Short shift install today - some issues to work out.

[jed]

Hi! I attempted to install new bushings and a factory short shift kit in my father's '73 911t today (partially for father's day -partially for his generous loan of the car to me for a few weeks). Anyhow, I ran into a couple of issues on the way and could use some pointers.

#1: this is the old style shifter without the lock-nut at the front of the shift housing, it has instead a roll pin on both the front and the back securing the shift pivot housing ("fork" in the attached picture). This new shift pivot housing was, however a good 1cm or more shorter than the existing one - and the new short shifter would not fit through the old pivot housing. I put it back together, but there is a lot of fore and aft play as the housing slides back and forth on the roll pins. Neither of the tech articles here mention this, and as I was already stuck by problem #2 I tried to move on.

#2: The new pivot pin required an act of god to drive through the new pivot housing and shift lever. Given that there wasn't anything substantial holding it in place, driving this through was a challenge. Again the tech articles indicate that this should go in without trouble, and the old one had come out fairly easily. I did manage to get it most of the way though - but I can't conceive how it would ever come out - hence why I was stuck up at the 1st question. Unfortunately it also happened that the groove for the 2nd locking clip never peeked out the other side. I was able to get the clip on the shorter side of the pin, but it was in as far as it could go, and yet that 2nd groove hasn't become visible yet. Methinks going without that clip can't be good.

Anyhow, I don't think I'm normally this incompetent with repairs - I do most of my own work on my Audi. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer - I'd love to get this back in great shape for my dad!

[dentist90]

Maybe if you could get your hands on a later model shift housing with the front locknut??

[jed]

I've thought of that, however I find it unlikely that I'm the first person on this board to run into this problem, unless I got some parts not made quite to spec. Truthfully, I'm less worried about the play in the pivot housing than the fact that the groove on the pivot pin isn't in the right spot to get the second lock ring on.

[911pcars]

Your first problem; the pivot pin is partially seized in the fork (pivot housing).

Remove the roll pins on either end of the shift lever fork. Drive them inwards with a suitably-sized pin punch or equivalent. The fork will separate from the the housing along with your shift lever, pivot pin and whatever spacers on either end of the fork. Then it's a simpler matter of using a drift punch to encourage the pin to exit the fork and shift lever. Find out why this new pin doesn't slide through - maybe a burr. During assembly, the fork and shift lever have to be aligned, otherwise the pin won't make too much progress. I suggest using a tapered drift punch to help align the pieces before installing the pin.

Also verify you have the correct pieces in your SS kit. The fork included in the factory short shift kit has a higher pivot point than the existing one (see FSS photo).



"This new shift pivot housing was, however a good 1cm or more shorter than the existing one - and the new short shifter would not fit through the old pivot housing. I put it back together, but there is a lot of fore and aft play as the housing slides back and forth on the roll pins.'

Use M8 flat washers and/or thin spacers on both ends of the fork to take up excessive play between fork and housing. Admittedly, the threaded pivot pin on '77-on shift housings make this adjustment more convenient, but not enough difference, IMHO, to change housings. In any case, there should be spacers installed to provide a bearing surface for lube.

There's an interference fit between the shift lever and the fork - about 0.020-0.025". The sides of the fork are contoured to provide tension on the lever, but I find this creates too much friction. I prefer removing material from the lever OD to provide about 0.010" interference. Even normal assembly requires the shift lever to be driven into the fork with a mallet rap.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood
more details here

[jed]

Wow. Thanks for all the insight! I'll be pulling it back apart tonight and going over it again. The pivot pin wasn't tight like it had a burr, it was tight as in it was slightly oversized for the holes in the fork and the shift lever. Even getting it started was a difficulty, as it did not want to go in at ALL. I do believe I have all the correct pieces - I compared the stock and short shift levers to pictures I found here on this site and they appear to be the correct parts. Thanks again.

[dentist90]

I found my pivot pin went in better on the bench during practice run, but when I had to install it through the fork and lever it bound up more. Alignment is crucial.