Something else to help:

3.2 engine harness

1. yellow - starter Kl.50
2. red - source from alternator Kl.30 ( or B+ )
3. green/black - Oil temperature Instrument
4. green/red - Oil pressure Instrument
5. red/green - from ignition.( Kl.15 ) to backup light switch
6. gray/brown - backup light switch to lights
7. free
8. brown/black - temp switch for fresh air blower
9. green/white - Oil pressure idiot light
10. free
11. blue - alternator control light Kl.61 ( or D+ )
12. free
13. black/yellow - power source for fresh air blower
14. red - source from alternator Kl.30 or B+

from looking at the above:
female:
5 - gray/brown
6 - is blank wint the pin and no wire (and the green/yellow looks like it would fit there fine (exact length where it broke)

but
male:
5 - green/yellow
6 - red white stripe

shouldnt it be same color?

on my wiring diagram from your engine harness the grn\yell wire should be in position 5 and the gy\brn wire should be in position 6 on the 14 pin in my diagram for the 82 sc the wires should be the same as the engine harness. you need to hook up a pin for your grn\yell wire and put in pin 5 find the gy\brn wire in the engine harness and move to pin 6 Im still looking for what the red\wht wire goes to on the main harness side move the gry\brn wire to pin 6 and find the grn\yell wire in your main harness and move it to pin 5. These are per the factory repair manuals. I will let you know as soon as I figure out what the red\wht wire goes to.

both sides of the pin aren't always (sometimes rarely) the same colors. Is the wiring harness an SC or a Carrera?

it looks like on the female side the back up wires occupy 5 and 6 which are right accross from one another:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186080542.jpg

now should these wires be the same on both sides ie:

if I have 5 as brown/gray and 6 yellow/green

would it go to the same color on the other side? (I see your reply)

its carrera off the motor and I am not sure on the other side... the colors above are close but I can double check anyone of them to be sure?

Here's the engine compartment side of a '78 - I think it's the same as your '82:

Edit: See below.

OK later in the day and I have had food:
I wanted to check the wires agn with having read your list kaefer I was in a better mind set

here it is for a second glance (dirty wires)

Male:
1 - yellow
2 - blank
3 - green/black
4 - green/red
5 - green/yellow
6 - grey/brown
7 - blank
8 - blank
9 - green/white
10 - red/white
11 - blue/white
12 - black/violet
13 - yellow/black
14 - red

Female
1 - yellow
2 - blank
3 - green/black
4 - green/red
5 - pin no wire
6 - grey/brown
7 - blank
8 - blank
9 - green/white
10 - blank
11 - pin no wire
12 - blank
13 - yellow/black
14 - red

female broken wires at 14 pin plug:
red - could be 2. red - source from alternator Kl.30 ( or B+ ) or 14. red - source from alternator Kl.30 or B+ 3.2 chart
brown/black could be - 8. brown/black - temp switch for fresh air blower (3.2 chart from above)
blue - could be - 11. blue - alternator control light Kl.61 ( or D+ ) 3.2 chart...
green/yellow - back up wire I am sure

Now would my first step be to solder the pins back on a few of those wires? I only have 2 pins to use (will need to get some, I hope the relay panel will have this plug)...

let me know
and have I said thanks enough yet? I do really appreciate the help...

This is how I plan to wire up my bare bones '81:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186173450.jpg

***That broken blue wire is critical. I think that's what triggers the alternator to charge***

I'd wait until you have the new panel in hand as it looks like it has the 14 pin plug (male/female) with at least some wiring attached. See green arrow in picture.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186085010.jpg

OK, good advice I think... It should be here tomorrow or the next day....

from what you see would you say this looked right for the plug though?

female broken wires at 14 pin plug:
red - could be 2. red - source from alternator Kl.30 ( or B+ ) or 14. red - source from alternator Kl.30 or B+ 3.2 chart
brown/black could be - 8. brown/black - temp switch for fresh air blower (3.2 chart from above)
blue - could be - 11. blue - alternator control light Kl.61 ( or D+ ) 3.2 chart...
green/yellow - back up wire I am sure


I will call it a day for now... you know where I can get a plug for the reverse switch? I don't like the way they did it.... (cheep electrical male connectors).

Also if I wanted to test this theory, could I touch the green/yellow wire to the pin it needs to be on (pin 5 per my chart?)

You are getting there good job absolutely wait until you have the new panel then go from there. I have been out welding up some trouble spots on my car just about got the final fit up of all the planels and then I can finish bodywork I did the same thing years ago I let someone paint my car that talked a good story but as I get into this restore I found where he cut corners and where there had never been rust I am patching because he didn't seal things up right.

For now I would not be messing with any of the wires. Wait until the new panel shows up!

I will let you guys know when I have my hands on the relay panel... thnx for everything

gsmith:
yup, next thing on my list is to pull all the wheels and check for possible rust areas and take care of anything I can find and top it off with undercoat or primer and paint... first thing first need to correct this mess... I feel a lot better about it as long as they didn't jack anything else up I think I am in pretty good shape (hope the alternator works) but who knows things may not work even after I get the wires sorted out... but at least I will have proper wire configuration and factory appearance back to this car (some people should never own a nice car like these 911's) Criminal... But Ill bring her back unless I go broke trying..

:)

Correction a mechanic should not work on these cars unless he knows how to do it right thats what's criminal your doing a good job hang in there.

typically, red is 12V + in this car. You'll notice the charging circuit from the alternator ties in at the starter. Does your charge indicator light work? How do you know it is not charging? Those cut red wires in the above picture likely tie into the rear fuse panel to drive the heater blower motor and sometimes rear windshield wiper and rear window defrost. I cannot read all of the wiring schematics in close enough detail.

There is a switch with two wires going to it on the front of the transmission, which turns on your reverse lights (assuming the rest of the wiring is connected. I would propose that you find the switch, use a test lead to check. I would guess ground is switched in the reverse switch, but you have to check the diagram. If it is not switched ground (meaning the switch is allowing 12v+ to pass through it, when reverse is engaged), you can use a 12V + lead to one side of the switch and see if your brake lights will come on.

I tested the alternator at the battery.. I put a meter on it and started it up... the voltage did not change it remained exactly what the battery reads (usually goes up to 14.4 or whatever)... I did test the wires going to the back up switch, there are 2 wires off the 14 pin plug (#5 and #6)... however the yellow green wire was broken off so I will need to fix that first. As far ac the charge light indicator (where is it?) I would think no it does not work.

but lets say I take a jumper wire and touch the #5 to the #6 would I expect the reverse lights to come on?

let me know how I can check it out and I will?

Mike

Here's pics of the back-up switch connectors from one of my engine wiring harnesses.

These are an integral part of the harness.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186101966.jpg

well... I guess I will try to make his cheep plug work for now... and search out a plug to solder in... or worst case I could just get the whole harness from you tom... however I should be able to get it working I hope like it is.... Were you able to locate the female side of the 14 pin for me?

thnx

Mike,

Answer: YES. If the ignition switch is turned 'ON'.

Test #1:
Turn the ignition switch 'ON' yellow/green (#5) should have power (use test light to confirm). Put gear in reverse, green/brown wire (#6) should have power too. If you don't get power from green/brown wire, either there is an open wire or back-up light switch is bad.

These are the 2 wires (#5 & #6) connected to the back-up light switch. The green/yellow goes to fuse#11(S11) and the grey/brown wire goes to the back-up lights. When the ignition is 'ON', fuse #11 is powered. When F4 (back-up light switch) is turned 'ON' power is transmitted to grey/brown wire and subsequently the back-up lights come on too.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186111284.jpg

Tony

I received a PM last night about my chart. There may be a discrepancy with the #7 wire. Instead of Blue/White it should be Blue/Yellow.

I'll check on this and change the chart as necessary.

Thanks.