Yes Don. You are absolutely right. It's the chance I take on this one. This might sound idiotic but I'm willing to spend $125 each time my boot tears. I just don't feel like dealing with all that mess of repacking CV joints. It's easier for me to just pop another one in. I feel confident now that I can do it in a few hours now that I know how.

OK, here's a dumb question:

Before I install these axles, is there a left and right or does it matter?

I re-read my previos post, the cost of the axles were $125 not $150.

paul, i would save the old ones, don't throw them out. if the used units/boots do fail in the next few years you can rebuild the old ones off the car while still running the new/used ones.

Just an idea.

PM me your phone number and i will stop by next time you get into a project, or let you know when i am doing one. i will be doing some stuff after the 1st of the year after santa brings me a PP gift cert.

maybe you'll have a spare raiderette laying around?

T$

and by the way, happy holidays donny plum! been cold up there petaluma way?

saw you go by last night watching some video from sears point from last summer on my brand-new-second-hand big screen
T$

The support brace was originally installed to avoid noise from 2nd and 3rd gear while coasting (engine speed 3-4K RPM)... if the above mentioned symptoms become apparent you will know why...

Thanks Jascha.

Toby, PM'ed you.

I haven't progressed much today. It's kind of a lazy day for me but I'm having fun taking apart the axle and exploring it. I'd really like to take apart the outer joint but I'm not sure how to do that without slicing the housing open. Does it just pry off or is it welded? I'm curious to compare the condition of the CV to the other side that had the boot intact.

Here's some images from the side that had the boot intact. I don't know if these are the original axles from the car but I'm assuming they are.

Here's all the parts:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166992229.jpg

I'm not sure what this piece is called but this is the only significant signs of wear that I found, it this called "pitting"?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166992254.jpg

And here if the "cage"? Again some signs of wear but normal considering the age of the car.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166992337.jpg

I'm going to try and tear apart the outer CV. I might just save the reinstall for tomorrow. This is too much fun ;)

Clearly, what you are showing is ‘wear and tear’ on the CV joint having been around the block few times over (and /or poor lubrication). Unfortunately, there is no assurance that the other used set is much better until such time that you take them apart and verify...

BTW, Grady Clay described nicely how to service the welded (outer) assembly CV-joint (see below):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/222537-reconstructing-constant-velocity-cv-joints.html

Thanks Jascha, I'll take a look at that post. What a surprise, I took apart the outer, the one with the torn boot for who knows how long, and believe it or not it looks in better shape thatn the side that was intact. Actually, the cage and bearings look the same. The beraing look to be in good shape, smooth as pearls. The center piece did not have any pitting.

Here's a pic. The parts on the right belong to the torn boot:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166994725.jpg

Jascha, that link takes me to the main forum page. Please check it.

Please try again...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=222537

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/62514-cv-joint-disassembly.html

I know you said you were going to pitch them, but if you have taken them apart, you can put them together with lube and new boots, but you would want to keep all the parts of one bearing together. You save money and know they are ready to go the distance.

The part with the bad pitting is trash to me and the CV joint would need to be replaced. I'm not sure about the Carrera's, but the 930 CV boot kits are like $5-10 per side. Not sure how much a new CV joint is. $200?

I've bought new axles for about $250, but they had to be rebuilt. I can't see how they can replace both CV joints and boots for that little $. Three of the four boots had to be replaced due to tears within one year. Maybe because they had the metal bands and not zip ties?

From the pic below, I'm guessing that the bearings on the left, which are a little bit darker, came from the bearing that was pitted.

Just curious if you went ahead and checked the rear wheel bearings while you had the axles out. Also I am sure you have read all the other posts. Make sure that you check the 12 flange bolts in a 100 miles or so to make sure they are staying tight.
I don't blame you for not wanting to mess with axles. That is the dirtiest job I have done on my car. As others have said though the dirty part is over. You did it anyhow before you toss them you might see if anyone wants to pay shipping for them.

It's quiet simple. I didn't want to fork out $600 for a pair of new axles at the moment. Since the boots were torn I figured the CV's were toast so I opted for a used pair that appear to have never ripped. I would think that I'm bettert than where I started. If and when they tear again, I will buy new ones and be done with it. Not a big deal.

What size were the Allen bolts? 8mm or 10mm thread? 8MM
What size Allen key? 6mm or 8mm? 8MM allen socket

I checked the rear bearings. I think they sound pretty good. On the right side I hear like a ssshhh sound in certain spots when I rotate the hub. Like the sound where to surface are lightly rubbing. I don't think those are the bearings.

I wouldn't mind doing the bearings but I'd have to order them and I don't have the proper tool to pull them. I'll keep it in mind for a summer project.

Currently I'm trying to align the rear shoch with the trailing arm to get that pesky bolt back in. What a PITA.

Paul:
Re Allen bolts:
If the thread size is 8mm, then the Allen socket size cannot be 8mm.
The reason I ask is that there are different sizes used on these flanges and it makes a big difference for torque.
8mm = 30 ft-lbs.
10mm = 60 ft-lbs.
Please, check again.

On the Carrera the six allen bolts on the inboard side need to be torqued to 32ft lbs. Have had mine on and off several times due to engine drop and changing axle boots. Torqued to 32ft lbs and checked at 100 miles, 200 miles and after a trip to the track and never had a loose one. I check them about every 1000 miles.

Around 85.5 the axles/CV's became larger.
Previously, the 6 Allen bolts were M8 with a 6mm Allen key (Or socket) needed to tighten to about 30 ft-lbs.
Are the 6 Allen bolts still M8 with the larger, later axles?
What is confusing is that Paul reports he is using an 8mm Allen socket for 8mm bolts.
That doesn't make sense. I checked and my M8 Allen bolts take a 6mm Allen key (Or socket)

Sorry for the confusion. This will clear it all up. I'm still learning to measure bolts properly, sorry.

Here's the bolts that I'm using. Look liks the thread measure 10mm and I'm using an 8mm allen socket. Per the Bently manual it should be torqued to 60 ft/lbs.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167077325.jpg
Here's my other problem that will not allow me to continue today. My rear shock bolt is shot. As you can tell. The other side looks fine but since I'm gonna have to run to the store tomorrow I might as well buy both sides.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167077349.jpg
This brings up another idea of replacing the rear wheel bearings since the car won't be ready today anyways.

Any Pelicans out there have a bearing puller (Porsche Tool) and willing to give me a hand?

Thanks.

No need to replace rear bearings unless they are bad. Give them a spin a see how they sound.
That bolt looks nasty. You want to run a thread cleaner down the hole before attempting to torque a new bolt. Don't get discouraged by all the little ad-ons they will eventually be done and you will have a very nice. Little things like thread chasers and the like do add up. It would be nice if you could find someone to mooch a few of the rarely needed things.