Questions on CV boots replacement.

[rnln]

Got under the car this morning and found that I still need several tools and parts beside the cv boot kit from Pelican. Took off and got some tools, found that I don't have any Schnoor washers ahhhh, another week or 2 drving with torn boots to order the Schnoor washers? Maybe I can find some at an auto part store? Can some one tell me what size I need, and how many?

Also several more question.. I am reading several instruction and still not clear. When I got under the car, I can see clearly several bolts on on the inner side (the transmission) but there is no bolts on the outter side (the wheel side). How can I take the axcle off without seeing any bolts? Look at this pic, below. Mine look the same as this pic. You can see there is no bolts at all.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads5/MVC+009S1117161290.jpg

Is it correct that I don't need to do anything on the wheel-side beside taking off the axcle big nut? This biggo one, on the center..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads5/MVC+019S1117331631.jpg

Also,
rcecale mentioned using the hydraulic press to press the axles aprt. Must I have the press to replace my CV boot? I don't want to take everything apart and realize that I have to put everything back because I don't have a press.

Another question:
When puting things back, what is the torque on:
- the lower shock bolt?
- the axcle nut?
- I know I need 63 lbs on the cv bolts (to the transmission side)

Thanks guys

[Jeff Alton]

If you take the inside joint off (against the trans) you can then remove the outside boot by sliding it down the axle shaft and off the end. No need to remove the axle. But fitting the band clamp can be tough.....

Also, Shnoor washers were not installed at the factory..........
But that is a "whole nother" debate.........

Cheers

[rnln]

Catca,
thanks for response. I do have couple more questions.

Do I need a Press to remove the inner actual join?
If in case I need to remove the bottom shock bolt, what is the torque when reinstall?
I know my CV bolts are the Alen 8mm. Is it 35lbs or 63lbs torque?

Thanks.

[KCinBR]

I recently replaced my cv boots and also helped CareraDan replace his also.

I guess you could do it without completly removing the axels but I think it's a good idea to clean out the CV joint to remove any dirt before re-packing (with new grease) and replacing the boots. To do it right you should remove the axels. It's only oone more nut and really no problem.

You should not need a press to remove the inner cv joint, maybe a rubber hammer will do. Like I say I've dont it twice and did not need a press.

[Alan.UK]

Take the CV apart and repack them while you are there. It's straight forward and worth doing while you are there. It will also be lot easier if you remove the axel as KC says.






Alan

[afterburn 549]

do your self a favor and index the inner part with the outer part..dont worry a bout the balls.....save you a couple days of frustration

[rnln]

First, let me say thanks to everyone for replying.

Alan,UK
What do you mean mby repack them? Meaning taking everything apart to clean them up and reinstall them so that they refit well?

I still couldn't start on this because some simple problems, and I still don't know for sure if it's any real problem.
Saturday I got under the car and found that I don't have the needed alen key socket, I do have the L shape one but that won't work on this kind of torque. Beside, I can't give it the correct torque when reinstall. So, pack everything up and ran to several autopart stores. Finally, I got a bunch of tools while I was there, more than 1/2 day passed. At night, sitting here reading some more post about CV join/boot and axcle.. and found that I need schnoor locking washers. Sunday morning, I was on the way to find some schnoor washers. I was at Pepboys, then Autozone, then several other small autopart stores but came home with empty hands.
Still I have doubt that I MUST have the schnoor washers. Can other locking washers, as below, work? I am frustrated because this is a simple "problem", while my boots are all torn bad. Anyone has any opinion on any other kind of locking washer?

Also, do I have to remove the bottom shock bolt? If I do, anyone know the torque on it?

Thanks.

[afterburn 549]

what I would do ....pull your axles out (if you are going to repack the joints) order the washers hot freight and they will be here by the time you are done.............in 20 20 hind sight when I got mine apart the ware was so bad where the balls fit into their little homes I should have just replaced everything....next year now....but the pt is why all the trouble when grease will not heel it...........like in the above pic I think I can see ball tracks in that one too....how ever mabe yours will be better

[Alan.UK]

Hi,

To take the balls out is straight forward, also all used CV joints will show some wear as there is friction between the two materials but there is a fine line between wear and tracks being formed. Once tracks form the CV is in effect loose. I took my apart to inspect them and then re-pack them with fresh grease.

To remove the centre section simply push the race, so two opposing pairs of balls are pushed out of the CV joint. Remove the balls and then pull the race out. If the CV joint is worn when you put them back together they will only work in the original position. When fitted they should move relatively freely but if worn and fitted in a different position the tracks will prevent the balls from moving.

Alan

[Gunter]

rnln: Since you are a DIY, it's high time to get the Bentley Repair Manual, you'll love it.
Lot's of info there with pictures and torque values.
I suggest you tackle future jobs by first getting the details/info before you take things apart; that way you don't get stuck.
Love the Bentley.
When doing CV's, you only want to do it one way: The right way.
Dismantle, clean, inspect, repack with Moly. If worn badly, get new ones.
If all the info on this board tells you: Schnorr washers!, why would you want to use something else?
Get the info, tools, parts, before starting the job to avoid frustration.
Friendly greetings.

[Navaros911]

The info here is all good... for every CV joint you take off, clean and repack if not worn, otherwise replace.

Get new seals as well, I don't know if they are needed, but they are not expensive...

You don't need to clean/repack them all at once, but if you're in there and you have time, go at it... I believe they are easy to get to (on my 1977, the carreras may be different), so if you don't do them now you can always to them later. At least to the ones you are taking off.

No need for a press.

Don't know about the carrera's CV joints much, but the joint may be part of the axle (the side that isn't showing any bolts) and you need to replace the entire axle if the CV needs replacing (I remember reading on this for the carreras, but I'm no expert on this). Something in 101 Projects is referring to this if I'm correct.

I used Nord lock locking washers under my bolts to prevent them from comming loose (and you never want them to come loose!!). They work fantastically but are expensive... good they can be reused.

When putting on the new boot, make sure you have someone around to help put the metal locking band on... you will need both hands to keep the rubber boot on the metal piece (is it called a flange?) that the old boot was attached to. The second person just needs to put it around the new boot and tighten the screw.

I can't remember the torque, but it is quite a lot for these little allen bolts I think (the nordlock washers needed 10% more torque for tightening as they provide more resistance).

Another tip, put in NEW high quality bolts that don't strip too easily.

Good luck,
Michiel

[Navaros911]

Oh yeah... don't think you need to remove the shock bolt... what I do is lift the trailing arm a bit with a jack so the axle can move a bit from side to side. This way you know there is no tension on it.

- Michiel

[rnln]

Thanks all so much. Don't know if I can do this without you guys. THANKS.

I decided to put this task on hold untill I can get the conical washers. I don't beleive only internet is the source, also there are many other task I can do now. let's do the belts first. How many conical washer do I need for all 4 CV boots?

[9dreizig]

ok guys, what do you use to clean all the old grease up with ?? some sort of solvent??

[rnln]

I read that you can use brake cleaner after wipe out most of the grease.

[randywebb]

nothing- just wipe all the gr4ease off

[KCinBR]

For cleaning I used a pan/container with Kerosene and a paint brush, then finished it off with brake cleaner and compressed air.
You gonna get messy for sure

[rnln]

Guys,
talking about torque spec on those bolts, the more I search, the more info on different opinions. I can read for months on this topic and still can't tell what spec is correct.

I am still confused between 32lbs or 63lbs of either 8mm bolts or 10mm bolts. There are several people saying Benley book is wrong. Both 8mm and 10mm should be 32lbs, except turbo is 63lbs. Some said the size of the bolt base on the cap size (the alen key size). Some said it base of the actual thread size of the bolt.

What is the true here? There must be some one know the true.

[Navaros911]

Originally posted by KCinBR
For cleaning I used a pan/container with Kerosene and a paint brush, then finished it off with brake cleaner and compressed air.
You gonna get messy for sure

Same here...

[randywebb]

the truth is in the Tech. Spec. booklets & the factory manuals.

59 ft-lbs. for the M10 bolts and bes ure they are clean and that the female threads in the CV or trans. flange are clean - no grease allowed. Use new Schnoor washers & use moon plates.