Targa Rear Window Removal -- Observations and Questions

[1982911SCTarga]

OK, lots of questions. If I miss one, let me know.

-- I think the short defroster wire does run in the glass flange along the bottom edge of the glass. There's an old thread around here that discusses the wiring connections.

-- The taping is really a series of taping and re-taping -- I buy packing tape by the case so it's not a big deal, but you'll go through quite a bit. You want to try to break the process down into stages. Put the new seal on the window, first, and then tape the seal to the window. Then put the trim on the seal on the window as you remove tape and apply new tape. Don't forget that as you go through this, you'll want to periodically slick things up. You're fighting several factors here: 1. The seal will not want to stay on the window (particularly in the upper left and right corners); and 2. The trim will not want to stay on the seal. So, like Nietzche, you have to create order out of this chaos -- not an easy thing.

-- Clean up of the tape afterwards is not a problem.

-- A 50-50 mix of liquid dishwashing soap and a small paint brush is your friend. Especially so with installing the window/window seal and in installing the trim on the seal. You may find that after a while even when the trim walks out (and it will, trust me), you can just press it right back in with your hands. Wet your rope with your slicking agent as well -- it makes it a little easier to install it in the roping flange.

-- The roping itself: Make two overlapping loops of about 8 to 10 inches at the center top and the center rear. These are your starting points.

-- If it's not going, if things are misaligned, don't hesitate to start over, take a break etc. This may mean taping and re-taping all over again. Hey, there's that Nietzche guy again.

-- Stay with it. When it all falls into place, it's weirdly magical and almost like "Sheesh, that was too easy." You'll feel it when you're getting there and you'll be ready to high five your helper at that stage.

By the way, the HBL was cheating by using glue -- dum dum (non-hardening caulk) is OK, but glue-type windshield adhesives are a no-no when it comes to roped-in, gasketed windshields and rear windows.

Brian

[1982911SCTarga]

I read back through this thread and this is an important thing to remember:

On the re-try, I followed the factory workshop recommendation by making a loop overlap of my pulling rope at the bottom center of the window, with the ends of the rope crossing for a few inches at the top center. This allows you to pull from the bottom and then at the top. This is what the factory workshop manual advises -- pull in 7 inches or so at the bottom rear center and then pull in the top front. Keep things slippery and you'll need two people, one to press the seal in where you're roping and one to pull the rope. The person helping you needs to be a good listener and communicator to tell you what they're feeling and seeing. Following the intial roping (center bottom and top front), we roped in the front portion to where we were near the corners. After some careful slapping and positioning we went around the two sharp corners and stopped. We completed the roping in by going back to the rear and roping to the front.

Brian

[William Miller]

The glass is out, cleaned and up side down on my table saw (covered with plywood and a drop cloth folded up. I have a few 2x4's lying under the glass to hold the edges up off the table. I found it helpful to clamp the glass to the table with a huge wood clamp (wooden jaws) with a small plywood block to raise the top part of the clamp off the table. This allows all edges to be exposed and with the clamp in place, I can use both hands to work the rubber.
I might try and put another clamp on tomarrow.

The seal is clean from the mold release and I'm fitting it on the glass dry for a trial (maybe permanent) to mark the spots for the wires to cross between the channels in the seal.

Big Note: I almost gave up on the seal because it didn't look like it had the second channel for the wires. I then found the channel at one corner and worked it opne all the rest of the way arround. It seeled like the lip between the channels was still connected by a very thin attachment that needed to be broken apart. All is good now.

The seal is 95% on the glass now, but as you said the top corners want to work their way off.
I began taping them and had to stop for my daughters soccer game.

I'll be hitting this again in the morning, but there are 2 more games tomarrow and a Lacrosse awards lunch on Sunday afternoon.

I have no deadline to get this done so I'm not rushing and so far there has been little stress.
Thanks for your compilation of the process. If you feel like comming by, let me know. Hands will be needed twards the end of the project, but anytime during the process would be welcomed!

Thanks!

[1982911SCTarga]

Bill, it sounds to me like you're doing a great job so far. I've got a weekend of errands and events, too, but if you need hands next weekend I might be able to pitch in and help you out.

Brian

[William Miller]

Just an update.
I used the factory method that Brian mentioned and it all went together very easily.
I did it on my own because no helpers were avalible. In the absence of the extra hands, I did use the strap method to help hold the window down while pulling the string. Starting the string at the top and the bottom helped keep things even. The glass is slightly down, but 1000 times better than how the paint shop left things.
Now that I've done it and know how, it is Not the most daunting thing on the car.
It is definately not the nightmare people have mentioned many times on this board.
Patience is required.

Thanks for all the help!
__________________

[1982911SCTarga]

Hey, Bill, it was good talking with you the other day. Congrats on getting the job done!

Brian