SWB 911R...the beginning

[cowfly911]

You are a saint for saving that soul. There is a place for you in Porsche heaven....

Thanks for sharing...

[kenikh]

Damn, Lars. It just gets better, doesn't it? WOW.

[RRico]

Amen to that!!!

[Mark020]

Great job. If only I could do this!

[dondarnell]

Any idea what you are going to do for the oil tank?

I am converting a '66 912 to a 911r (ish) as well. Tank issue is giving me fits.

You are a brave and good soul for saving that car. Mine was a bit better, but I'm up to 15k with the body guy, and not in paint yet.

[speedo]

I purchased a 1972 oil tank off the board. I have only seen pictures so far, but it is a 2 port console and I will need to reproduce the oil lines. I will need to machine the console to incorporate the thermostat, and as this will not be a determined race car, I may not retrofit a pressure relief valve. Grady has suggested I do so anyways.I will test mount the tank and figure out where to mount the fittings, where it will exit the fender....and how much to extend the filler neck. I plan to have the cap essentially surface mounted. I'll then remove it and begin the conversion. Anybody know what the correct cap size is on the original Rs? I may keep the stock filler cap size...depending on if I can find a Blau 4-hole flanged cap to match the existing filler receiver. I am thinking about creating the steel "radiused" filler hole on the bench...fit...cut the hole in the fender and weld it in vs cut the hole in the existing fender and attempt to radius the hole. The former allows me to position the hole exactly where I want it.

I also need to mount the hood and figure out the gas filler hole and coresponding placement on the SC tank....remove the existing filler and weld a patch.

I spoke too soon and maybe I am not done welding...at least the remaining work is creative vs structural.

[rennch]

Wow...I really wish you would have told me when you were doing the rockers. I wanted to be a fly on the wall. I guess you'll have to just do mine with me then.

[SCWDP911]

I am utterly speechless. I hope you win some sort of award for this, and if not, we need to make one up! Man, hat's off to you for sure. Wish I could see that work in person.

[ty901]

Originally Posted by speedo

Anybody know what the correct cap size is on the original Rs? I may keep the stock filler cap size...depending on if I can find a Blau 4-hole flanged cap to match the existing filler receiver.

speedo;
i thought them to be 80MM in aluminum. Martin Baker is making up steel 100MM "shark fin" caps for center fill gas tank mods. he also has the bung and extension tube. he may be a source for 80MM stuff. there was an early VW oil cap in 80MM and ALU, but it had a large VW logo stamped into the skin. if you're feeling adventurous, there're available @ ~ $25. i have Martin's contact info if you need it.
HTH
best
jerry

[RRico]

the oil tank filler cap is 70mm on all R's.

[speedo]

The centerfill tank issue has taken a direction. After researching the centerfill tank projects on this board and the "Early 911S Registry"...Grady and I talked about the safety issues with a neck sticking up through a steel hood...and the "what if" a front impact occurs. I started to obsess about the safest way to create a degree of flexibilty in the filler neck in the event of a front impact. I decided that the only safe install (for me...making no statement about others solutions) was to install the filler.cap below the surface of the hood. This however defeats the purpose of having a visible centerfill tank. So if I was determined to have the cap accessible and flush with the hood (which I am), I needed to come up with a way to allow the rigid neck to absorb that potential shearing force.

Grady suggested (and his post is pretty specific and detailed on Early 911S) that if the filler is flush with the hood, that the neck be two-piece and incorporate a rubber connection facilitating a flexibility in the case of a forward impact. My filler neck is 4 inches, and trying to find a 4 " ID rubber hose isn't easy. I called around and found that some of the big diesel trucks have intercooler hose that could be 4"...but nowhere to be found. Referrals led me to a Goodyear industrial distributor who set me up with a 1/4" wall thickness wire-stiffened rubber pipe that has an ID of 4". Rigid enough to keep the filler neck from bouncing off the sides of the hole in the hood while driving, and with enough flexibility to deform under impact. ...and not shear the neck off the gas tank, spewing gas all over the trunk. I picked up some heavy duty clamps to secure the rubber tube to the two pieces of filler neck.Here are the parts...cap, neck receiver,4" neck, dog bowl to invert and use as a catch/drain, the rubber and clamps.


I plan to extend the 4" neck into the tank 1 1/2 inches and let it extend 3" out of the tank. I will then mate it with the seperate neck/receiver filler/ cap. There will be at least a half inch gap between the steel neck pieces...and this space (held by the rubber sleeve)will also allow be to fine tune the height of the cap.

Hopefully this will come together this weekend.

Still looking for Blau (or similar) oil cap 70mm leads... Martin Baker can't be found currently.

[mikeferg75]

looking good!

I think it's about time for a boulder bench racer lunch don't you?

Ferg

[Jeroen]

smart thinking!
now, if you could fit a one way flapper valve into to the tube section below the flex, that'd be really great

[kenikh]

I've known a few folks that have followed Grady's template and it always turns out great. Now if you are really into it, you can do like one of the RGruppers and graft an old VW beetle tank (pre filler door kind) onto the top Porsche tanks and expand capacity to 110 liters like the old endurance racers had. Not 100% legit, but VERY cool.

[SoCal70RSR]

speedo,

I found this graphic some time ago on the early 911s registry. The circle in red is an interesting mod you could possibly do to the bottom of the 4 inch tube (the part that goes into the tank). It should allow you to pour gasoline in, a bit slower but in case of an accident it should't allow a whole lot of gasoline to go up the tube... just a thought.

[Grady Clay]

Fernando,

That is my graphic from an Early S Regestry post.
I'll find the link. There is much more to it.

I think I sent Lars the link a few years ago when he was working on his '71 racer.

Best,
Grady

[SoCal70RSR]

Thanks Grady, I wish I had seen this graphic when I was working on my center fill. There's a lot of good info.

[BlueSideUp]

That design should reduce the amount of static electricity that builds up when you fill the tank with a long neck like that. I used to fuel airplanes and we used to attach a long tube to the end of the fill handle when refilling the fuel truck from the ground tanks. According to the fuel distributor having the fuel drop even a few feet and splash around causes a static electricity/vapor hazard.

[Grady Clay]

Fernando,

I don’t recall if it was this Ely S post or somewhere on Pelican but I discussed having the fittings at the fuel cell protected and allowing the cell to move out of position in a crash, not stressing the hose connections.

There is a lot to do with safety when dealing with the fuel system.

I suppose I can’t stress that enough.

Even Porsche’s original 911 design leaves room for improvement. We have that opportunity with racers or cars like Lars’. You can even re-do yours with increased safety.

One of my ‘when I get around to it’ projects is a fuel cell inside a modified stock tank. I want to eliminate the provision for the spare tire and just have a large (200+L?) tank with in the trunk fill.

Best,
Grady

[SoCal70RSR]

Here's something we came up as a ground tab as well as a method to keep the gas tank from moving around and damaging the opening on the hood.

It does help to keep the tank from moving, and all I hope is that it's enough of a ground!!