Pesky oil leak at tensioner line fitting

[mthomas58]

Back again with a picture this time. I've got a troublesome leak at one of the fittings on my left side oil tensioner line. I heisted this photo from another Pelican to show where my leak is. Fitting in center of the picture is leaking filling the depression below with oil. Have tried loosening and re-tightening the nut with no luck. Is there a compression ring inside that needs to be replaced? Size?

[unclebilly]

Are you sure it isn't one of the hose babrs leaking? Mine both were at the end of the summer and I got the hoses replaced at the local industrial hose shop.

If the metal bits are leaking (not the compression fitting) then you'll have to do some silver soldering or replace the line.

If the compression fitting is leaking, pull it apart, clean up the chamfer and bevel with some emery (careful not to get and grit or debris inside the line) and retighten.

[dick911]

Hi,

Just replace the whole oil line. Doesn't cost that much.

I have had this during a trip accross Europe; wanted to replace only the compression ring but finally the thin (downward) oil line snapped.

Dick911

[bdonally]

I found this leak is caused when the little line does not line up EXACTLY with the fitting at the tee. You might be able to loosen everything and improve the alignment but I found it is better to just get a new line. but then loosen all the brackets and the lower fitting and make sure all is aligned.
Tighthen the upper fitting first, with the lower fitting finger tight. Make sure the brackets aren't forcing the line one way or the other.
I also found that there is a risk that in tightening the small line repeatedly it will twist a bit and fail in a while.

[mthomas58]

For the recommendations to "replace the whole line" are you talking about replacing the small tube/line going to the tensioner or the entire line assembly?

Thanks!

[kees]

Originally posted by mthomas58
Is there a compression ring inside that needs to be replaced? Size?

No, there is no compression ring inside.



Replace the whole oil line, the two sealing rings at the banjo fitting side and line it up properly.
Will cost you probably 15 dollars. You have to remove the muffler and some engine tin.

Kees.

[Jim Sims]

If the leak is due to scored or damaged metal-to-metal sealing surfaces at the joint shown sometimes an effective repair can be made using Loctite 574, Loctite Cat. No. 57447 (orange compound used to seal the engine case seams). Thoughly degrease the metal-to-metal sealing surfaces, allow them to dry and then lightly coat them with the Loctite 574. Screw the fitting together tightly and allow to cure for an hour before applying oil pressure. Note that the compound begins to cure 20 minutes after it has lost contact with the air and once it is cured you cannot additionally tighten the fitting.

[john walker's workshop]

those metal lines crack all the time, right behind that little blunt end that's soldered on. the kits come with support arms that reduce this problem.

[mthomas58]

Is there a torque spec for that nut?

[Jeff Alton]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
those metal lines crack all the time, right behind that little blunt end that's soldered on. the kits come with support arms that reduce this problem.

True, I had one fail there on the track, bummer!

Cheers

[kees]

Originally posted by mthomas58
Is there a torque spec for that nut?

bump

[mthomas58]

Part # for left side kit (that includes small tube and support bracket) ?

[tonythetarga]

The replacement part is pipe only. The support bracket is a seperate part number as it the clamp that goes around the pipe as is the allen head bolt that threads into the clamp. (4 pieces in total)
I just put a new one on this past spring after the same problem This fall I put in new lines on top for both sides as well as hollow bolts. I reused the newish pipe and when I reinstalled, it cracked in the same place. I had it soldered up to get me home and bought a new one. Then I ordered the clamp and put that on to keep it from breaking again.
As far as torque goes, just enough to get it snug and then a very little more. (Very technical eh?)

[KTL]

Torque spec = snug just like Tony said. You may say, "Thanks alot smart a$$" but we're right. How would you plan to torque it to spec anyway? With a crows foot? You still won't get it exactly to spec even with that method. I have a bunch of reference material and cannot find the torque value in any of them. Just tighten the nut until you feel the nut resisting light turning of the wrench and then give it another 1/8th turn of the wrench and no more. Best thing to do to avoid over-torquing is to grab the wrench down low to reduce the amount of leverage you gain from the length of the wrench.

There's no kit unless you buy a complete tensioner update kit for converting the entire chain tensioner system from a pre-84 spring tensioner setup to the 84-89 Carrera oil fed tensioner setup.

The updated left tensioner feed line to use with the little bracket and clamp is 930 107 347 06

Clamp (left and right are same) = 999 511 174 02

Left Bracket = 930 107 341 00

You can find the screw for the clamp and bracket at a hardware store = M4 x 10mm or you can buy the Porsche part = 900 119 059 02