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Exclamation CIS fuel distributer cleanout w/pics

I decided to dismantle my fuel distributer and I couldn't believe what I found! The car was still running but low on power and had a vibration at all rpm's. I'll let you guys be the judge. I've cleaned everything and reasembled but won't be able to run it until my new fuel filter from Pelican arrives tomorrow.




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Old 03-20-2006, 07:46 PM
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One more......
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:48 PM
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What are you going to use to reseal it?
Old 03-20-2006, 07:54 PM
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I may have headed down a slippery slope! as far as I could tell there was no sealer on the surfaces. They are highly polished machine surfaces and the diaphragm(?) is a soft stainless steel.
I cleaned it meticulously and then re-torqed it. Have I overlooked something?

Mark
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:01 PM
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Has anybody heard of a technique or product to reseal these units in case it does leak?
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:21 PM
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Are those the shims and springs all mixed in the glass jar (last picture)? Somebody mentioned they were calibrated... but after so many years and dirt I'm sure they're way off anyway...

My mechanic showed me some little screens (plastic I believe) they were full of oxide parts.. one of the reasons I had to buy a fuel tank :-(

Good luck in your project and please keep taking pictures and post your results..
I believe the FD is like a black box for many CIS owners, your help will definitely help others and will be highly appreciated...
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:40 PM
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The FD is definitely a Pandora's box. Please keep us posted as you continue your quest for a properly working FD.
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Old 03-20-2006, 09:17 PM
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Thanks. I always wondered what those buggers looked like opened up. I am nervous about doing the same thing because its not the issue of cleaning everything up. I believe thats the easy part; its getting to seal correctly thats the challenge. From my research, a rebuilt unit with a one-year warranty runs anywhere from $400 to $1500 depending on who's doing the rebuilding. The Bosch factory rebuilds are the highest.
Please keep us informed of the successes as their are many on this board including me that are wishing you success on this and perhaps passing on the deep dark secrets of sealing the infamous FD!!!

Thanks
Bob
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Old 03-21-2006, 05:24 AM
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Good luck. Did you use gasolene as a cleaning solution? Did you use a torque wrench to retighten the thing?
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Old 03-21-2006, 05:36 AM
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Just wanted to let you know that I will follow up on your questions. I made lots of observations about possible calibration issues and the seals. I have to stop and do a little of what it takes to support this addiction, but will be back this evening with a follow up.

Mark
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Old 03-21-2006, 07:14 AM
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Many years ago, I dismantled a Bosch FD from a 4-cyl Volvo and found that the thin diaphragm had developed a tiny hole.
Bosch would not sell a new diaphragm, so, I carefully cleaned/soldered the hole because I had nothing to lose.
To my surprise, it worked! No sealant used but, there may be a thin sealer for this.
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Old 03-21-2006, 07:38 AM
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Aircraft homebuilders rule!!! (man, I hope it does not leak after saying that!)
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:30 AM
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on the last one i rebuilt, i used 574 loctite and wiped off all but a slight film with a razor blade.
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:40 AM
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you're one brave dude to de-mystify the FD! I was gonna take mine apart too until I read somewhere that each orifice was calibrated or tuned? I wimped out and ended up having it rebuilt to flo more fuel thru imagine auto.

I'm sure you'll be successful!
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:58 AM
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I echo JW's prescription for success. I rebuilt mine and resealed it with Permatex Anaerobic sealant 2 and a 1/2 years ago. No leaks!!!

You need to apply a very thin film to each half of the FD, not the diaphragm.

Dave
Old 03-21-2006, 01:47 PM
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Mark,

I see what looks like rust in some of the pics, which doesn't surprise me, but are those bright spots metal shavings in pic 3?

Also, do you have a pic of the diaphragm?

Keep up the good work.
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Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L '80 SC engine/10.5:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rod ends; Bilstein HDs; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Goodrich G Force Sport Comp 2; PCA/UCR, MID9
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Old 03-21-2006, 03:19 PM
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Ran out of time today to get any real work done. New fuel filter, new plugs and a cat bypass pipe arrived from Pelican this evening.

I was prepared to rely on the machined halves to form a seal but after reading the posts I have decided to take it apart. I will seal it tomorrow using Aviation Form-a-gasket thinned with denatured alcohol or a product called Pliobond thinned with MEK. This technique has worked well on several aircraft applications where gaskets are not used.

I will document this process with some pics that will answer some of the questions about calibration.

Mark

P.S. In answer to one question the shiny particles in this picture are residue and not metal shavings. They were slick like varnish
and absorbed the flash from the camera. Other light spots in the pictures are sawdust which came of some pine blocs I used to protect the machined surfaces while I removed the center flow
divider.
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Old 03-21-2006, 07:57 PM
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I've taken a few apart before turning them in for core.
One guy told me that they used thinned laquer (How do you spell that?)
But that might just be an old mechanic's wife's tale.

I had 3 of them partially apart and took some pictures.
They were: 79 USA, 81-83 USA and 82-83 ROW
This was just after finially finding the ROW FD to get my CIS sorted out.
That one I didn't seperate, but did look at the plunger. They were definately different.

I think besides the plungers, the little disks (With holes in them) are different amoung models.

On the top of the FD there are 6 little caps next to each outlet fitting.
Below those caps are screws which (I think, but I really don't know) have something to do with adjusting the flow to each injector so they all squirt the same amount. I guess you might need some fancy beakers or other test setup to get them flowing precisely even.

Great thread! I hope it takes off, because if you haven't looked inside it really is not any more complicated than a carb.
Time to open up this mystery!

BTW, I herd what I'll call a roumer that there are rebuild kits. I'm digging to find out how to get a parts list and who you have to know to order one.

Keep us posted on the sealer because that is probably 3/4 of the mystery. I bet most could be just taken apart and cleaned and fix 99% of issues.
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:34 PM
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I forgot to ask, how did you get the outter part of the plunger removed from the top half? I didn't get that far because I thought I would break it.
Thanks!
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:37 PM
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At the advise of a fellow 928'er I used Indian Head gasket shellac to seal mine. Rather than coating the entire surface, I used a fine artist brush and just painted "o-rings" around each hole because I was afraid of sealer squeezing into the fuel path. It's been just 2 yrs now and no problems whatsoever.
Old 03-21-2006, 09:42 PM
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