Outer CV Boots Torn, please help.
 

I'm about to purchase my first Porsche 911 tomorrow and I just had the PPI done at the Porsche dealer. Most of the finding were minor for an 88'. They did mention that the outer CV boots were torn on both sides. He quoted a repair of about $1400.00 parts and labor , he said that they come in kits and it's best to replace the inner boots as well.

I'm just about to plop down a bunch of money and I didn't forsee a $1400 repair right off the bat.

Do I really need to replace all the boots if only the outer ones are torn? Although I've never worked on cars all that much I am mechanically inclined and was wonder if i can replace the outer boots myslef and what's involved?


thanks guys, i hope yo learn alot from these forums.

Paul

I think these are the parts you need. 928-332-924-02-M60 Check here

wow, if that's all I needed you just made my day.

There's a number of articles on the board that cover this. I think 88diamondblue just did a good post about them. It's a messy job and you need a big wrench to get the axle nut off. If you're mechanically inclined, you should be able to handle it.

$1400 for replacing CV boots is absolutely ridiculous pricing by the way. $1400 is ridiculous even if you're replacing BOTH axles with brand new ones!!!!! I replaced the pair of axles on a friend's '88 this spring for around $450 I think.

Even if you replaced both axles, the parts would only cost about $600.-

Check here

They're probably quoting you for new axles, rear bearings, etc,

New axles are about $300 a side. There is no replacement CV joints for the outers on these, it's one piece... Once you remove the CV axle the rear bearings should be replaced, and those are a pain to replace, I took my trailing arms to a local shop so they could replace and press new ones. Another bit of fun info... the axle nut on these is torqued at some ridicoulous number (over 300 lbs) so taking it off is nearly impossible with home tools. Although I agree that $1400 is on the steep side.

I have to respectfully disagree that the rear hub bearings should be replaced. If it ain't broke..............

The key to getting the mega torque nut off is to get a 3/4 in. drive breaker bar and a long length of galvanized pipe from the Home Depot. With the car off jackstands and sitting on the ground, put the car in reverse, set the parking brake and lean on the pipe to loosen the 460 Nm/340 lb-ft nut. I'd not recommend trying to use a 1/2 in. drive breaker bar because the extension is what kept breaking on me. Eventually gave up on 1/2 in. drive after breaking 3 Craftsman short extensions.

Wow guys, it's sounds like there's a little more to it than i want to handle. I'm not THAT mechanically inclined :)

I know this is a dumb question but I assume the 911 has 2 axles? If so each axle consists of 2 CV joints?

I would like to possibly take my car into a mechanic, maybe I should avoid the dealer like the plague.

I live in San Jose, CA. Does anyone know of a good Porsche mechanic in my area?

Thanks for all the help guys.

Yes it has two axles, each with 2 CV joints. If the boot are torn, you don't know how long its been and what damage has occured to the CV joint. New axles are the best anf easiest way to go. Later on, with good CV joints, if you just tear a boot, you can replace it easily.

All it takes is a 3/8'' ratchet and allen socket (or 12 point if you have that type bolt) to remove and install them, but you want to torque them down properly.

All you want to know is there...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/222537-reconstructing-constant-velocity-cv-joints.html

If you're talking about removing the entire axle, you do need to remove the big axle nut in this case since the outer CV joint is not bolted, but welded to the outer stub axle/wheel hub. That's why I said he needs the big 3/4 in. drive breaker bar and a cheater pipe. You're thinking of the earlier axles that are bolted at both ends.

For a DIY, it's a 5 on a 10 scale. As other's have said, you will need a 3/4" drive breaker to remove and torque the axle bolt. If you want (and we encourage) to learn DIY on your Porsche, this board (and the 101 Projects Book) are a great resource for you.

You can clean the outer CV's and not replace both axles. All depends on condition of the CV's (after cleaning and inspection) and miles. It's messy, but doable. Also, swap the axles to rotate them the opposite direction.

Ideas:
Do a search for a San Jose area independent shop. I also highly recommend Mobile Works East - they'll come to your home and knock this job right out.

If you want to tackle it, post a "help me replace my CV's in San Jose" thread and I imagine you'll get some pelicans willing to help. If you were closer to the North Bay, I'd welcome you over to do it.

Good Luck!

Don

Thanks for the suggestions Don. i'd really love to work on my own car, since I'm just getting started I don't have all the tools I need and i still don't know what some parts are called and I'm unfamiliar with tools. I know i have alot too learn. I think it would be awesome if someone would like to help me out get started.

Petaluma can't be too far. I'm down for a nice drive :)

OK guys, I picked up a pair of used but in good condition rear axled from Parts Heaven in Hayward. The ran me $125/each. I also picked up 12 new bolts.

I missed the 3/8 drive breaker bar and ended up picking up a 1/2 drive breaker bar at Harbor Frieght for $10 bucks. All I need now is the 33mm socket and a galvanized pipe for more leverage.

How do I torque the axle nuts to 339 ft/lbs when I tighten her back up? Do I use a torque wrench rated for 600 ft/lbs and use the galvanized pipe on the end again to tighten?

The 1/2 breaker will not likely break the axle nut, even with the cheater bar.

To torque, I did this: mark a spot on the cheater bar 2 feet from the center. I weigh about 150 pounds. Stand on bar. (2x150 = 300 ft-lbs)

Hey Don, I was checking out your page. I'll have to try the Soliste some time ;) How do you recommend I loosen the axle nut?

You'll need a 3/4" breaker bar with a cheater pipe. I bent three 1/2" Craftsman breaker bars.

Soliste - Planned to be released in the spring - still aging away.... :)

How long do you suggest the cheater bar be?

You can buy a lot of tools for what you will save in labor with just a few DIY projects. You will need a 3/4" breaker bar and probably a cheater to get the rear axel nut off. I would leave the car in gear with the emergency brake on. Use some plastic pipe or some other object to brace the wheel by placing in between two of the lug nuts. I would break both sides loose before removing so the emergency brake works and the drive train can help hold. I bent a 3/4" pipe while taking mine off. I think alot on the board go by the method of "I weigh 175lbs and I stand (jump) on the end of a 2 foot bar it should be good for 350 ft lbs." I used a non metric size but don't remember exactly which one. You will probably twist off a 1/2" drive.

THanks guys, I didn't know how to calculate ft/lbs athat way, that a cool trick.

I guess I'll be picking up a 3/4 breaker bar somewhere. Hope it's not to pricey since I'll only be using it for the rear axle nuts.

Harbor Freight for the 3/4" bar

Again, you can borrow mine if you want to swing up to Petaluma. But for that gas money, you can get the breaker from Harbor Freight - good for a couple time use.

I didin't see a 3/4 at Harbor Freight. The biggest one I saw was the 1/2 that I bought. I'll call them up tomorrow and see if I can find it.

Don, thanks for the invite but I checked to see where Petaluma was and that's quite a drive. I' probably do it to help with an engine drop or something like that.

I appreciate you guys helping me along. I'm sure I'll run into a snag here and the but I feel good to know that you guys are around.

Thanks again

There are so many things that I want to do. This stuff is fun, especially when your workingon a car you enjoy.

My next project is to sandblast by alternator fan and make it all shiny. It has alot of crud on it right now. It doesn't look like it's ever been cleaned.

I saw some sandblast containers for $99 at Harbor Frieght. After I find an air compressor I might go that route. I use to sand blast back in airline maintenance school and I remember it was fun.

Paul,

Check this out it will show you what I did on my 88. I used a 1/2" breaker bar with a pipe and a deep impact socket. I used Kroil on the nut, it wouldn't budge until I did. Used a 1/2" torque wrench to get to 250 ft lbs and then used the breaker bar with a 4' pipe to get close to the final torque. One way to make sure is stop at a diesel mechanic and have them torque to final spec since they have a 3/4" torque wrench. That tip thanks to Grady Clay.
CV boot replacement

Wouldn't it be easier to leave the tires on while I loosen the nut? I have RUF wheels so I think the center cap will pop right off. Although I'm not sure how deep the nut will be since I have spacers.

Thanks for that thread, I'll give it a read.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165471134.jpg

Paul,

Good idea to leave the wheels on to break the nut loose. Evidently there have been a few bent lugs without the wheel on. No problem with mine. A deep socket should handle it. I use impact sockets since they are built to take the abuse of an impact wrench.:cool:

That was me almost five years ago. Acquire the tools, and knowledge (with the help of this board) as you go along, and you'll be fine. My car had one slightly torn outer CV boot when I purchased her, and repacking all 4 CVs (replacing the boots) was my first 'real' project. Grab some towels, plan to get messy, and go for it. I've found working on my car to be just about as much fun as driving...but not quite :)! I didn't even have Michael's excellent thread to guide me way back when...

I'm gonna skip the repacking for now. I thought I had heard that the CV joint on the rear outer axle was not replacable and I'm not sure how long the boot has been torn, probably a while so I just bought 2 axles and I'll be popping them in. My biggest challeng it seems will be the axle nut.

Make sure that the CV joints have a good ammount of Moly grease in them.
Get the Bentley Carrera Repair Manual, you'll love it!
For the axle nut:
Parking brake on, in reverse gear.
Wheels on the ground, center cap out, 3/4-drive socket with short 3/4" extension, breaker bar with a 4 ft. pipe on it.
Use your body weight, step on it.

When installing the new axles, snug the bolts on the flange (Transmission side) first all around, then do the final torque.
To deal with Allen bolts properly, make sure the inner hex is clean so the Allen key will go fully in.
If the bolts look too worn, use new ones with new Schnorr washers.
Search other threads for details.
Get the Bentley!

Thanks Gunter. I have the Bentley manual, it's awesome. I think I'm ready to tackle the job. I'll report back to let you all know how it went.

Thanks for all the advise guys!

I'm ready to replace the rear axles this weekend. I'll try to loosen the stub axle nuts with an inpact wrench but I'm not sure how that will go. Next step will be the breaker bar and so on. This will be my first big project. The anxiety is building :)

Unless you have some mega air pressure and a super impact I would even bother unwinding the hose. Just get after it with the breaker bar.

If you can't find one locally check here:
http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B0007P8AKU/ref=pd_rvi_gw_1/105-0377052-0174866

Thanks for the link. I have a 1/2 drive breaker bar that I'm going to try first. If I bend it then I'll hunt for a 3/4 drive. I'll try Sears, not sure if they carry them or not. Last time I checked Harbor Freight only had the 1/2 drive. (THat's where I bought mine) $9 bucks!

Good luck this weekend. Please let us know how it goes. I'm not far behind you. This look familar?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166759122.jpg

Sears should have one. If not, check K-mart since they now carry Craftsman stuff. I have the Craftsman 3/4 bar and the equivalent inch sized socket. It is much more sturdy than the 1/2 in. Craftsman bar I have.

I've got an I/R impact wrench, and at 90 psi, it has no problem with the stub axle nuts...that's about the only place I do use an I/R on my car.

Keith
'88 CE coupe

1/2"???:confused: For 220 ft-lbs.???:rolleyes:

Where, in the many replies, did you see anybody suggesting 1/2" drive ??? :(

It's surprising how many people ask for help/advise and then ignore it. Why even ask???

O.K. sprinkle some holy water on it and try 1/2". :D :D

Gunter, Iv'e had someone offline tell me that they used a 1/2 for their axle nuts and got the nuts off. The reason I will try that first is because I have those tools. If that doesn't work, I'll get the 3/4 drive that most recommend. I'm not ignoring anyones advise. If it wasn't for the advise that I get on these boards I wouldn;t be doing most of this work. Happy Holidays!

I do have a 450 ftlbs IR Imapct that I will try before the breaker bar. I'll let you guys know if that works.