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How to adjust throttle linkage?

Hello Pelicans,

Just installed the Steve Wong chip. His instructions highlight the need to check the throttle linkage. I have another inch to go to reach full wide open throttle. He said the adjustment is made next to the transmission. Does anyone have a picture or more clear instruction on how to make this adustment?

Thanks,
Old 04-28-2007, 04:23 PM
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No picture but hopefully I can describe it for you. On the driver's side of the trans there is linkage connecting the foot pedal to the rod that runs to the throttle body. These rods are adjustable by looseing the jam nuts and lengthening or shortening them. You really need a helper with this task. Have them hold the throttle wide open at the engine. You should be under the car, after safely jacking it up and using jack stands. (You can really just lift the driver's side for this but be safe.)

Pop the linkage off of the ball joint and determine what change is needed. You should be able to easily see where it needs to end up. The .ength of rod that runs to the engine will need to be adjusted at the throttle body. This is a PIA someitmes as it can be hard to reach in the engine compartment. The trans junction is simple. Check for binding when done and be sure the throttle closes completely BEFORE taking it out. It may take you a few trys but it willbe worth it.
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Old 04-28-2007, 05:20 PM
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The throttle linkage has adjustment in several spots one of them being on the drivers side of the trans. Get the car in the air and you will see some linkage where the throttle cable attaches and a metal rod that kind of looks like a clothes hanger. Once you are at that point you will probably be able to tell how to tighten up the cable side. An inch more to go sounds like too much?
Hope this helps,
Shawn
Old 04-28-2007, 05:25 PM
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I'm to slow of a typer : )
Old 04-28-2007, 05:28 PM
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Here you go

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Old 04-28-2007, 06:48 PM
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You can remove the threaded rod running between the ball socket and the end threaded into the rubber boot to clean and adjust. First pop off the socket from the ball. There should be a small pin fastener holding the ball in the socket which needs removal first. Then screw out the rod where it connects to the fitting on the end of the exposed rubber boot. You can also unscrew the ball socket from the threaded rod. I fixed a high idle problem disassembling, cleaning, lubing and reassembling. Adjusting the length of this rod should be your solution.
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:00 PM
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Thanks Guys!
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:33 PM
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I'm trying to this myself. What is the easiest way to seperate the ball and socket?
Old 10-20-2007, 07:24 PM
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They should just pop off using a little pull with your hand. You can GENTLY pry with a screwdriver as well. They just snap on/off.
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Old 10-20-2007, 07:27 PM
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ok, i'll give it another tug. thanks for your help
Old 10-20-2007, 07:55 PM
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using a pair of needle nose as a lever to pop them work great for that
Old 10-20-2007, 08:14 PM
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I spent weeks trying to adjust that gahdam linkage to get full throttle, and I understand what's goin' on but couldn't achieve it. Finally took it to the local Porsche shop. Sounds easy, but it's hard. Too hard for me.
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Old 10-20-2007, 08:57 PM
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Got it done. Thanks for the help. Off topic. Does the 1985 require thick flange SSi heat exchangers?
Old 10-21-2007, 09:31 AM
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Hey Fellas,

I noticed one day while sitting in my baby and I tapped the accelerator pedal and heard rattling sound from center tube area . I assume it was the throttle cable because of the immediate and relative reaction from my tapping.

Does this mean my throttle cable is too loose?

I am going to test for max throttle and adjust if needed.

Are there any side effects for this adjustment if done as stated above, i.e. Idle, Emissions, Cruise Control, etc?

Please advise,
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Old 11-11-2007, 11:07 PM
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hi folks! I have a question regarding a problem I have with my throttle linkage. I found this thread in the archives and the picture highlights a piece of the throttle linkage that I have the problem with. The linkage itself is fine, but the plastic piece that the linkage goes through as is passes from outside the car to the central tunnel has disentegrated and the throttle will not respond.
When I get the new plastic piece, can I replace it from inside the car, or do I need to go under the car?
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Old 07-23-2011, 05:48 AM
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Oh Dang, this is years ago. Thanks brother for trying to search button. That a is Awesome!

If your year is similar to my year then inside the cars. Here are the access point in the tunnel:

First one is in side the rear access panel for shift coupler in between the rear foot wells.

2nd one is under the heater/ebrake.

3rd is under the shifter assembly ( mark and remove )

I know it seem like allot of work but it is worth it to smooth out the throttle.

Have you tested to insure it is in fact binding in the tunnel?

I found if you disconnect at the bell housing then you can isolate the pedal from the throttle body assembly.

Cheers!

Jim
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:26 AM
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When I pulled over I didn't have a screw driver to remove the access port to the tunnel in front of the rear seats, so I couldn't check there but I could reach my hand under the car and use the connection point at the transmission to rev the engine and the spring return was working there. I also checked at the top of the engine and the throttle was moving freely so there was no binding along the linkage. When AAA arrived I borrowed a screw driver to check the access point where the shift coupler is also located. that's when I saw the problem. the little plastic piece that supports the linkage as it exits the car was in pieces inside the tunnel. at the pedal there is no spring loaded return and I can not use the pedal to get any throttle response. I could creep the car along in first gear to get it safely onto the flat bed and got it home.
here is the picture I took this morning of the linkage condition at the access point. I am trying to figure out the part number of the piece that needs to be replaced as well as the method for replacing it. it was in so many pieces that I could not figure out how it attached to the linkage.
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1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses.
http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/
Old 07-23-2011, 12:05 PM
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=901-423-227-00-OEM&catalog_description=Accelerator%20Rod%20Bushing%20 %283%20req%20in%20tunnel%2C%20sold%20individually% 29%2C%20911%2F911%20Turbo%20%281965-89%29



The one in the back, they are normally white in color, over time they turn yellow/orange

If that is the bushing, first you need to get all the debris out via the coupler access panel. Get a small mirror and you will see where it should mount.

In the mean time, while waiting for the part, you can use a piece of 3/8 rubber hose, cut it one side, lube the ID and mount it on the clips until the right part comes in.

With the mirror you can see the other two clips and hopefully the bushing if they are intact or not.
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Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 07-23-2011 at 01:13 PM..
Old 07-23-2011, 01:09 PM
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Ok, I was looking at that diagram but I didn't see that this was the bushing I needed. Thanks a million! I looked through the entire bentley manual and saw no guide to replacement of the throttle linkage. have you replaced this bushing? not sure how to go about it!
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1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses.
http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/
Old 07-23-2011, 01:14 PM
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I posted above. No problem Brother, YES I did replace them all.

REMOVE Both SEATS, shifter assembly ( mark the assembly housing and remove, you must put back in original orientation ), Remove Parking brake/Heater Controller Counsole and Couple Access Panel, Using a Bright Light and Small Mirror.

You will see what looks like Wire holders, two thin strips of metal tacked on the the tunnel, Those actually hold the bushings. Luckily the the bushings are split in design just slip over the rod, no need to disassemble the linkage.

Next is the heater/e-brake, appears to be difficult but it isn't just loosen the bolts and then move out of the way.

Last and easy one is the coupler access, move around the wires and you will see it
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Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace
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Old 07-23-2011, 01:25 PM
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