What's thread cleaner? Is it a spray? I tried the good bolt on the other side and it went in fine and came out fine but the thread cleaner sounds like a good idea anyways.

The only sound I hear is a ssshhh sound, like something is lightly rubbing together in certain locations on the wheel hub. Maybe the rear brake assembly plate rubbing on something but I' not sure.

a thread cleaner is a metal thing with teeth on it - it is like a real loose fitting tap

can you get anybody to loan one and show you how to use it?

you may be ok if the other bolt works fine

Sorry I used the wrong term. It would be a thread chaser. They are like a bolt with grooves cut down the shaft. You run it in the hole to clean out the threads and maybe true them up a little. It is kind of like a tap only not as agressive. I would not use a tap as it is too easy to cross thread and the also the tap does not have full depth thread the whole length.
If all you here is a whoosh noise the bearings are probably OK. I would not mess with them unless bad but now was the time to check. More to ease your mind that they are OK than to make more work. The rear bearings are a PITA not something I would say is do it just for fun.

Sounds good. They stay then ;). I'm ready to patch her up anyways but I'll have to wait until I can run to Parts Heaven tomorrow and pick up some shock bolts. For right now I installed both axles and I'm torquing them down. My daughter Mia (Age 6) is helping me my pressing the brake pedal as I go through the bolts. I'm glad she's there cause it's a PITA getting up after every bolt to apply the E-Brake. Good excerise though.

Judging by the damage to the thread, you'll need to clean out the hole with a thread-chaser. Take the old bolt with you and get the right pitch for the chaser and the new bolt.
The new bolt has to be the same tensil-strength.
If you cannot find the right chaser, use the old bolt like this:
Grind a wedge-shaped groove into the old bolt length-wise with a Zip blade to make an improvised chaser.
Use it to clean out the hole ( Don't connect the shock)
Try the new bolt without the shock first.
If that works, remove the new bolt and grind a tapered "Lead" at the end to make it easier to engage the thread in the hole when you mount the shock. Blow out the hole and use anti-seize grease
You do not want to damage the thread in the arm any more than it already is, very $$ costly part.

Did you use new Schnorr lock washers on the CV Allen bolts?

i found a SnapOn 1" breaker bar with a bag of sockets in my office. some quick math showed a 1.25" = 32mm. i(i use a 4" socket as my pencil holder) the bar is 3 feet long and i took off two axle nuts on a 928 with barely any sweat. next time.

A gifted child indeed...!

You can also use a 'wheel chock' (or a brick) under the counterlateral tire (assuming both ends are suspended) to the lock the differential in place as you torque.

Rotate to the next spot, chock the wheel (while under the p-car) and repeat the sequence…

BTW, it is a also a good idea to support (jack) the trailing arm when you re-install the shock –it will prevent metal to metal friction contact as you advance the bolt.

Gunter,

I was looking online for thread chaser and I only see a few sizes available. I see one for spark plug holes, oxygen sensor, and a 14 and 18mm. I'm assuming that your referring to the ones that cost abour $20 and not the outside chasers which cost alot more.

I did check the threads with the good bolt and it went in just fine and tightened nicely so I don't think there is damage to the threads.

This sucks. I just called Parts Heaven in Hayward an they are closed everyday until January 2nd. Is this bolt available at any hardware store or is it a specialty bolt? I'd hate to have to wait a week for a bolt. And I'm not even certain that Parts Heaven carries it.

Call Pelican - standard Porsche part, in NorCal it typically will be here tomorrow with standard shipping

Thanks Don, that's what I did.