I just did this on my '88 with the same thread.
I reused the nut and washer as it didn;t appear to be a one use nut.
Those new ones you have look like knuckle death. The faces are so small that at 340 lbs I fear the socket slipping off and "somebody gonna get a hurt'in" Russel Peters.

Awesome thread.

Ran into this odd situation ordering part...
About to remove & replace LH axle assembly, on my 1985 (M491 Turbo-Look) due to torn boot.

I have the castellated axle nut, which i take to be the smaller M20,
and the attaching bolts on the trans side are 8mm (as opposed to M10 on some).

Great.
Except, the Pelican parts listing for those specs above, states:
"Note: Only for cars with type 915.68 Transmission (8 mm axle joint bolts). "
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0807/POR_0807_SUSAXL_pg1_axle-shaft-assemblies.htm?highlight_part=923-332-033-02-M60

So i check, and my Porsche CoA states that the car has, "Gearbox-Type: G91573"
NOT 915.68?

The 915.73 trans would seem to indicate the larger bolts.
But a 10mm wrench wont fit on mine.

Soooo,

1./ Im assuming i order by the right sized bolts, & ignore the trans # discrepancy??
Whats the proper part no.?

2./ If i understand correctly, i can leave the hub on, correct?
(The M491 has some 930 parts but doesnt seem to affect 3.2 axle change.)

3./ Its been stated here that i have to release the lower shock bolt, Yes?
(by eye it looks like it might clear ?? :) )

From the Bentley Manual.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649691144.jpg

Great thread — I noticed a ton of grease slung from a torn inner axle bolt on the passenger side iof my 1988 M491 G50 car.
Learned a lot from this thread but have a few questions:
1) are new bolts required or can the old be reused? Someone mentioned 60 ft lbs on these M10 bolts — js that correct?
2) no sealant under the cap, not even a thin smear? I hesitate to not reseal this but maybe it will make sense once I have it apart.
3) if I only have a torn inner boot which happened very recently, could I just disconnect the inner side of the axle at the transmission and replace the boot without fully removing the axle? I have access to a lift to do the work.
…or if I’m in there replacing one, should I just go ahead and replace both regardless?

Thanks! Want to fix this one soon so I can keep enjoying the new ride :).

1) I have reused the bolts. 60ft-lbs sounds right. There are a bunch of threads here about these fasteners coming loose. Schnoor washers are what most guys use. You just want to try and keep grease from getting on the threads.

2) Not sure what you mean here. There is a metal cap on the end of the joint that keeps the grease in and dirt out. There is nothing to seal. It just taps onto the end. To get it off you'll probably need to tap it off but it's just friction.

3) Correct - no need to take off the entire axle. I did this job with the car on jack stands. It'll be way easier for you with a lift. Up to you whether you choose to do both but if you want to do the outer one it's a lot more work as you will have to remove the axle. The outer one is a pain because you have to slide it on from the inner side.

Resurrecting a great thread ----

Discovered I have a torn inner boot on the passenger side - decided I was going to do all 4 boots while I was at it - but am rethinking this now...

I got the axle out of the car - and got the end cap off the inner joint and got the clip off, but I cannot get the joint off the axle... every where I look it seems folks just popped it off ... it will not come off ... I don't want to bang it too hard , don't want to break it..

I can't get the inner tin off either - seems like that would make it easier to get a hammer in there to bang on it.. (I was using a long extension) - no budge...

Any advice on getting that joint off the axle?

Exact same issue happened to me when I did the four boots on my 88, the joint wouldn't come off the axle. Here is what I did.
Put the axle in a vice, use a punch and hammer on the inner race from inside out. A couple of wack and the joint will come off easy. Have some rags and cardboard underneath to receive it as it will drop without notice.

As for the inner tin, hold the CV in a vice and use a small sharp chisel or wide blade screwdriver to hammer the tin all around so the tin will come off without being damaged.

Ended up using heat and a BA hammer.... I thought after cleaning everything it would go back on easy... But nope .. had to hammer it back on as well ...