help please - removing 85-89 Carrera CVs?

[byndbad914]

I have these axles on my car and tore the outer boots. The boots are clamped to some "gold" pieces that appear to be crimped onto the outside of the CV joint.

It appears the only hope I have for replacing the outer boot is to actually remove the inner CV and boot, then slide the old boot off the outer (the outer CV assembly is clearly crimped together and carries the stub axle as an integral piece so I ain't getting that off).

I don't see how to get the metal piece off that goes over the inner CV so I can take that CV assembly off. Can't someone please explain how they have gotten those apart?

[john walker's workshop]

if you remove the outer axle nut, which is real real tight, and remove the lower shock bolt, the whole axle can be removed. it is possible to remove the inner joint and replace the outer boot in the car, but it's kind of a pain. the outer joint does not come off the axle.

[Nine9six]

Remove the six bolts attaching the axle to the trans.
Remove the wheel, and the big axle bolt as explained by John Walker. That axle nut is torqued to something like 255 ft lbs., so make sure you have a 3/4 or 1" drive socket and a cheater bar.
After you remove the nut, and the lower rear shock mount, the whole assembly will slide out.
Hope this helps.

[Hugh R]

If you haven't done it yet. Get some spray brake cleaner and clean the sockets of the allen bolts out real good and make sure you use a new allen wrench socket and make sure its seated real well in those holes, and undo real straight. If you round them off, you in deep dodo. Do a search for the "Ultimate CV Joint" thread a long read, but well worth it. FOCUS on what Grady Clay has to say, especially about reassembly and tightening the NEW allen bolts back. Use NEW Schnoor washers.

[KCinBR]

The parts you are talking about can be removed by tapping around the edges with a hammer and screwdriver, it's a tight fit.

The boot kits that I bought came with new parts (the one in question dont know the name)

[byndbad914]

Originally posted by KCinBR
The parts you are talking about can be removed by tapping around the edges with a hammer and screwdriver, it's a tight fit.

The boot kits that I bought came with new parts (the one in question dont know the name)

Thanks KC - I will try that tomorrow. I was told the new boots will come with those metal pieces as you mention, so I can be a bit cavalier in hammering away I think I just didn't want to go and start hammering away at something that I wasn't sure about.

I must have been somewhat unclear about my first post - I already had the axles out and on the bench which I think you picked up on. I built the whole car from the ground up by myself (minus the tube chassis) so I go that far hahaha you would think I could figure out those CVs. It looked like I just need to hammer and punch/chisel away but needed some reassurance I wasn't overlooking something less obvious.

[Dixie]

You'll need the tool to install the boot bands. Some people simply use zip ties. That approach has never proven successful for me. The tool isn't that much money, and results in a snug leak-free seal.

[Nine9six]

Originally posted by Capt. Carrera
You'll need the tool to install the boot bands. Some people simply use zip ties. That approach has never proven successful for me. The tool isn't that much money, and results in a snug leak-free seal.

+1 on using zip ties...Never had a leakage problem with them.

[byndbad914]

yeah, I was going to try zip ties but figured I would probably buy the tool instead. I used (borrowed) those pliers when I put the axles in to move the inner CV boot inward so as not to hit the frame and it does work pretty slick. Apparently my friend left his at his old job so I probably need to not be such a cheapskate and buy a set now.

[88-diamondblue]

Check this link out. Carrera CV

I did both of the boots on each axle. The outside piece that the boot attaches to does not come off without destroying it. Do a search as there is more info on cv boot replacement and checking condition of the cv joint.

[Joe Bob]

I don't use the bands OR zip ties, I use s/s screw/hose clamps. Most Marine stores carry them.

BTW, I happen to have a pair of rebuilt SC axles with new boots, fresh grease and cleaned/inspected CV.....make me an offer.

[Monza_dh]

I just finished this project and used the CV clamps form the Pelican kit. I also found the clamp pliers at Autozone within thier rental set. worked like a charm.

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by mikez
I don't use the bands OR zip ties, I use s/s screw/hose clamps. Most Marine stores carry them.

BTW, I happen to have a pair of rebuilt SC axles with new boots, fresh grease and cleaned/inspected CV.....make me an offer.

SC's axles are different than post 85.5 Carrera axles.
-Chris

[ChrisBennet]

I've taken the out CV's apart once because I had to. I asked a friend to press off the inner CV and he ended up pressingthe outer CV's off too (!). I cut the metal "cap" part of the out CV around a channel and put it it back together using aluminum duct tape. Actually I tried normal duct tape the first time and it melted straight away. The aluminum tape lasted for years.
-Chris

[byndbad914]

wow, turning into a great thread. What the fro would we have all done without the net? I almost forget how hard it was to build my first car back in the late-80s thru early 90s and try and figure out everything on my own

So I got to the part today after only 3-minutes of time to knock off both metal pieces which were a piece-o-cake and simply a big screwdriver and hammer process and then...

that was the point where I determine the CV is both pressed and C-clips. I mean, seriously, this is where the Germans hit the pipe a little hard. I too being encumbered with just enough gray matter to become an engineer understand why press-fit is better than slip fit, but is the outer splined stub-axle press fit? Then why the inner?
Would be a smarter move IMO to just slip fit both and C-clip for ease of replacement but engineers tend to not think about the poor ba$tard that buys the car. Anyway, I digress...

So I need to just bite the bullet and get a press from Harbor Freight. After moving to a CO from CA in January I am realizing just truly how valuable all my connections in LA/OC really were. The harder part will be getting it back on with the press since there ain't much to grab on the axle to hold it while I press the CV center.

edit - oh yeah, Mike, do you have the 'integral' outer stub axle setup and so forth?

haha edit2 - just read Chris's post.

[89911]

Why not just put 2 new axles in and be done with it? I haven't check since I did these myself, but has the price gone significanly higher?

[byndbad914]

I think they are around $300/side and boots are maybe $25 each... and they have about 20 hours on them at best so no reason to replace new with new. I just f'd up and cranked in a bunch of negative camber with my setup that already has somewhat aggressive axles angles and the boots must have rubbed on the inside of the trailing arm. I just didn't see this rushing the setup.

I am going to bias plys when my Kodiaks show up (if they ever do, at week 11 on a 6-8wk quoted time) and won't need anywhere near the camber the radials do so I don't think I will have an issue in the future. Haste makes waste hahaha.

[Joe Bob]

I bought a new axle on both sides when my 25 year old units gave it up......new boots, new grease, new bolts.....something like 260 delivered. Pull the wheel, take the old POS out and slam in the new one....with my air tools it took me 20 minutes, but I've had practice.

Regreasing CVs sucks, it's a filthy ******* job....be advised, the new CVs and the gold plates are thinner and you need shorter bolts. Make sure you order them as well as new Schnor (wavey) washers....if ya use the longer ones they pass thru the falnge and the wheel won't turn....ask me how I know.