Have your offer be contingent on a successful inspection. I dunno, I think with some basic guidance from the folks here, you can get a good feel for the car yourself and make an informed decision. Look for smoke on startup. Pull the dipstik and check the quality of the oil. If it's full and fresh, probably burns oil. If it's full and a bit dirty, probably does not consume too much oil. Does the car drive straight? Does she stop well? Does she accellerate rapidly and smoothly without hesitation? Take a few good turns....how does she handle?

send us a picture of the car. Actually send many pictures. Some people here can spot problems with just a picture of an area sometimes. take as many as you can. You can even include the fat salesman if you want. Hopefully he won't be resistant or resilient.

chris..did you mean to say 'reticent'..not 'recitent'? ;) i myself was actually reticent to belabor these spelling/grammar usage concerns on a monday morning..but too late now! :)
ryan

Thanks bb80sc.. I have been amazed at people's abilities on here to diagnose cars. I would be glad to post pics and what I know about the car for these reasons. Especially since I don't own it yet. I say this because people are so brutal and critical on here which is good for this scenario but bad if I were a guy who say just restored a car or something. I do feel like I am batting a bit out of my leauge on this 87 3.2 model I was actually dead set on getting a SC b/c they are so much more in my price range but I haven’t seen a 3.2 this nice on the east coast since I moved here. If I go with the 3.2 I will not only blow my budget but also go into debt temporarily and probably force my hand to sell my Miata as well. Whereas I could get one of 3 SCs I have lined up and still have a budget to work with for mods, repairs, etc....

Get a sorted SC, they are a great car too!

1. Don't leave them your car - it could be made to be a bailment, but you still don't want to do that.

2. These cars are not rare, so I would find another to look at - esp. from a private owner...

3. Maybe the dealer has a point. See if there is any way you can get him to let your mechanic look at it there or near there. Do you live in an isolated area? If not, then move on as per above. If so, then it is a harder choice. But you could take a vacation to Calif. or something and have one of the well known shops there PPI a car - people do long distance deals on these cars all the time. Whatever you do, don't abscond with the car and drive to your mechanic's place w/o permission. You would face either a civil law suit or the sheriff....

4. Resil... not used properly above. Resistant may be what you want.

Of course. :rolleyes: There's nothing more embarrasing than correcting someone's spelling - incorrectly.
-Chris
reticent reticent reticent reticent reticent reticent reticent reticent

I think the word we're looking for here is "reluctance." Amazing how easily we can take a thread OT.

By the way, what does the winner get when we finally guess what kwm really meant?

Yep this thread is definitely more sideways than an early 930 in a turn on black ice in a summer downpour while driven by the owner's 16 year old son. Anyway, I just talked to one for the 2 fellows who owned the car before it came to this lot. The car grew up in PA. Then moved to VA. The 2nd owner, who I spoke with, only had the car from 90k to the present 120k. He is the owner who had the valve job done. I asked him if the timing chain was done as well and he said no. Which left me thinking what the hell kinda shop pulls the heads off this car at 95k and doesn’t change a $140 timing chain? I didn’t ask the former owner this but is screaming in my head as he told me the work done. Plus during the valve job he also had the flywheel resurface, clutch and throw out bearing changed.....why no timing chain I have no damn idea but once again it is adding to my questions about this car.

No timing chain because, first there are two timing chains, and second 120K miles is nothing on a 911 timing chain. You can't think of a 911 engine like you do other engines. These are multiple row steel chains. Very tough.

yhea but if you are right there at 95k you would not just go ahead and change it? It seems to me it would be like putting a new timing belt on a water pumper car and not going ahead with the water pump change at the same time it is right there and you have that many miles on it. Not to mention if that chain goes your whole engine goes and you just put $5800 into the car for a valve job. Doesn’t factory service manual say it needs to be changed at 100-120k and this shop has a car at 95k and they don’t suggest the change?

And since they had the heads off did they put in a new P&C set? And why didn't they do the rod bearings? Kind of silly of them, they had the engine just sitting there and all..
;)

No doubt, I am also upset that while the clutch was being replaced they didnt also go ahead and rebuild the trans, polish the Fuchs, rebuild the pedal cluster, and make me a turkey pot pie. I may write this shop a harsh letter I do have their address, and I will cc: their congress person as well.

If you want a Turkey Pot Pie you have to buy a Volvo...

:eek:

lol..not even 20 posts yet, but you'll fit right in with this group, kwm..a belated 'welcome' from me. :D good show!
ryan

He was iffy at first, but he is getting the hang of it... LOL

Try this thread: Purchase agreement.

You are getting some good advice here.
Most states have fairly strong consumer law to protect from unscrupulous dealers and unfair practices. Know your rights; they may already be in law.

I can think of all sorts or reasons why a seller wouldn’t want a PPI, particularly off premises. What if the buyer finds something wrong? The seller would rather not know so he can “innocently” sell to someone else. What if the buyer doesn’t pay the mechanic? The seller is now faced with paying to get his car back or face a mechanic’s lien. Figure out his concerns – they are all easily addressable.

A good agreement fairly protects both parties.

Best,
Grady