Value Adjustment . That hard?

Eomak · 03-18-2007, 01:23 PM

Hi, just started on doing work and everything was going smoothly tell i came to the part where i have to turn the fanbelt to get it top dead centre. The rotor arm is facing opposite side so i crank it a few clock wise and seemed to be moving in the direction i wanted and it just got harder and harder to crank. Do u have use that much force to crank it around to top dead centre? Man my arms are tired trying to crank it for 2hrs.Am i missing something to disconnect? The dvd video tuneup makes it look so easy. I had the car sitting for a week without driving it make it harder to crank? I just don't want to strip the bolt on the fan using so much force trying to get it to turn around to top dead centre, thx.

cfc · 03-18-2007, 01:31 PM

cranking for 2 hours? What are you doing going to Cleveland?

Eomak · 03-18-2007, 01:41 PM

Ah , found the problem the car wasn't in neutral was in first gear.

JMatta · 03-18-2007, 01:58 PM

Other than neutral, wouldn't you take the plugs out so you're not fighting compression? Obviously, I don't do my own adjustments.

stevef · stevef's Garage

So you sould have got halfway to Seattle!

unclebilly · unclebilly's Garage

OK... I gotta say it... make sure the ignition is turned off!

crashmy911 · 03-18-2007, 02:40 PM

Atleast you didn't break anything!

Eomak · 03-18-2007, 03:09 PM

dam . another hill. I using that spec. feeler gage and i cant seem to slide it in between any of the value #1 or in other words what iam i looking for is where do i slide it in? Do i looseing it first to get the gage in. Its top dead center to #1 fire order. I can shake the arm a bit back and forth but doest seem to have a space to slide it in. Yes i am a noob its my first value adjustment please help . thx anyone have a picture that shows exactly the location? i seen the ones in the tech guide but there at an angle hard to c.

Hugh R · 03-18-2007, 04:00 PM

I loosen it first. Try starting with an exhaust valve first to get the look and feel, cause the intakes you'll be doing blind. After you've done them, rotate the engine and give each tappet a calibrated shake to make sure they have clearance and all feel about the same.

defcon65 · 03-19-2007, 02:01 PM

Don't pull the plugs when you adjust the valves; you run the risk of dislodging debris which may get caught between valve and seat, rendering your careful adjustment inaccurate...

rusnak · 03-19-2007, 02:20 PM

I don't remove the spark plugs either. I usually tighten the fan belt first, but sounds like yours is REALLY tight.

I'm thinking about using the backside method, but something tells me when I get there, I'll be staying with the tried and true.

wachuko · wachuko's Garage

I always remove the sparkplugs... since I will be replacing those during the adjustment anyway. Makes it easy to turn the engine...

lespaul · lespaul's Garage

IMO use the backside method. It is much easier. Tons of threads on it.

livi · 03-21-2007, 12:56 AM

I prefer the traditional method.

Place the feeler gauge further down on the valve stem to begin with. Then slowly drag it along the stem upward until you hit the gap. With a few twist and turns you should be able to insert the gauge into the gap. Likewise, it should take two or three twist with a slight resistance to remove it.

Don´t forget to go back and recheck the clearance once you are done.

Good luck!