First clutch replacement

[slodave]

Hi!

I started to take the step to drop my engine yesterday in order to replace my clutch. I have done a number of searches to try and find pics and other details to make this easier for me, but really have not found what I am looking for. Most of the electrical has been disconnected (yes, negative is disconnected from battery) and a couple of hoses. Most on this board seem to want to drop both the engine and tranny - which is fine by me, but I can't figure out how/where to balance both on the floor jack I have. I saw the part that Pelican offers, but I can't afford to spend the money. Any suggestions? Also, there is the hard line at the lower right rear of the engine. I need to replace the soft line and it does not want to budge. Can I remove the other end of the soft line and then disconnect it from the Hard line after the engine is out? Would make it easier for me. I will take pictures when things get exciting, but for now check out my new friend I found in the hanger.



Thank you in advance!!!



Dave

EDIT: Anybody have some spare time 7/22-23/07 (Saturday and Sunday)? I could really use the help. PM me, as my spam filter eats a lot of email these days.

Thanks again!!!

[rallyracer]

i used an adjustable wrench on the hard line to hold it still and our host's oil line wrench on the soft line, with a metal tube extension on the handle to break it loose. tight indeed. i doubt disconnecting the other end will be any easier.

also, i use an ATV jack under the engine and a jackstand under the tranny. then i wiggle off the tranny and set in on the floor.

i'm dropping mine today for a clutch, tensioner update and elephant racing oil lines.
david

[slodave]

Originally posted by rallyracer
i used an adjustable wrench on the hard line to hold it still and our host's oil line wrench on the soft line, with a metal tube extension on the handle to break it loose. tight indeed. i doubt disconnecting the other end will be any easier.

also, i use an ATV jack under the engine and a jackstand under the tranny. then i wiggle off the tranny and set in on the floor.

i'm dropping mine today for a clutch, tensioner update and elephant racing oil lines.
david

Good luck with your job! I know a lot of people use an ATV jack, but I was hoping to save a few dollars. I will tackle the hose at the hard line. I will try pipe wrenches. Maybe they will give a bit more leverage. I did spray pb blaster on it yesterday. I hope that helps a little.

Dave

[2.7RACER]

Dave,
Lots of folks use a floor jack. The motor and trans do get a little "tippy".
Best to have two people. You may need a second jack to get the car up high enough to remove the motor. Or you can remove the rear valence and maybe the bumper.
Chalk the front tires. Both fore and aft.
Oil will come out of the lines forever, I use the caps and lots of rags.
If you think you may pull your motor more than once the ATV jack is worth the money.

[Early_S_Man]

Dave,

If you happen to have or can get a piece of 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 lumber 20" - 24" long ... position it about 1/3 under the transaxle and 2/3 under the engine. The balance point for combined engine and transaxle will be about 4" - 5" behind the parting line between engine and transaxle. If you put the saddle of the floor jack between parting line and engine drain plug ....that will be good enough.

Good luck!

[rburn]

what ever you do be EXTREMELY careful with the shifter rod and sticks through the body.... bend this and ouch.

I used the two paddles from the host and two floor jacks. You have to get it really high. I used one floor jack with a 2x6 and you have to find the balance spot as Early_S_Man points out.

Coming down is not too bad. I also bought a $15 dolly from harbor freight to place it on to roll it out.

Goin back up is another story. I think i got lucky as it went up and in easily as I was dreading this, i kept a close eye on the trans shift rod sticking out.... I think If i do it again I might buy the engine cradle that the host sells, not cheap but it could be well worth it if there is a mishap

Good luck,

[slodave]

Thanks for the replies! Will grab a piece of 2x10(12) from my parents house. I was able to get the soft line from the right rear undone - whew. My jack stands are not even close to getting the rear high enough off of the ground. I just bought a pair of 6 ton stands from Sears that'll go up to 24". I think this should be enough. I actually have the front of the car on stands as all of the good chalks that are around the hanger are being used.

I really don't have anybody else that can help at the moment - Anybody up for a few beers and some nice hot weather? Call my cell number...

Thanks for all the help! Hoses and electrical are done, now for the tranny stuff... I really hope I can get the engine and tranny out by this evening.

Dave

[slodave]

Well, engine and tranny are still in the car. I am disappointed. I was hoping to get them out and get the flywheel to a shop if needed. Now I only have two weekends to get this done. I have one fuel line, the throttle ball link (I cannot get this off without bending the metal it is attached to) and starter wires. I think after that, that it is ready to drop. Anybody have time next Saturday to help me out? I could sure use it!!!

I do have some pics to post of some problems areas that maybe someone could chime in about. I will post those a little later.

Thanks!!!

Dave

[Huh]

can anyone post pics of their rig to drop the motor? I have a motorcycle jack so I am sure I am fine but I think I want to try a motor drop this winter to fix some oil leaks.

[slodave]

Here are a few pics from today.

Up in the air. Not sure if there is enough room to get the engine out though. Yes, I did manage to spill some oil.


This hose was very brittle and broke off the unit pictured.


This oil line has been crused like this for years. Temps are ok, but I think that the pressure is up a bit. I really don't want to replace it right now. The jack stand is not holding anything up. It is there for redundancy.


I should be in this picture, but I could not get the engine out this weekend

[Huh]

I have been told that a truck jack and truck jack stands are a must if you drop the motor. It gives like 36" of ground clearance.

[azasadny]

I used an ATV jack from Sears when I dropped my engine/tranny and a piece of 2' x 3' plywood under the engine helps. The Craftsman ATV /motorcycle jack doesn't get quite high enough, so I had to remove the rear valence and bumper. Go slow and take pics and label the connections. Be careful!

[Gunter]

Seal off the ends of the oil/fuel lines with balloons, works great.
Disconnect the cruise control cable.
Why is the front on stands instead of just on the wheels?
I would leave it on the front wheels and get high jack stands to avoid taking the bumper off.
Remove the muffler before the drop.
Push the input shaft of the transmission all the way in.
If your jack doesn't have a high lift, you may have to go in stages by using additional pieces of 4x4 and/or 6x6 for support.
Safety is the word: to hold the car up high, and keep the engine/transmission from falling.

[450knotOffice]

Awww, sorry Dave. It would've been nice to see you standing in the empty engine bay. Keep your chin up and best of luck.

[rburn]

As far as the hoses go you'll want to check all of them. replace shorten past the cracked part if needed. You might be high enough since you don't have all that motronic stuff and airbox like I did. I had to have mine up 34" from the ground to the rear valence.

I used like 4x12's to get the height i needed under my jack stands.

You should be able to reach in for the fuel line. it's very tight fit in there.

I hope you marked all the stuff or have a good memory.

When you start to drop the motor look around for any wires you might have missed.

[slodave]

I am going to take the front stands out this week. I now realize how many precious inches I can get if the front is on the ground. The new jack stands are 5 tons and go up to about 24 1/2". I think this should be enough to get the rear to about 30" or so. I dread the thought of replacing hoses. They were fine until I touched them (they are old, yes).

Thank you for all of the ideas and encouragement so far. I will prevail, but I dislike falling behind schedule.

I will update with pics when I can. I have some nifty oil leaks and once the engine is out I can take better pics and hope you guys can give me an assessment.

Any thoughts on the crimped oil line? The car seems to run fine with it in this condition. Beeen that way for 10+ years.

Dave

[2.7RACER]

These are pictures of my ATV jack with a 5/8th 2x3ft plywood.
Note the 2x4 to lift the trans nose up for insertion into the tunnel.
It is very easy to handle removal and installation for one old man.

[slodave]

I stripped the head of the last left inner cv bolt tonight. I am not happy. Any simple ideas to get it off now? How about grind two flat sides on the outside and hope a crescent wrench works? I did get the other fuel line off. Throttle linkage ball joint won't come off.

I did remove the bar in up front that protects the non-existent A/C radiator.

I'm tired and pissed . Any ideas would greatly be appreciated. Thanks!!!

Dave

EDIT: OK, found the thread the Hugh R started on the same CV bolt issue.

[slodave]

Finally.. CV bolts are out. I had two on the inner left side that were a problem. I ended up buying another 6mm hex socket and it helped. Even though the bolts are clean, I managed to leave enough gunk that the hex would not seat all the way in.

The right bolt is stripped half way down. I was able to get the hex in there enough with a little tapping on the wrench and was able to get it to grap and turn. Maybe I can still use these


JK, I plan on ordering 12 new ones from our host.

Other than three wires, the engine and tranny are ready to drop.



Dave

[450knotOffice]

Good work Dave!