![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
|
Help needed with spacer....
Attached are two photos of a mess in the works..... Recently I broke a lug nut while trying to remove it.... after checking this board, I resolved to use a 3/4" hole saw to drill out the remaining piece of the nut. I did that, and removed the nut, but in the process I ruined the threads on the stud bolt. In trying to remove the spacer (?), I removed the 5 small bolts that I thought held it on, but after I removed the nuts, nothing happened...THe spacer will not come off and the small bolts have receded into spacer.... What am I doing wrong??? or maybe the Q should be "What am I doing right?" any help appreciated
![]() ![]()
__________________
86 930 Turbo Guards Red / Black |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
No spacer, you are lookling at the front hub. You have to unscrew the center nut and remove the outer wheel bearing to take off the hub. The five small bolts just hold the brake rotor to the hub. Lots of work, but hopefully everything will come off easy - good luck.
__________________
Regards, Guenter 73.5 911T, mod |
||
![]() |
|
Moderator
|
Maybe this will help
the whole rotor hub unit is held on by the axle nut rotor hub unit ![]() Some one has modified yours, the dust cap comes off, under that is the axle nut bare axle ![]() backside of the rotor hub unit ![]()
__________________
Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
||
![]() |
|
undervalued member
|
you will never be able to get the hub back on with the caliper in place. you can not get to the back of the bolts that hold it on to keep them from spinning when you tighten.
this is whats refered to as a con-0-worms. you need to do what buster says, but 1st remove the caliper and swing it off the rotor. take both the rotor and hub off and you can access everything proper.
__________________
78SC PRC Spec911 (sold 12/15) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7I6HCCKrVQ Now gone: 03 996TT/75 slicklid 3.oL carb'd hotrod 15 Rubicon JK/07.5 LMM Duramax 4x/86 Ski Nautique Correct Craft |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Thanks for the quick help everyone..... This is great -- does anyone know the size of the axle nut... I'll probably have to buy a socket to remove it...
__________________
86 930 Turbo Guards Red / Black |
||
![]() |
|
Moderator
|
Yours has obviously been modified but usually all that you would need is a 6mm allen socket
__________________
Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
|
HELP Still having trouble removing the dust cover...... The bolt in the center is very short and has no function that I can see, unless it is just used to cover the threads which (?) may be used to run a longer bolt through to push the cover out ??? any ideas????
__________________
86 930 Turbo Guards Red / Black |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Denver, NC
Posts: 1,391
|
Try a Pipe Wrench or a Large Vice Grip on the Dust cover.
Once around the dust cover wiggle it around until the cover starts to come loose. Do not make the Pipe wrench of V-Grip to tight. The cover will crush easily. Do a serach on removing Dust cover. There may be some other ideas or pictures u can look at.
__________________
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Denver, NC
Posts: 1,391
|
Hmmm looking at your dust cover it does not look like the original,
most stick out quite a bit from the hub so it is easy to grip externally. Not sure what is going on with yours or what the center bolt is there for......
__________________
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
I guess the dust cover was modfied and you can turn in a longer bolt to pull the cover out of the nut. If it works, this would be a clever modification which might be worth doing. Anyone else has experience with this ?
__________________
Regards, Guenter 73.5 911T, mod |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Galivants Ferry, SC
Posts: 10,550
|
I don't get it....the dust cover looks "normal" for a turbo set up...just that it has a bolt installed. Can be bolt be removed? If so, thread in a slide hammer and whack away....
Caution ( ha ha) ..we broke a slide hammer taking these miserable things off. Why Porsche makes them of such heavy gauge and bullet proof is beyond me... Wil
__________________
Wil Ferch 85 Carrera ( gone, but not forgotten ) |
||
![]() |
|
Too big to fail
|
I don't think the 'spacer' comes off separate from the hub
I have some details on removing this stuff @ http://rennlight.com/howto/brakes/front/ ![]()
__________________
"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs Last edited by widebody911; 12-23-2005 at 03:12 PM.. |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Southern Class & Sass
|
Quote:
Do not put another wrench to the car until you get some knid of manual for the car.
__________________
Dixie Bradenton, FL 2013 Camaro ZL1 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
Posts: 9,032
|
I think what we are seeing here is the change in ’81 with
the 3.3 Turbo. The later version rotor bolts directly on the extended hub. It didn’t use the intermediate piece and the hub change negated the use of the wheel spacer. " ![]() © Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche A.G. Yes, you need to remove the two caliper mounting bolts and set the caliper aside. You should pull the clip on the strut that holds the brake hose-pipe so you don’t bend the brake pipe. Some “bailing wire” to the top of the strut works fine. While the Factory wants you to use the slide hammer VW 771, the door hinge tool P290 with threads 12 x 1.5 may also fit. I think the best puller is a modified long bolt with a tapered end to fit the end of the spindle. Your rotor looks very worrn. ![]() ![]() Well, I'll try and post the image later. I would measure the thickness. Spec minimum at wear limit is 30.0 mm. If you have them machined, the Factory limit after machining is 30.6 mm – closer than I would run. If in doubt, get new rotors. I would also check for the proper pads for the rotor. Clearly these pads don’t cover the entire rotor surface. New rotors and new pads go together. Now is a good time to cycle the caliper pistons in their bores. Aerosol silicone lube will help the seals. Inspect everything carefully. Check after some driving for proper function and possible leaks. After 20 years, you should consider new rubber brake hoses (all 4) and a new master cylinder. These are pretty outrageously powerful 911s and your life depends on great brakes. Fitting new rotors to the hub requires some care. The OE iron rotors were painted on the surface that contacts the aluminum hub. Some of this paint can transfer to the hub when you remove the OE rotor. You need to carefully clean that contact surface and apply some corrosion resistant coating between the new iron rotor and the aluminum hub. Search on front wheel bearing service. Now is the time. Before you reattach the caliper, you should adjust the wheel bearings to zero free-play and measure the runout of the new rotor. Porsche spec is 0.05 mm, I would like 0.01 mm runout. Be sure and re-adjust for proper wheel bearing play. As with everything, the devil is in the details. Best, Grady |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
![]() Quote:
__________________
Regards, Guenter 73.5 911T, mod |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Thanks again guys for all the help.... Just where can I get a manual for the 86 Turbo ??? Manuals I have found are for 911s and I dont want to waste my money on a manual that wouldn't pertain to me.
__________________
86 930 Turbo Guards Red / Black |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 14,093
|
Mark 87 930 look here!!!
Quote:
__________________
1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne |
||
![]() |
|