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the 930s had a scavange pump that ran off the back of the left cam.

the cover is thick enough just to drill and tap it. The key is getting the tubocharger as HIGH as you can and tapping as LOW as you can. use as big of a line as practical..

Ive seen a few kits that run a line to the sump drain... and the scavange pump sucks the oil out.. but if you even caught a rock... went off track ext... you could rip it off..

take a picture of your cover and ill put an X on where you should drill\tap it

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Old 08-03-2006, 06:20 PM
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I would be interested in that as well the pic
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Old 08-03-2006, 06:34 PM
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Pat the 930s used a cam driven scavenge pump. I had to adapt one to my engine to get the oil from the turbo in the back of the 914 to pump back to the oil tank. Gravity will do the job for you.
All you need to do is drill and tap for a pipe fitting into the the chain cover ive seen some chain covers with a plug there. Here's the templet. Let me know if you need a manual.
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Old 08-03-2006, 06:36 PM
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Thanks, David and Nick (nice to see all of the PO's chime in LOL).
I'll drill and tap the cover in the morning. Actually, there is almost enough room for a bulkhead fitting there.

Although I have considered running the line back to the sump plate. It certainly could get damaged, as Nick says, but it likely would work pretty well.

Pat
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Old 08-03-2006, 06:47 PM
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Well, I just sucked it up and drilled and tapped it 3/8 NPT, with an AN8 end. I'll have a line made on Monday. I may epoxy it in when I decide it's the right fitting to have there.
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Old 08-05-2006, 06:39 PM
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Looks good, I wouldnt bother with the epoxy, that fittings not going to leak or loosen. Ive never had a problem with mine. You could always screw it in all the way and grind down whats sticking out on the backside if its interfering with anything.
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Old 08-05-2006, 08:41 PM
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I think by tomorrow night, I'll be ready to load it onto the Radio Flyer and drag it out to the garage.

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Old 08-06-2006, 06:42 PM
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Great work, keep it up your almost done. Your SC is going to get its first BJ soon.
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Old 08-06-2006, 07:59 PM
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Well, the engine is together, in the garage. I am flying around like a maniac to get this done. I have a few questions for the great minds of turbo science:

I cleaned the turbo out. I think it's all good now. How difficult should it be to spin the compressor blades? Mine will turn with light finger pressure. I think it's ok, but I haven't touched a turbo for 25 years, so I don't remember.

I have a touch of interference on the turbine housing to the engine mount crossbar. I am either going to hit it with my griner, or put in the bar from a 72T I have lying around. I don't mind grinding up the 72T bar a bit. The old bar does not have threaded ends like the SC does. Is it ok to just put a nut on the end of the engine mount bolt, or should I weld the nut to the crossbar?

Lunch is now over...back to work. I'llhave progress pix and more questions in a bit.

Thanks to all

Pat
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:06 AM
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It should spin freely. Does it keep turning when you spin it? It needs to spin for at least 2-5 seconds.
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:27 AM
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2-5 seconds by itself
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:28 AM
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Pat, I like your clean J pipe, did you weld it up?
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:29 AM
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J-pipe was welded up by PO. I need to refab another over the winter for better wastegate discharge.

The blades will not spin freely (freewheel). If I push 80 PSI compressed air through the turbo inlet volute, it will spin. I should have thought of this months ago, instaed of waiting til the last minute. ARRGH!
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:32 AM
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What kind of turbo is it? Rajay?
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:52 AM
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I have never owned a turbocharger that will spin for 2-5 seconds by itself and i have had several of them. Maybe if it has ceramic ball bearings it will, but I've never had one of those.
All the turbos i have played with stopped almost immediately when I stopped spinning them by hand.
If you spin it by hand and do not feel any rubbing or binding, it is fine. It should have a very small, almost unperceptable end play and a very slight radial movement.
Old 08-12-2006, 11:05 AM
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Well I'm no expert either, but the last one I put on my car had only slight play and it did spin free. It was k24 and worked well when I installed it. Actually, the k26 was very similar. It really shouldn't take much finger pressure to turn it at all. Maybe it has some old oil that is sticky? If thats the case, it will get better I assume.
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Old 08-12-2006, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by sammyg2
I have never owned a turbocharger that will spin for 2-5 seconds by itself and i have had several of them. Maybe if it has ceramic ball bearings it will, but I've never had one of those.
All the turbos i have played with stopped almost immediately when I stopped spinning them by hand.
If you spin it by hand and do not feel any rubbing or binding, it is fine. It should have a very small, almost unperceptable end play and a very slight radial movement.
That is correct. I have one that is a standard cartridge that will not spin freely 2.5 seconds and then I have one with ceramic ballbearings that one spins 2-5 seconds freely
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Old 08-12-2006, 12:26 PM
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oh and both are brand new
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Old 08-12-2006, 12:27 PM
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Ben, are you going to use the BB turbo?
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Old 08-12-2006, 12:37 PM
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Here's something else I learned today. You can mix the #2 and #5 intake runners on the CIS and they fit perfectly! Just can't bolt up the AAV and the WUR. ARRRRGHHH!!

Oh, my turbo is a Rajay T04B, still with the BAE sticker on it. Not the BB type.

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Old 08-12-2006, 02:06 PM
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