starting to DIY maintenance...have basic questions

[86cabwhitefuchs]

My 6oK is coming up on my 86 cab and I'm told I'll need a fuel filter ( no accumulator on an 86, right?,) an oil cjhange and a valve adjustment. They also do a leakdown test at that time and cange the plugs. Total est. cost at my ( real good) local shop: 1200.00!
I can afford this, buy I could afford more car and other upgrades if I did my own maintenance, so I'm thinking about doing all this myself. I have two questions so far:1) do you need to jack up the car to change the oil, and 2)how do you jack up the car for the valve adjustment, and 4)have any of you used the "backside" method ( gauging at the cams) and why don't the pros use this method?
I am aware of all the threads on which oil to use, but there are so many that I thought I'd just ask if Kendall GT 20W50 would be ok ( it's a street-driven cabriolet, driven in lighter traffic at ambient temps of 60-90 degrees.

[cbeers]

Fuel filter, 5 minutes.
Valve adjust is doable, but mistakes are costly, your call.
Spark plugs can be a pain sometimes, but very much DIY.

Now, for your 'two' questions

1) no jack needed but depending on how low your car is you might have to drive up onto 2x4s or something. Make SURE you have an adequate drain pan, read up, it's not like any other car.

2) like any other time, either use the jack pad and side receptacle on the car or use the engine. Search on jacking methods to decide which you like best.
3)?
4) Again, search that out in the archives and you will see the differing opinions

Your oil is fine for summer, but I would think the colder months might like a lighter weight?

In the end, you have the right idea, do what you can to make the car more affordable to keep. Also, chances are that you will be more thorough than someone else and take the time to address issues that just come up while you are working on other things. It also teaches you about your car and that's always a good thing.

Lastly, do you have good books on hand? The Bentley manual and Wayne's 101 Projects books are golden for the home garage


-Chris

[holtjv]

$1200 is silly. Minus the leakdown (what will that REALLY do for you?) you can easily do all the basic stuff. Get Wayne's 101 Projects book, read through each thing you want to do thoroughly, search the board before doing it, then go for it!

Good luck! Jack

[glenncof]

I have '85 cab at 177K miles and have been doing my own work for awhile. Right, forget leakdown. I don't raise car to do oil, note two drain plugs. I've used 20W50 in N. Cal. You may want to consider Shell Rotella-T 5W40 synth in Minn. depending on oil consumption.

Valve adjust, I put wood blocks (4x4" and 2x4) under wheel on the side I'm doing. I did backside with good results. Fuel filter, did recently, just make sure it's cold so limited pressure (like overnight).

Also do plugs if it has not been done for awhile, spec is 2 years. I had one break off the base inside the engine. Needed 'easy-out' to remove! Bosch or NKG copper.

'86 has 915 tranny, I believe. Replace fluid with Swepco 201 dino (NO SYNTH!!)

[lespaul]

I found backside to be the way to go. Much easier for me than the traditional method. Read the threads about it and take your time.

[lespaul]

Also, as far as jacking goes -- I bought two drive up ramps for the front wheels. Drive up on them, set parking brake, put car in first, set chock blocks on rear wheels, put floor jack under engine with wood block for protection (as recommended in 101 Projects), jack up rear, put jack stands under rear torsion bar covers, check and double check for stability.

[Marco8]

As a new 911 owner I had done all the jobs listed (w/ the exception of the leakdown test).

First of all, if you plan on doing DIY work on your car you will need jack stands, floor jack and jack pad. Cost of these items range from $45 (el cheapo's don't recommend) up to several hundred (gold plated designed for Sherman tanks) Typical cost about $100.

The material costs for the oil change, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter (not on you list), plugs, rotor, caps, valve covers and hardware is about $150.

Then you need the info on these DIY jobs, while much can be found here on the forum and site, I do recommend getting yourself some books, 101 projects, Bentley's (out there as a free pdf if you know where to look) etc.

You will also need the appropriate tools and light.

If you have all these items, you are ready to begin.

Oil Change-easy, make sure you have a pan to accomodate the 11 qts of oil, and you drain at two points.

Air filter easy if you can get you arm behind the air box to get off two rear catches.

Fuel Filter-remove blower pipe for better access (leave it off if you are changing the spark plugs, and/or valve adjustment). Fairly Easy make sure you have a towels to catch gas from the filter.

Plugs- Driver side, have blower pipe removed for easy access, passenger side, move the AC compressor for easy access (read about this before attempting, wrap in towel to protect you car). Recommend using the tool from the 911 tool set (if you have it) with a allen wrench socket (I bought a variable angle spark plug socket from sears and its harder to use than the factory tool)
With the right tools fairly easy job. Cap and rotor very easy.

Adjusting valves first time, plan on this taking the whole day, because you will probably need to do it twice (at least I had to). Remove the tin around the covers as this allows you access to both the intake and exhaust valves from under the car. Also when you think you adjusted the valves just right, they are probably too loose, feeler gauge should not slide right out.

This job is not hard, especially if you have built up to doing it by completing several of the other tasks listed above. But right out of the shoot, doing this w/o building up some experience would be pretty tough to say the least.

Given this, I recommend you do the simplest jobs first and then do subsequent tasks over time, 1)jack up the car, oil and oil/airfilter change. 2)fuel filter. 3)plugs, rotor and cap. 4)valve adjustments.

Provide you have the appropriate tools and time, this job could be done for under $200 and you could use that 1000 for upgrades, tools etc. The reward for doing this job youself...priceless. Good luck

[sig_a]

DIY is not always less costly. If you have to buy a jack, 4 jack stands, tools, manuals, parts etc. you could spend $1200. The biggest issue is do you like to work on cars, and do you have the time?

[glenncof]

I don't use jack stands, several wood blocks. Just jacking and knowing where to support things is a mystery the first time.

Yea, just do some easy things and build up. There's plenty of info here. Study and plan out each project.

I would put off the valve adjust unless you know it needs it. I've gone much more than x2 recommended which I think is 15K.

It does save money but it's a hobby more so and you do get to consider minor upgrades/better parts.

[rusnak]

I just had these items done on my 911 by a local Porsche mechanic for $125.00.

He is sort of retired, but used to be the head mechanic at the local Porsche dealer. He works out of his garage at his house now.

Look hard enough, and you can find Porsche guys everywhere.

[randywebb]

You already have a jack for your car. (But get a scizzors type for safety at home or with a flat tire).

Buying a floor jack is just a way to make it a lot easier and faster. Some tasks can be done w/o the car in the air.

You'll spend at least $30 - $40 for jack stands. And the factory tool kit is quite capable.

For this minimal outlay, you will get to understand the car a lot better. Also, you spend time on checking things very carefully that most mechanics don't (rubber ball joint & CV boots for example). You will KNOW it was done.

You can start with small things - oil change; valve adjust; periodic checks and use a pro for the bigger jobs. In fact, I do that at some level. Indeed, at some level we ALL do that. Who here has built their own forge, for example (actually, I know a guy who did that just to build a wind tunnel...).

[rusnak]

I think jack safety can't be overstated to a novice home mechanic.

Many old timers, first timers, and DIYers have had regrettable shop accidents, and raising or lowering your 911 can cause more damage faster than just driving it on the street.

+1 on buying Wayne's 101 Projects book. If you do use a hydraulic floor jack, sweep the floor first so the jack wheels can roll. Otherwise your car can slip off of the jack. I usually jack up the um jack....and then re-check my contact point to make sure the car won't slip. I use overkill when jacking up the front of the car by using two floor jacks, and jacking the left and right in unison.

I stopped using the jack pad that slips into the side port receptacle years ago because it's just too slippery, and causes the whole car to rotate too much on tippy jack stands.

Bottom line, be careful. Avoid shop mishaps. Have fun.