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Outer CV Boots Torn, please help.

I'm about to purchase my first Porsche 911 tomorrow and I just had the PPI done at the Porsche dealer. Most of the finding were minor for an 88'. They did mention that the outer CV boots were torn on both sides. He quoted a repair of about $1400.00 parts and labor , he said that they come in kits and it's best to replace the inner boots as well.

I'm just about to plop down a bunch of money and I didn't forsee a $1400 repair right off the bat.

Do I really need to replace all the boots if only the outer ones are torn? Although I've never worked on cars all that much I am mechanically inclined and was wonder if i can replace the outer boots myslef and what's involved?


thanks guys, i hope yo learn alot from these forums.

Paul
Old 11-17-2006, 02:39 PM
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I think these are the parts you need. 928-332-924-02-M60 Check here
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Old 11-17-2006, 02:42 PM
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wow, if that's all I needed you just made my day.
Old 11-17-2006, 02:44 PM
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There's a number of articles on the board that cover this. I think 88diamondblue just did a good post about them. It's a messy job and you need a big wrench to get the axle nut off. If you're mechanically inclined, you should be able to handle it.

$1400 for replacing CV boots is absolutely ridiculous pricing by the way. $1400 is ridiculous even if you're replacing BOTH axles with brand new ones!!!!! I replaced the pair of axles on a friend's '88 this spring for around $450 I think.
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Old 11-17-2006, 02:49 PM
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Even if you replaced both axles, the parts would only cost about $600.-

Check here
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Old 11-17-2006, 02:52 PM
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They're probably quoting you for new axles, rear bearings, etc,

New axles are about $300 a side. There is no replacement CV joints for the outers on these, it's one piece... Once you remove the CV axle the rear bearings should be replaced, and those are a pain to replace, I took my trailing arms to a local shop so they could replace and press new ones. Another bit of fun info... the axle nut on these is torqued at some ridicoulous number (over 300 lbs) so taking it off is nearly impossible with home tools. Although I agree that $1400 is on the steep side.
Old 11-17-2006, 02:56 PM
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I have to respectfully disagree that the rear hub bearings should be replaced. If it ain't broke..............

The key to getting the mega torque nut off is to get a 3/4 in. drive breaker bar and a long length of galvanized pipe from the Home Depot. With the car off jackstands and sitting on the ground, put the car in reverse, set the parking brake and lean on the pipe to loosen the 460 Nm/340 lb-ft nut. I'd not recommend trying to use a 1/2 in. drive breaker bar because the extension is what kept breaking on me. Eventually gave up on 1/2 in. drive after breaking 3 Craftsman short extensions.
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:07 PM
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Wow guys, it's sounds like there's a little more to it than i want to handle. I'm not THAT mechanically inclined

I know this is a dumb question but I assume the 911 has 2 axles? If so each axle consists of 2 CV joints?

I would like to possibly take my car into a mechanic, maybe I should avoid the dealer like the plague.

I live in San Jose, CA. Does anyone know of a good Porsche mechanic in my area?

Thanks for all the help guys.
Old 11-17-2006, 03:13 PM
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Yes it has two axles, each with 2 CV joints. If the boot are torn, you don't know how long its been and what damage has occured to the CV joint. New axles are the best anf easiest way to go. Later on, with good CV joints, if you just tear a boot, you can replace it easily.

All it takes is a 3/8'' ratchet and allen socket (or 12 point if you have that type bolt) to remove and install them, but you want to torque them down properly.
Old 11-17-2006, 04:14 PM
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Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints
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Old 11-17-2006, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by A930Rocket

All it takes is a 3/8'' ratchet and allen socket (or 12 point if you have that type bolt) to remove and install them, but you want to torque them down properly.
If you're talking about removing the entire axle, you do need to remove the big axle nut in this case since the outer CV joint is not bolted, but welded to the outer stub axle/wheel hub. That's why I said he needs the big 3/4 in. drive breaker bar and a cheater pipe. You're thinking of the earlier axles that are bolted at both ends.
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Old 11-20-2006, 05:48 AM
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For a DIY, it's a 5 on a 10 scale. As other's have said, you will need a 3/4" drive breaker to remove and torque the axle bolt. If you want (and we encourage) to learn DIY on your Porsche, this board (and the 101 Projects Book) are a great resource for you.

You can clean the outer CV's and not replace both axles. All depends on condition of the CV's (after cleaning and inspection) and miles. It's messy, but doable. Also, swap the axles to rotate them the opposite direction.

Ideas:
Do a search for a San Jose area independent shop. I also highly recommend Mobile Works East - they'll come to your home and knock this job right out.

If you want to tackle it, post a "help me replace my CV's in San Jose" thread and I imagine you'll get some pelicans willing to help. If you were closer to the North Bay, I'd welcome you over to do it.

Good Luck!

Don
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Old 11-20-2006, 08:45 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions Don. i'd really love to work on my own car, since I'm just getting started I don't have all the tools I need and i still don't know what some parts are called and I'm unfamiliar with tools. I know i have alot too learn. I think it would be awesome if someone would like to help me out get started.

Petaluma can't be too far. I'm down for a nice drive
Old 11-20-2006, 08:55 AM
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OK guys, I picked up a pair of used but in good condition rear axled from Parts Heaven in Hayward. The ran me $125/each. I also picked up 12 new bolts.

I missed the 3/8 drive breaker bar and ended up picking up a 1/2 drive breaker bar at Harbor Frieght for $10 bucks. All I need now is the 33mm socket and a galvanized pipe for more leverage.

How do I torque the axle nuts to 339 ft/lbs when I tighten her back up? Do I use a torque wrench rated for 600 ft/lbs and use the galvanized pipe on the end again to tighten?
Old 12-06-2006, 05:49 PM
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The 1/2 breaker will not likely break the axle nut, even with the cheater bar.

To torque, I did this: mark a spot on the cheater bar 2 feet from the center. I weigh about 150 pounds. Stand on bar. (2x150 = 300 ft-lbs)
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Old 12-06-2006, 06:00 PM
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Hey Don, I was checking out your page. I'll have to try the Soliste some time How do you recommend I loosen the axle nut?
Old 12-06-2006, 06:12 PM
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You'll need a 3/4" breaker bar with a cheater pipe. I bent three 1/2" Craftsman breaker bars.

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Old 12-06-2006, 06:22 PM
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How long do you suggest the cheater bar be?
Old 12-06-2006, 06:31 PM
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You can buy a lot of tools for what you will save in labor with just a few DIY projects. You will need a 3/4" breaker bar and probably a cheater to get the rear axel nut off. I would leave the car in gear with the emergency brake on. Use some plastic pipe or some other object to brace the wheel by placing in between two of the lug nuts. I would break both sides loose before removing so the emergency brake works and the drive train can help hold. I bent a 3/4" pipe while taking mine off. I think alot on the board go by the method of "I weigh 175lbs and I stand (jump) on the end of a 2 foot bar it should be good for 350 ft lbs." I used a non metric size but don't remember exactly which one. You will probably twist off a 1/2" drive.
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Old 12-06-2006, 06:31 PM
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THanks guys, I didn't know how to calculate ft/lbs athat way, that a cool trick.

I guess I'll be picking up a 3/4 breaker bar somewhere. Hope it's not to pricey since I'll only be using it for the rear axle nuts.
Old 12-06-2006, 06:37 PM
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