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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 36
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Uggg, I have a 1977 911S that has been sitting for 4 years. it was completely taken apart for a new paint job and the owner lost interest. I bought it and reassembled it over the past 6 months and now that it's together, all kinds of problems started. The car ran a little rough when we first started it but it started running smooth after letting it idle about 20 minutes a night over the course of a week.
My sister in law delivered the car to me in Seattle and she had a great trip and the car ran great. Little did she know that all of the oil leaked out of the transmission on the way over and it died the next day. I bought a used transmission and had it rebuilt in Seattle ($2750 later) it works great but when I got the car back there was an oil leak from the oil cooler that drips onto the heat exchanger, and a leak in the gas tank. I can deal with the oil leak and I bought a used gas tank(it's not in yet) but now the car will barely run. Please note that I have never driven this car, it ran fine before the transmission failed now it starts but sputters and it barley responds to the throttle and it seams to shake a lot more then usual. What could have happened between now and then? It's interesting to note that I can't really get it past 3000 rpms. The only thing I can think of is the fuel injector being messed up but I don't know what the symptoms of that is. OK, now the big question, do I take it to a 3rd mechanic to address the engine problem or do I cut bait and part it out. I already planned on selling it as I bought a house last week and I bought the car for $5K and I already have $12K in it and it's not worth that running... Here is the good stuff, the car is in really good condition for the age, it looks great, it has the rebuild transmission, it's Completely rust free and it has strait body, it has 15 inch Fuch's and good H1's with no corrosion, and a laundry list of new parts, and seals, ect. What to do? P.S. If there is anyone in the Portland area that wants to have a beer and talk about our cars let me know (especially if you are a mechanic) :-) Before: [img]After: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads8/IMG_14051155764135.jpg[/img] ![]()
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Location: L.A.
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19 years and 17k posts...
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I'm in a similar situation with my car. I replaced the engine this summer and I still cannot drive it. I either need to replaced the CIS with carbs (Zenith) or sell it like it is and take a huge loss. The car is straight and rust-free but I cannot trust it to drive since the CIS is possessed by Satan himself... Do you have a good Porsche mechanic near you that can look at the car? What about John Walker's Workshop in Seattle?
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Art Zasadny 1974 Porsche 911 Targa "Helga" (Sold, back home in Germany) Learning the bass guitar Driving Ford company cars now... www.ford.com |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 36
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I don't think selling it in it's current status makes sense, the loss would be too great.
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: LA, CA.
Posts: 416
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I would get it going and back on the road again. Don't let it die a lonely death.
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
Posts: 9,032
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This is unfortunately not all that uncommon situation. “For only a few dollars more I can have my great Porsche running.” After a few more and more you are in your current situation.
There are three choices: Sell it as is. Part it out. Fix everything necessary. Fixing everything only is possible if you are in love with your 911 and don’t mind spending 4+ times what it will be worth. You are only at the beginning of that progression. Next you may find a compression leak from a pulled head stud. Down the engine path you go. Even DIY it is VERY expensive to do it right. Do you then buy a used 3.0 with unknown problems? Do you step up and install a 3.2? No matter what you do you get back only a few cents on each dollar spent. You probably will realize the most money by parting it out. That is a lot of time, work, storage and hassle. I would first test the waters offering it as is. You will have to make the tough decision of how much under your investment you are going to ask. Even at $10K you probably won’t attract anyone. Sorry to see this. Last fall I was offered something similar. An ’81 SC, original paint, 115K, S/R, full leather, 7&8 Fuchs and more. A nice car. It needed a complete engine rebuild with P&Cs (broken head stud, smoking Alusils and botched repair), a clutch, the virgin 915 needed work, rusted heat exchangers, pads & rotors and lots of “little” things. After studying it I declined. Even DIY, to do it right I would have $15K+ in a $12K car if it were free. Of course it wasn’t free. There are some cars that even if free are uneconomical to repair correctly. What happens to them? They get “fixed” and show up at the used car auctions. This is why a PPI is so important. Best, Grady
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ANSWER PRICE LIST (as seen in someone's shop) Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 36
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Selling it as it is actually looks good to me today, If I could get $9K I'd do it.
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Friend of Warren
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 16,497
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Kurt V No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles. |
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Back in New England!
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This may not seem right, but you maybe able to donate it and recieve a larger tax deduction than you would by selling it.
Just a thought.
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'78 RoW 911SC Targa converted to a '86-like 3.2L Cab (w/930 body & No A/C) Custom subframe integrated into AutoPower Half Cage, Euro Ride Height, Turbo Tie-Rods, WeltMeister Bump Steer Kit, Sway-Away 26mm Rear Torsion Bars, Koni Adjustable Shocks and Strut Inserts, Two Bar Rennline Strut Tower Brace, Poly Motor Mounts, WEVO Trans Mounts, Modified Conical K&N Intake, ER PB A-arm bushings and 17" CUP3 Wheels. Steve Wong Chip! |
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Warren Hall Student
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Question.
Was the old gas tank cleaned out before being put into service? It's quite possible that this is where your problems are coming from. Saying you can't get past 3000RPM leads me in this direction because that sounds like fuel starvation to me. i.e. clogged fuel filter The scenerio you described of letting the car idle each night for a week and it gets better sounds like old gas (varnish) being cleared out. Then you start driving and the performance goes downhill sounds like debris sloshing around in the tank and entering into the fuel delivery sytem. 1. Check the screen in the gas tank. 2. Remove the fuel filter and cut it open and examine it. Be careful though and wear the appropriate gloves and ventilator. Gasoline is bad stuff when it gets on your skin or you inhale. This won't cost you anything but a new filter. If this turns out to be where the problem is hopefully the debris didn't get past the filter.
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Bobby _____In memoriam_____ Warren Hall 1950 - 2008 _____"Early_S_Man"_____ Last edited by Bobboloo; 08-17-2006 at 01:38 PM.. |
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