Outer CV Boots Torn, please help. - Page 3

KFC911 · 12-22-2006, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Paul Ferradas
[I do have a 450 ftlbs IR Imapct that I will try before the breaker bar. I'll let you guys know if that works. [/B]

My I/R is something like that for tightening, and goes to 600+ for loosening, maybe yours is the same. Even at 450, you shouldn't have any problem.

TroyGT · TroyGT's Garage

Here's a silly question, why can't someone make a CV boot that can be wrapped around the axle and fastened to hold the grease and to keep dust out. You could then just cut the old rubber boot off and then wrap the new one around and attach... unless there is more to it than I realize... it's just a rubber boot.

-Troy

KFC911 · 12-22-2006, 08:07 AM

Troy, I think there are 'aftermarket' CV boots that do just that. We just like to do things the hard way

Paul Ferradas · 12-22-2006, 10:01 AM

From what I understand, the outer rear CV joints are not replaceable, they are a part of the axle. I'm not sure about the boot itself. I'm not sure how bad the CV joints are since when I bought the car the boots were already torn and I don't know how long the PO has been driving like that.

Paul Ferradas · 12-22-2006, 10:03 AM

OK guys, I was able to get the nut off with no problem using my Impact Gun. Do you guys know if I can use this same gun to torque it back up? I know it needs about 330 ft/lbs and the gun in adjustable ( it has 5 notches on it but I don't know what torque ratings for each notch).

I rather torque with the gun because I won't have to go out and pick up any other tools. Let me know guys.

juanbenae · juanbenae's Garage

how did that lunch with the raiderette go? and by the way, any TRUE BAP would have gotten her out of the jeep for us to really get a look at. you know, love they brother?

T$

Paul Ferradas · 12-22-2006, 10:16 AM

hehe, hey Toby, how's it going. I'm actually having lunch with her in an hour to sign some paper work for Maxim Magazine. THat's why I'm trying to tighten my stud back up

randywebb · 12-22-2006, 10:23 AM

the gun is not accurate enough to use as a torque wrench -- you'll need a breaker bar sooner or later anyway so buy that and stand on it. - it can also be used to deter car thieves

dfink · 12-22-2006, 10:54 AM

OK So you have the Super Impact...

You could probably use the impact to get the nut back on good enough to go to lunch. Then find a truck repair place and see if they would torque it for you. I wouldn't use that big ass impact to put on lug nuts though....

Paul Ferradas · 12-22-2006, 04:58 PM

Is this formula correct?

dfink · 12-22-2006, 05:05 PM

That's the general idea but no way to calculate the bounce factor. I think others have posted that the setting is so high that they just get it as tight as they can using your method. Again if you really want to know just take it someplace after you get it tight and have them check it.

Paul Ferradas · 06:55 PM

I'm having a heck of a time trying to loosen the very first CV allen bolt. Either they are over tightened or theyve never been removed and stuck. The next idea that came to mind is going in from the side. I attached 4 extensions and I'm able to reach the bolt, all I need now is the 1/2 to 1/4 adapter and I can attached my Impact Wrench and try that route. Is it uncommon to go in from the side?

Also, while I was under the car I loosed a bar and I'm trying to determine what it is because it's broken on one end and I need to order a replacement. The bar attached from on bolt on the bottom of the engine casing to another bolt somewhere on the exhaust. I attached a picture of it below.

dfink · 12-22-2006, 07:11 PM

Can't help with the bar but I always do my CV bolts with a real long extension. I don't quite get the 1/2 to 1/4 adaptor. I hope you mean 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor. Make sure all the crud is cleaned out of the allen bolt so that you get a really good bite on it. I use a 1/2" breaker bar on the 3/8" extensions.

Paul Ferradas · 12-22-2006, 07:16 PM

Sorry, that's what I meant. 1/2 to 3/8's. How do you recommend getting the crud out? Some kind of spray?

wcc · 12-22-2006, 07:25 PM

Carb cleaner would clean out the crud.

I haven't read through this whole thread, so if I'm repeating someone else's post, sorry.

But to change both the inner and outer CV boots you don't even have to mess with that ~350ft-lbs of torque. I personally think that's a dumb way of doing it. I had to change both the inner and the outer boots, and I did it without messing with that high torque setting. I removed the axle from the trans and let it hang. Then I removed the inner boots and CV joint. Then I removed the outer boot by sliding it down the axle. Next I cleaned up the outer joint and the ENTIRE axle shaft. I then repacked the outer joint and slid down the new boot. After the outers were done, I repacked the inner joint and reinstalled it. Covered it up with a new boot and reconnected the axle to the transmission. Very easy, but messy.

BTW: I used many extensions on those allen bolts to extend it past the wheel so I could get more accurate leverage on them.

PS!!!!!: NEVER, I MEAN NEVER use a Impact Gun as a Torque Wrench. This is not what they are meant for.

Good Luck!!

Paul Ferradas · 12-22-2006, 08:06 PM

Thanks for that advise Bill. From now on, I only use my impact wrench to loosen bolts. I will use it to tighten the wheel hub nuts but on it's lowest setting and only after hand tightening them first. Then I torque them with the T-Wrench

dfink · 12-23-2006, 04:25 AM

A little carb cleaner as indicated but be careful this time of year if you have a heater going as it is flamable. WD-40 and some sort of brush works well. Even just a small screwdriver to go in and scrape out the crud so you get the allen socket seated well.

Short Rant: I have not quite figured out Porsche's facination with allen bolts. In trying to figure this out I have come up with this idea. They use the allen bolt in places where it is hard to get at which makes it worse for repairs. However for the installation they can use a larger sized bolt with a smaller fastener and still be able to get a tool attached to it. i.e. On the heat exchangers the studs are the same on each side of the port. You can get at one with a socket but the one you have to use an allen. If they would have put a nut on that side they would have needed a bigger hole for access. Same principle in other places. They need the holding power of a certain size fastener but have no room to secure it. If they would have made the axles large enough to leave room for standard bolts the flanges would have been hugh to leave clearance for a socket. Now why didn't they use a wrench other than the allen which strips. I don't know maybe wasn't invented yet.

Paul Ferradas · 12-23-2006, 08:08 AM

For cleaning out the gunk I used some grease spray cleaner and compressed air. I underestimated the power of compressed air! It brought the shine back to it. Almost as if I were sand blasting. WOW.

Paul Ferradas · 12-23-2006, 09:44 AM

This doesn't make sense. I'm using the same IR ratchet gun that got my stub axle nut loose, I'm using a 20" extension to reach the CV bolts from the side, over the wheel rotor. The ratchet is cranked to full power. Nothing. They won't budge. I figured if the ratchet got mt axle nut off it would be a walk in the park with the CV bolts. Doesn't make any sense to me.
Anyone have any other ideas?

Paul Ferradas · 12-23-2006, 09:58 AM

I am loosening them the right way I hope