door handle lock & key barrel replacement.

[Jaz]

Hi

My car was only provided with a key for the ignition barrel, and currently the door-locks are running off the remote alarm set up. As a precaution I want to get working the door handle barrels and key working properly by installing replacement barrels.

The reason why I want to get the key/door handles working is prompted by the recent remote central locking set-up failing due to actuators being overcome by resistance of the mechanical locks, the mechanicals locks were de-greased (with white spirit), WD40'd then re-greased (with lithium grease) all in situ... remote locking all working now, just want to getthe key&barrel locking working next.

I've had similar problems with my previous VWs and as precaution I've also ensure I can get in and out by using the door handle key entry, especially in winter lock freeze-ups.


THE PROBLEM:
I've bought a replacement key & lock barrel for the drivers side (Right) door handle, when I turn the barrel to lock (into the horizontal position) the key does not come-out in that position, it will only come-out in the vertical position which is the open postition...no good.


MY ASSUMPTIONS:

The key slot in 12to6 O-clock (the vertical) position is the open position,

The key slot in 3to 9 O-clock (the horizontal) position is the closed position.

Should I get the new lock barrel & its key working, then I could override the remote alarm central locking, esp in winter lock jams, as I did for my VWs.

Any pointers, advise and solutions will be much appreciated.

Regards,
Jaz


1983 black 911 supersport.

[slammed1000]

when i purchased a car that came without door lock keys i took the handles off and took the cylinders out. they were different so i just took them to my local lock shop and they re-configured the lock and keyed them the same. that would be my sugestion as locks are expensive to buy....

[mthomas58]

Originally posted by Jaz
Hi

the mechanicals locks were de-greased (with white spirit), WD40'd then re-greased (with lithium grease) all in situ... remote locking all working now, just want to getthe key&barrel locking working next.

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Sorry I can't offer any advise.........but I've got to degrease and re-lube the lock mechanism before this winter b/c when it get cold the driver side auto lock sticks........

any tips on doing this?

Thanks!

[safecracker]

The key should only come out in the vertical position. ( the open chambers are at 12 & 6 oclock in the existing handle) Assuming you are putting a different cylinder in the existing handle, my guess is a timing issue. The pawl (tailpiece) on the back is not moving properly when you turn the key. Will the key turn both directions? Were the cylinders exactly the same to each other?

[Jaz]

Hello SAFECRACKER

key/and barrel is spinning in directions from to 12 to 3 to 6 then to 9 o-clock position , but I cannot take the key out in the 9 & 3 o'clock postion (the closed position).

The cylinders are exactly the same. But ironically I havent seen the original one work so in that respect I may be barking up the wrong tree.


Hello MTHOMAS


You have to strip the inner cards off and completely take-off the inner handle brackets.

Put "white spirit" into a window cleaner style spray dispenser and spray copiously into
a) the lock inner lock mechanism ( at the catch)
b) manual knob hinge mechanism
c) door handle release spring and its hinge.

Using a toothbrush dissolve all traces of the old grease in all springs, between plates, levers and anything that moves; tease and move it if you can, and repeat the spray and brush until all old grease-grit -rust is removed leaving behind a very shiny mechanism that moves with very little resistance .

Then soak up and wipe off all traces of the white spirit, then spray copious amounts of WD40 into a to c (listed above) and move and tease the mechanism to ensure it get into all moving parts, then wipe off the excess.

Then liberally apply lithuim grease into all springs, between plates, levers and anything that moves, and wipe of excesses.

and Thats it.

[SXSMAN]

I like to buy your old lock cylinders for parts , I need to re-key mine .

Let me know , SxS

[safecracker]

I am confused, why do think you the key should come out in the horizontal position. I could be wrong, but I thought your handle is like my 1986 where the key is always in the vertical position. I still think you have a timing linkage problem.

Here is the way to tell for sure. With the cylinder out of the handle, there should be a rectangular opening at 12 & 6 oclock position outside of the circle that the cylinder fits into. These openings are what allow the wafers (tumblers) to go into when you pull the key out. If your handle has these opening at 3 & 9 oclock, then the key should come out in the horizontal position.

[Jaz]

Hi Safecracker,

It was my assumption as I never seen a working lock on my car hence to assume locking was in the 3to9 postion (horizontal), but from what you are saying it appears that the say the barrel will unlock and locking always in the 6to 12 postion (vertical) when the key is rotated 180 degrees.

[WPOZZZ]

It is pretty easy to re-key the lock on the car as I have done it before. All you need to do is line up the pins to the proper height with the key in the cylinder. Lots of trial and error, but pretty easy to do.

[Jaz]

thanks WPOZZZ,

That's real thinking outside of the box,

I will try and line up the pins to the key.

Regards,


Jaz

[spuggy]

Jaz,

On my '77, the key is inserted vertically.

A 90 degree turn clockwise unlocks the door, and the key is returned back to the original vertical position to be removed.

It won't turn 180 degrees because it won't turn past 90..

Hope this helps.

[safecracker]

Spuggy, exactly, it does turn 180 degrees total, but as you said, it is 1/4 clockwise and 1/4 turn counter-clockwise.