Calling all 911 cab owners... HELP
 

I have a targa to cab conversion that needs help. It is missing trim and who knows what else. can someone post pics of what I am missing please... If you have some trim for sell let me know.

this is a diagram I found... wondering if 26 will help me out?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...ATALOG-403.jpg

also is there a weather gaskit on the door as well as the body (door jam)?


see this pic: it is not my car but you see how its not trimmed out near the door:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1149022103.jpg

and you see the extra parts on this car (I dont have them) How do I get them?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1149022120.jpg


As you can see with my car (and these pics are old its worse than you see) It does not look right I would like to get it cleaned up... Please help..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185159044.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185159582.jpg


I am going to take better pics this evening and post so someone can tell me what I am missing and also what to do to make it look like stock...

Please post as man pics as you guys can so I can see what I need... I just dont have anything to look at to see what I am missing is all. (no 911 cabs near me).

Thanks guys hope someone can help me out.

You need 26 and 10.

Here is a page form the manual I found on the internet before buying my factory Cab. This page lists all the trim parts you need with part No's
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z11/nyne_11/manual-22.jpg
Cheers.
dave

I have a pair of #26 from my C2.

You are missing the short gaskets that go under the pivot frame and the leatherette trim that can be shown between the rear interior trim and the pivot also the plastic trim inside around the pivot to hold down and finish off the door seal as well as the short seal under the pivot. The leatherette trim is hard to come by I have 2 sets but are really not wanting to part with either because of how hard they were to get might try oklahoma foreign for a used set should be about 200 for the pair a little lower than the oem replacement at 300+ sorry Wayne but some P-Car parts are way overpriced for what they are.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HTML/911_USA_84_86_KATALOG/807-07-Frame3.htm for the plastic trim it is more reasonalble at 10 bucks or so (adjust for the year you need they are different)

man.... you guys are really coming through...

My list:
part # 10 (x2) (10 is for the cone washer) - do you mean 6 (Man thats steep)
6 OEM-91155507760700 Rear covering 1 $332.85
(6) OEM-91155507860700 Rear covering 1 $332.85

part # 26 (x2) Cance will yours fit? if so pm me a price and pic)
26) OEM-91155576363 Cover 1 $10.88
26 OEM-91155576463 Cover 1 $10.88

short gaskets that go under the pivot frame (Is this part # 16?)
(16) 911-561-463-00-M100 Gasket Brand: Genuine Porsche 1 $41.50
16 911-561-464-00-M100 Gasket Brand: Genuine Porsche 1 $41.00


(you sure you don't want to sell) :) - is this the same as 6?
leatherette trim that can be shown between the rear interior trim and the pivot
plastic trim inside around the pivot to hold down and finish off the door seal as well as the short seal under the pivot.

any chance you can help me find part numbers for all this and point me to the parts? Anyone who has these parts and would like to help a new 911 guy out please pm me and show me what you have... I am pretty disappointed with the way that area looks....

If I can help anyone in any way I will... I am about to start making those rsr door panels ( I have a whole box of door boards and all I need is a template) I have gray vinyl and tweed so far... I can also make anything else yo may need... (within my ability)...
Mike

Should have had my glasses on. It is #6 instead of 10. On #26, early and late are different but I'm not sure on an interchange.
I have both in stock and have #6 in stock as well. E-mail me for pics.
Thanks, Bob

email sent

My car is a targs converted cab (1982) so I am guessing I need parts from a 1983 cab??

Yeah I'm sure the leather trim is real hard to find like I said Okla. Foreign can look for you they are pretty goodthe other parts are correct as well part 26 is based on 83-84 cab conversion done by the factory and 84 and later factory built I have an 84 roof and the part I got is not exactly right but can be modified to work also depends on power or manual roof I think the pics you show are a power roof (am I right?) that migh have some bearing

sorry redundanant your post wasnt on there while writing my previous post

the roof in meant to be power, but I do not have it hooked up, only have the power locks working... the rest is Manuel.

How does the short gasket go on?
short gaskets that go under the pivot frame (Is this part # 16?)
(16) 911-561-463-00-M100 Gasket Brand: Genuine Porsche 1 $41.50
16 911-561-464-00-M100 Gasket Brand: Genuine Porsche 1 $41.00


does it just glue down? wish I had better pics of these things. the short gasket (#16) must just glue down under the area where I have a 1/2 inch gap (hate this).. then the (#26) must screw into the end to cap it off (bet this cleans it up).. and last the (#6) rear covering.. is this the material that lays over the inside to hide all the frame work?

I will call Okla. Foren and L.A. Porshe Dismantelers on #6... that is pretty steep for me right now. But if #26 and #16 will get rid of that big gap I have then I will buy them asap...

please confirm one more time for me and I will get those from someone or somewhere (thoughts?)

Mike

Can you guys tell me how the short gasket goes on? I have orderd all the parts except the one that me an group911 are working on (I hope)... But I would like to know how these items go on:

(Part #16)
911-561-463-00-M100 Cabriolet Top to Body Seal, Left, 911 Carrera 2/4 (1989-94), 911 Turbo (1989), Each
Brand: Genuine Porsche [Photo] [view in parts diagrams]

911-561-464-00-M100 Cabriolet Top to Body Seal, Right, 911 Carrera 2/4 (1989-94), 911 Turbo (1989), Each
Brand: Genuine Porsche [Photo] [view in parts diagrams]

(part #26) (with the door seal caps)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
OEM-91155576463 $10.88 1 $10.88
REAR INT TRIM
- This is a special-order OEM part and is non-returnable except for
warranty replacement.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
OEM-91155576363 $10.88 1 $10.88
REAR INT TRIM
- This is a special-order OEM part and is non-returnable except for
warranty replacement.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
OEM-91153152365 $3.93 2 $7.86
DOOR SEAL CAP
- This is a special-order OEM part and is non-returnable except for
warranty replacement.

----------------------------------------------------------------------


The thing I am worried about is this... My conversion looks lik it was not done exactly like factory.. (they did not use the factory kit) it was more of a custom job... so I am afraid something will not mesh up. Im going to borrow my buddies camers in a few so I can try to provide good pics. But for the mean time picture this:

notice what it looks like after the targa bar has been removed, there is a squareish retangle there... well they welded a flat piece inside that area and bolted the top there...
http://rennlight.com/howto/cab/5000115d.JPG


Now notice here what the factory kit looks like, you will see that there is a lip that runs along the body to the bracket..
http://rennlight.com/howto/cab/5000115e.JPG

Pics are from http://rennlight.com/howto/cab/index.html (thank you for a wonderfull web site...... (I would love to have one of his hard tops)

I cant thank you all enough for your help... I wish we were all closer so I could learn a thing or 2... I am not aware of anyone near me with a 911.

group911.. Ill send you a email soon....

anyone with a cab willing to take some detailed pics so I can try to figure out how the short gasket goes in? as well as the trim parts... I would like to see if there is anything else I am missing.... I also ordered the weatherstripping for the doors.....

My cab is an 88 but it looks about the same. Here are some pics. Most of the #16 gasket is covered by the fabric top but pics show detail of how it has a channel that fits on the sheetmetal and is captured under the end-piece. The last pic shows the hard plastic trim that surrounds the opening for the top mechanism at the top of the inner carpeted body panel.

I am certain that all is original and in place on my car. Hope this helps.

Man! Looking at those close-ups makes it obvious the interior needs a cleaning.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185727662.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185727740.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185727830.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185727859.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185727883.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185728216.jpg

msterling, thank you for the pics... Now at least I have an idea any way.... the only thing I may have trouble with is that channel or lip that I see on yours.... Thank You so much for your pics......

I wonder if my top does not have that channel if I could just glue it in?

Msterling thanks from me also I just did a cab. converstion on my 76 and now have closeups of the only area I still had questions about how it all fit togetherhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185762563.jpg

You have the right concept I am in the building stages of my cab. conversion if you have an ele. roof then you are later than 85 I believe (does it have roller latches or hook latches?) if you are scared by the price of the wire harness for the elec. top you might try getting someone like stoddard imports to fax you a copy of the wire harness and make it your self I have done that on my mirrors and windows 83 and maybe 84,85 were the only years for hook latches roller latches are later this makes a difference on some trim parts. Jerry

gsmith, I am guessing I have rollers (the electric locks) I hope that means the parts I ordered will fit OK? I have already ordered the parts above (16, 26 and door weatherstripping as well as others)... I still don't have a dig camera.... but working on that so I can post pics of my conversion... Should have my parts (some of them) by the end of the week... few of them were dealer orders I guess.... As far as the electric roof part I didn't plan on hoOKing it up any time soon, I still need the brain and transmission and linkage.... no hurry there it works just fine the way it is (for now).... Ill tell you the only things that bothers me on this car...

1. the gap I have where the top meets the body near the door (about 1/2 inch or better) LoOKs like crap.

2. the rear bumper (c2 fiberglass) is loose, it dropped a little so there is a gap below the pass side tail light (you can pick up on the bumper and it will move back up) Just need to figure out how to make it move up and stay up...

3. my heater does not work, will not even blow air... I can only get air out of the ac blower (which I have removed due the the fact that most of the parts were gone when I got it)...

Out of these things the the gap under the top bothers me most with a close second on the bumper.... One at a time Ill do my best to remedy this.

Now the only way I can get that short gasket in there is to glue it unless I have a body guy weld in that lip I am missing... and I am guessing that I should only do that if I am ready to repaint (and I'm not)... so one would think that glue of some sort (weather stripping type) would work... I just need some good stuff.

I almost wish someone with a cab conversion would chime in and show pics of there work... gsmith feel free to show your work... would love to compare to what I have...

:)

The parts for the top are all reasonable at OK. For. I checked when I was deciding on whether I wanted to cut my windshield frame off or not for a power roof.
1. the seal will take care of the gap along with the rest of the parts they work as a system.
2. without pics its hard to help as my bumpers are stock.
3. I dont have a heater as this car was originally in Hawaii and when I moved home I pretty much dont drive it when then the weather turns cold.

On the lip a good welder using heat paste can weld on enough of the lip to help you or as a last resort and not as finished looking you can make the lip out of sheet metal with a 90 bend and rivet it in place I will take pics of both as there is a short piece that holds the very back of the gasket in place I will tack some pics as soon as the rain lets up here.

Thanks, I will also try to get some pics as well... just need to locate a dig. camera... May have one by the end of the day.. Ill be looking for those pics...