Gap between Rubber Windshield Seal & Body

[Jesse16]

Described in many threads.
Really, just use a mixture of dishsoap and water to lube the rubber grove with your hands and a piece of clothesline rope (the right dia. is mentioned in other threads but its nothing real special).
With the rubber on the windshield (also lubed for later "pushing into place", you'll need to move everything some later to make it fit nicely as everything is not "super tight ) wrap soapy cord around the windshield one time inside the outside gasket groove and overlap it a foot or so at the bottom. (cut off the cord so you have a foot or two hanging from the two ends.
Carry the assembly to the car, lay it in place and eye-ball it as to center, with the cord inside on the dash. I believe some detail as to putting a piece of tape on the centerline of glass and car so you have a reference (nice to have, don't go nuts)
With one person inside and the other outside, you work from wherever you plan to pull the cord. Push that area of the gasket against the metal lip and inside the car person pulls the cord which lifts the gasket lip over the metal lip. The two people work together pushing hard enough to keep the advancing lifted gasket lip over the metal lip. Once you get to the corner of the dash and can see whats happening, it'll all be very apparent and you'll immediately understand whether you're doing it right. If you miss somehow, just lift the windshield out, fix the rope and do over.
Good luck.

[78SCRSMAN]

What a great thread for the DIY guys and gals.
I just did my rear window today (twice!) and aside from the first try, had total success using our hosts OEM gasket. I used silicone spray instead of soapy water to lube the gasket. I turned the ready to install glass upside down on a couple saw horses and sprayed a liberal amount onto a rag and then used the rag to wiped the side and interior side of the seal with the silicone spray soaked rag. (do NOT spray silicone spray on the glass... It takes FOREVER to remove it!)
My only advice to someone trying this is to be sure the trim does not pop out any where as you set the glass in place. If it does, save yourself the frustration and take it back out to fix the problem before you start roping it in. My first try took several hours due to the trims "J" chanell coming out in one spot. My second attempt took 15 minutes!
Good luck!!!

[jmz]

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[hcoles]

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[RD911T]

Great thread

[dshepp806]

Mine's in for paint, and subsequent (complete restoration-1989) new glass. A new windshield will be installed, along with the "factory" seal.

Of course, on this model, there exists no "metal" trim pieces and is comprised of (only) rubber. I've not seen any Porsche that doesn't suffer (ultimately) the symptoms many have described here (that is, those conditions of age,..and resultant shrinkage of this seal over time). The "wider" version rubber will be used in my case, and makes perfect sense to me.

So,..off to study the differences

I'll stay close to my painter on this and discuss any uses of any 3M products within his protocol come "glass time". All of my window seals were quite ok EXCEPT that damned windshield. Frick it,..we're changing them all (the plan) and prefer this phase to be rock solid,...a one timer. Looking forward to seeing this phase handled 100% (goal....).

Lots of things to think about,.....great information here,..thanks to all!!


BEST!

Doyle

BEST!

Doyle

[ChrisP911]

I bought a 82 SC and it had rust on the A pillars. So last week I pulled out the windshield to fix the rust and the upper driver side must have had a case of black silicone in that corner and across the top. I went to saflite yesterday they installed a new windshield. Well I have a huge gap on the upper driver side and across the top is not locked into the pinch weld. They said my roof is twisted but has no buckles in it. The car was in a accident but was repaired by a shop that pulls frames on 911. So I am hoping this method works.









this is inside looking out.

[porwolf]

Originally Posted by randywebb

This pic shows the gap I have between teh rubber seal that holds the windshield in on my 1973.5 911 and the newly painted body.

The windshield was removed by the guy who painted the car.

This pic is the condition existing AFTER I carefully pull the rubber out of the gap so it covers as well as it can.

I am worried about water getting down in there and rusting away the bottom of the lip that hold the glass in....

Any thoughts??

I was thinking that maybe the shape of the window affects the seal location in the corner. Was a new, not original Porsche window, installed? And what about squeezing black silicone adhesive under the seal at the corners to keep water out?

[Eric Hahl]

You can place a block of soft wood against the inside of the metal trim and tap it out with a mallet. Just take your time and tap it in various spots around the inside radius. It will push the trim out and the rubber will move with it.


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[81SCRosewood]

Just a thought ... for those who haven't been able to use a soft piece of wood and knock the corner out enough for the rubber to cover correctly. How about using "plumbers putty" to fill the gap and keep the rubber in the correct position?

[jittsl]

ChrisP, is that daylight showing between the outside of the gasket and the frame of the car? If so, Holy Crap, that is way more than simply a matter of tapping the gasket around. Did it have a windscreen in it when you bought it and did it roughly fit? If so, I would ask Safelight to give back your money, take out their screen and give back your old one - there screen is obviously junk. If not, then you have serious issues.

[rs6er]

Just read this thread. I picked up my car from a reputable Porsche shop (Manhattan trophy winner) in July. They had replace a broken windshield. When I got home I noticed the gap that everyone is having an AHA moment about. I called the shop, and they told me to fix it using Randy's method, but weren't quite that specific. I was afraid of damaging the trim and/or the next glass. Randy's post made it perfectly clear except for one thing. A picture in the thread shows the wood shim going under the front edge of the metal trim. Is that correct, or do you just press against the inside radius of the trim with the wood?

[Jesse16]

Great thread, got my gap from the new seal installed late winter fixed today using the tapping technique. Had forgotten this step and been looking at that little "gap" on drivers side top since I got the car home. Fixed in 10 minutes so now should be reasonably water tight at least at the windshield. Just some light taps gained me a few mm's so the lip is out looking nice.

[hoss4659]

I have the same problem with the rear glass--upper right corner and lower left corner. I used pediatric tongue depressors. aka popsicle sticks with ends sharpened to lift up the outer edge of the rubber. I then pushed in several thin rolls of 3M Scotch caulk to fill in the space where the rubber is supposed to be. Did this both above and below the gap for maybe an inch. Used the black caulk and where it shows you have to take a very close exam to see it. Not a purist's approach but it seals the water out. I recall I did the same thing to a '70 911S when it was new. Current fix is on an '88 Carrera

[wayner]

Originally Posted by lateapex911

When it comes to anything involving seals and water and such, I FAR prefer to not use goop, sealant, putty or whatever. Better DESIGN wins in my book. Of house roofs, make sure everything overlaps, and you'll be dry. In this case, let the rubber seals do the job they were designed for. Adding goop is a stopgap measure...IMO.

Coming back to this again after a few years.

In principle I agree with this statement, however, in our Canadian housing market, a good roofer will now also add blueskin or an ice shield on the first few feet of the roof. Not because it is needed, but because as the roof ages and swings of +30 to -30 happen through out the season, the likelihood of a good roofing job to begin leaking is high enough that an ounce of prevention is good measure

Thats the same thinking behind me recommending a dab of 3m Bedding and glazing compound on the seal. If you live in climate controlled comfort, then it is probably not required, but where I live with +30 to -30, rubber is always shrinking and expanding, as wells sticking itself to the body in one of its heat cycles, and then not moving properly. 3M compound acts like both a light sealing membrane in case of leaks, as well as a lubricant.

Its common among installers of glass in old cars and is very different than the "glue" used on newer cars.

Here is the discussion thread along with a link to a video on how to use it in that thread

To "Glue" or-not-to "Glue!

[47silver]

i used glycerine. about 9 bucks at the pharmacy
put some on the groove and the trim presses in fairly easily.

[LM3929]

I found that when I used glycerine or soap the rubber stays slippery for over 24 hours so I only use silicone spray.

Lorne M.

[47silver]

i tried a squeegee and cut it to fit the curve and that worked good but was not strong enough. i then used a piece of thin would but i think something like a piece of redwood cut thin on the edge would be the best bet..the window rubber actually fits now.

[wayner]

Hammer handle

Mine is designed to push the rubber and the trim

[47silver]

thanks for all the tips the window fits perfectly now,,,, really cool how it all works