Def not "Plug & Play"

hatpix · hatpix's Garage

Santa finally got off his fat behind and had some guy in brown shorts drop off my Rennline tower strut brace. The package was naturally crushed but everything inside is ok.

In any case I assumed the bar would come somewhat assembled, but here is the state it comes in. I'm sure it won't be a problem, but I didn't expect a sack of bolts and assorted loose pieces:

lateapex911 · 12-29-2006, 03:10 PM

Man I LOVE projects like that...so easy, so clean and satisfying. You can have SOMETHING in 20 minutes! I should do more of those, LOL>

BTW, I think thats one of the best units on a very short list of 2.

hatpix · hatpix's Garage

Yep. A little less than 20 minutes to mock it all up. Figured out why they ship it like that. They have three versions of the bar, single bar, double bar, and triangulated bar. So they ship everyone the single bar kit, and add to it the appropriate pieces for the other two models. That's why everyone says "I can't figure out what these other 2 spacers are for", those are for the base single-bar kit, and everyone gets the same hardware kit regardless of model.

My only gripe so far is the instructions are a bit on the meager side. Doesn't mention that you have to scrape off the goop that's on the towers, or what the proper torque setting is for the bolts or the bars. And when you go to tighten the bars (which acts like a giant turnbuckle between the towers) do you expand (tension to expand towers) or contract (tension to cinch towers together) them before you set the lock nuts?

Eric-325I · 12-29-2006, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hatpix
[BAnd when you go to tighten the bars (which acts like a giant turnbuckle between the towers) do you expand (tension to expand towers) or contract (tension to cinch towers together) them before you set the lock nuts? [/B]

While doing my own reading on this subject recently, I read in a thread about this that the proper way is to 'tighten them pulling the towers together until the play in the connections is removed... But not to overtighten, just remove the play in the set-up'.

Hope this helps.

Eric

lateapex911 · 12-29-2006, 03:40 PM

In theory, it shouldn't matter whether you go in or out, but folks like to go in to try and pick up miniscule amounts of camber. I haven't done that and actually measured the possible gain, but I suspect it's not significant. Would be interested to hear some real before and after numbers....

hatpix · hatpix's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Eric-325I
While doing my own reading on this subject recently, I read in a thread about this that the proper way is to 'tighten them pulling the towers together until the play in the connections is removed... But not to overtighten, just remove the play in the set-up'.

Hope this helps.

Eric

Totally helps, that's what I was looking for. Just think that should be mentioned in the install instructions. I'm going to send Rennline an email.

Still need torque settings.... Anyone?

lateapex911 · 12-29-2006, 03:45 PM

I can't give you numbers, but use common sense. The bolts that you remove should be replaced with the same torque. Probably listed in the shop manual on that, as I think you are refering to the factory bolts, right?

As for the rod nuts (turnbuckle), thats tough to get a reading on. Go for solid, but don't throw your body weight into it. If you know what I mean, LOL>

hatpix · hatpix's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by lateapex911
I can't give you numbers, but use common sense. The bolts that you remove should be replaced with the same torque. Probably listed in the shop manual on that, as I think you are refering to the factory bolts, right?

As for the rod nuts (turnbuckle), thats tough to get a reading on. Go for solid, but don't throw your body weight into it. If you know what I mean, LOL>

In addition to the turnbuckle bolts, there are the bolts that attach the bars to the brackets. Would you replace the regular bolts with Nyloks just for safety?

VaSteve · 12-29-2006, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hatpix

My only gripe so far is the instructions are a bit on the meager side. Doesn't mention that you have to scrape off the goop that's on the towers, or what the proper torque setting is for the bolts or the bars. And when you go to tighten the bars (which acts like a giant turnbuckle between the towers) do you expand (tension to expand towers) or contract (tension to cinch towers together) them before you set the lock nuts?

There's a book out there somewhere that discusses the scraping of the goop. I think it's call 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 or something similar.

hatpix · hatpix's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by VaSteve
There's a book out there somewhere that discusses the scraping of the goop. I think it's call 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 or something similar.

I am familiar with this document. Some say it holds the secret to happiness and has been read by the Dalai Lama, but Rennline should still tell you in the install instructions.

lateapex911 · 12-29-2006, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hatpix
In addition to the turnbuckle bolts, there are the bolts that attach the bars to the brackets. Would you replace the regular bolts with Nyloks just for safety?

Probably not. Did they include lock washers? Is the hardware stainless or plated? If you do add anything, or change anything, be sure to match for corrosion resistance.

hatpix · hatpix's Garage

Regular washers, regular nuts. Looks like stainless to me.

Bearded Viking · 12-29-2006, 04:32 PM

hatpix - Is that the dual bar setup or the triangulated setup?

hatpix · hatpix's Garage

That's the dual bar. Currently looking like this:

jaydubya · 12-29-2006, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by lateapex911
In theory, it shouldn't matter whether you go in or out, but folks like to go in to try and pick up miniscule amounts of camber. I haven't done that and actually measured the possible gain, but I suspect it's not significant. Would be interested to hear some real before and after numbers....

I get an additional -0.5 degrees on each side. This is maxing out the stock hardware and then tensioning the cross-bar as much as I can.

lateapex911 · 12-29-2006, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaydubya
I get an additional -0.5 degrees on each side. This is maxing out the stock hardware and then tensioning the cross-bar as much as I can.

So, is the gain from the maxing of the stock hardware, or the tensioning???

jaydubya · 12-29-2006, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by lateapex911
So, is the gain from the maxing of the stock hardware, or the tensioning???

Sorry if I wasn't clear. Align the car for max negative camber, get -1.4 or so on each side. Then tension the bar and measure again, get -1.9 or so. This is on an alignment rack.

Zeke · 12-29-2006, 05:40 PM

Why stress the body so much? What do your hood gaps look like now?

jaydubya · 12-29-2006, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by milt
Why stress the body so much? What do your hood gaps look like now?

Need the camber! My hood gaps look fine. There is no permanent effect that I can tell - have been doing it for 8 years now.

I'm not the only one who does this, it's a very old club racing "trick". We aren't allowed to use offset camber plates or offset ball joints in the PCA stock classes, also not allowed to machine or grind the factory camber plates, so you get your camber however you can. I still need another degree!

hatpix · hatpix's Garage

Just got a email reply from Rennline about the install:

Put a bit of pressure inward (Pulling the towers together). Not
much, just enough to take up any slop in the brackets and rod ends. No
torque is needed. Just tighten them (the bolts that attach the bars to the
brackets) up.