Need some help with SWB vent window air noise

304065 · 04-09-2006, 01:18 PM

Ok, over the winter I completely re-worked the ignition and fuel on my 1966 911. The positive part is that the engine has a second life: the acceleration rate and flexibility are alarming for a 2.0 liter and light years beyond when I bought the car.

One side effect of going so fast is that there is now significant wind noise coming from the vent windows. The rubber seals aren't cracked or broken, but I believe the window is having a difficult time sealing, possibly due to wear on the latch mechanism.

Here is the latch itself. My most sincere apologies in advance for the level of oxidation on these parts, they are "pre-rechroming."

The latch has 40 years of wear. Perhaps it's just the end of the latch that's worn down so that it won't hold the window tightly shut.

The other part of the latch has a funny shape to it.

So I have the following questions:

1. Short of buying a NOS latch (not bloody likely) has anyone been successful in repairing the latch by welding or brazing it up and then grinding and rechroming it? Or how did you fix it?

2. Is the closure supposed to be funny-shaped like that? When the latch is in the center the seal is tighter but not perfect. When it slides beyond (as illustrated) the gap opens up. Someone suggested this "overcenter" feature was to allow positive locking of the window for security purposes, the unlock pin being right there, after all.

3. Is there something inside the latch that wears out? I notice there is a steel roll pin that holds it together. If I drive out the roll pin, are there wear parts inside that can be replaced?

4. What do the equivalent parts look like on the later targas? Are any of the parts interchangeable? I know the '68's had a rubber sleeve on the handle, courtesy of our benevolent DOT, who were evidently concerned that we would impale ourselves on the latch.

Any advice from those who have successfully fought this battle and won. A concours fix is a must, so answers like "JB weld the window shut," while creatively inspired, are of limited value.

TIA for any help on this.

DaveE · 04-09-2006, 01:43 PM

While the rubber seals don't show damage if they are original they have surely flattened over the years. New seals might cure your trouble. You could try to gently bend the tab out too but I would pull the frame and clamp the area where it is probably welded to the frame before I did that. You wouldn't want it to break loose.

atlporsche · 04-10-2006, 03:35 AM

I just live with the whistle....you really can't hear it over the engine noise. plus mine are open most of the time.

your funny shaped piece (the striker, lets call it) looks just like mine, if it's any consolation.

sjd

304065 · 04-12-2006, 05:44 AM

Hmm, I will probably give the new seals a shot. Has anyone taken the latches apart?

bkreigsr · 04-12-2006, 06:06 AM

I know on my 73 that the common post that holds the vent /cranked window extends all the way down to the bottom of the door.
if you play with the adjustment nut on the bottom of the door, that will offer some inward /outward movement and bring the top of the post in more towards with the rubber seal

but like sjd said, I've taken to tuning out the whistle & enjoying the motor.

good luck
Bill K

304065 · 04-13-2006, 09:10 AM

That's a good idea, Bill. I suppose once I get the new seals in place I can use that to adjust the fit.

Fleming · 04-13-2006, 01:06 PM

John,
before you modify the metal latch try a plastic or cardboard shim between the latch and it's catch, something like a 1/32", to add more tension to the window fit.
_______

To find the source of the wind noise - cover the joint from window to rubber with many 1" long pieces of tape and go for a drive. Remove a section of the tape at a time working around the perimeter until the noise is isolated.

It could be the door seal, too. The parts book shows auxillary sections of the outer door seal for the wind noise in this area.

You can check the tightness of your seals by closeing the door with pieces of paper (about the size of a dollar bill) around the seal areas (works for both door or trunk seal). Tug on the paper to see if the seal is compressed. When you find a spot where the joint is loose the paper will slide out with no resistence.

If nothing seems to work replace with fresh seals. International Mercantile seems to have original profile for this vintage.

At speed the top of my 1965 window frames sucks out and it's quite noisy....just an old car. It makes driving 75mph seem like just under warp speed.

Bob

Series900 · 04-14-2006, 03:42 AM

old seals, John were talking 40 year old compressed seals! Targas, now there is a friggin wind noise challenge! This is all 40 year old technology, not present day standards, and yes new cars are tight, and after 40 years they will whistle too. Did I say 40 years, replace em, and the early brass frames could probably use an adjust and new seals too. Although the solid door seal is NLA, you will get a hollow late model version. to help in tight door frame seal/mating there is a rubber block added to the midle of the roof, forget what year that started. And those vent handles will come apart for rechroming, tap out the roll pin.