Do you have any of these and why do they not show up on any parts diagrams?

Yes I do have those, its part #1 (it should be stitched into your top... you have 3 holes on each side to bolt the frame to the body then you see that smaller hole, thats where that bracket goes and it attaches to the end of the tensioner cable for the bottom part... I am still trying to find a side shot.....

I apologize you are right on part 1 I thought it was something else so I need to get that part for my roof to fit right.

That part DOES show up in my PET parts diagram. It is called a tensioner blade 911 561 342 01 RH, 911 561 341 01 LH and locating peg 911 561 331 00 the hex nut M6 is 900 076 062 07. It is held down to the body with a hex bolt at the front (M6 x 10) and the locating peg goes in the long horseshoe-shaped "clamp" at the back. Looks like the hex nut on the locating peg is used to adjust tension. All these parts are identical from 1978-1989 model years.

Sorry but I'm not too keen on disassembling this thing just to take pictures. My top works perfect and seems very well adjusted and I would hate to foul it up. Hopefully my description will help.

The tensioner blade does not mash down on the soft rubber gasket that fits on the ridge on top of the body. It just rests on top of it. The tensioner blade is inside the top fabric and hidden by the wide inner molding that is glued and screwed down. The front of the blade is about 1.5" from the piece that the front of the soft gasket fits into. Arrow in pic points to front end of tensioner blade. Hold down bolt is inboard of the soft gasket.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186942725.jpg

that helps a bit... so that tensioner blade does not touch the gasket, its just the bottom of the top that sits against the gasket? So really nothing sits directly in top of the gasket, its just a close fit?

Trying to get the pic in my head... thanks for your efforts...

Here are the blades out of the car. I was wrong - there isn't a pocket for them but a flap that folds over them and is held in place by those little sharks teeth that fold over. Sorry the side view didn't show up that well. Basically, you are probably ok setting about half an inch up from the body.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186977765.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186977796.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186977823.jpg

Good deal Oklahoma foreign who I bought the roof from is sending me a pair of tensioner blades for my roof as they didn't realize they weren't in the package and I was too ignorant to know I needed them. Not to stump for anyone but this kind of service is why I go back to them I bought that roof many months ago.

Mike this is how you can pay me back, You have helped me to fix a problem I would have had 6 months from now when I was putting my roof back on and I thank you. Now to answer a question you asked yes I have a bodyman lined up he is so busy because he is that good that he has no room in his shop for my car so I made arrangements for him to come over when he feels like it and do the car in my shop. May take longer but the driving season is already just about over for me so its no problem. Also I have the seats for the car now they are hunsacker racing seats look pretty good.

man thanks for the update group911... Any chance you can tell me (or someone) how tall the lip is that the expensive gaskets sit on... #16 I think they were... I have some alum angle I am thinking on using for my short time fix... I figure I can make the same bends and rivet??? Or I AM go to a body shop and see what they will charge me to tac something in that will not cause me to repaint??

As far as the gap i have.. it sits about 1/2 inch to about 1/4 give or take.. I have only eyeballed it... but with the lip on the body it will be real close I am thinking??

Any thoughts...



gsmith... I am glad I provided you with some sort of help... I hope to continue that in someway in the future for others, even if its just by me asking questions and providing good results...

FYI that heater lever contact (that is what its called) is part number 5 on the diagram and costs 30 bucks threw pelican...

You should be able to have a welder tack them in place without messing up the paint if they TIG weld them in and use heat paste to keep the heat away from the paint you should be okay the factory conversion used mig to tack and tig to fill weld without affecting the paint it is doable the height is about a quarter inch it is a continuation of the rib that your targa window seal sat around good luck

just have the welder use some 16 gauge sheet metal 1\4 inch tall and use my photos to show him how to for it for the bends be sure to put that little tab on there as it is where the long seal and short seal meet for support.

OK.. I will go find someone and get some feedback on what they can and cant do... I am not ready to get any paint work done... Where you think I should go? Body Shop??? How would I know who could do a really good job?

Any good welder should be able to do this Its not likely that a body shop will have TIG welding but I could be wrong. A welder worth his salt is going to have a tig welder and heat paste to protect the paint and fire blanket to protect the roof and interior carpet. Right now I would think you could get by with a few(2 or 3) strong tacks on each one so it wont break loose and then when you take the roof off for painting or to recover you have the rest welded up. I dont think this rib takes much stress it just holds the gasket in position. Be sure to prime the bare metal can even be white to prevent rust until you can get it completely welded up. Let me know what you come up with. I live in a small hick town and we have a welder I would trust to do this so I am sure you could find someone.