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Location: san jose
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replace rear windshield
I plan to replace rear windshield this weekend. I have done this before on my BMW2002. But does anyone have a tip on where to start the rope pull on a 911 , top, bottom , corner? thanks
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I have heard to just be VERY careful at the passenger side bottom window area where the defroster wires are plgged in, very tiny and easy to bust.
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
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I have been told that rear window defrost wiring is a huge PITA. I'm not entirely sure why, but everybody who understands this procedure says those wires make this job highly difficult.
Without those wires, of course, you would rope the gasket so the rope overlaps at the bottom of the unit. The bottom center gets roped in first.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Thanks, Jim.
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The hard part is getting the wires in the seal where they belong and staying there. after you get that down just lay the window in the opening and then route the wires through the hole in the drivers side parcel shelf.
Of coarse you should have your rope or wire installed around the seal before placing it on the car. some soapy water on the seal is a good thing. Put the bottom of the window in the lower channel FIRST and check the side to side alignment. then rope it in from the top. Have someone hold the bottom of the window to keep it from popping out if you have help. They can apply a little inward pressure to where you are pulling to help the window into the channel. Other than the defrost wires, it goes rather easly. The reason to put it in at the bottom first is that you want the seal to lay against the sheet metal nicley up by the roof vents. Use a dull dental pick or a butter knife wraped with electrical tape to fix any little seal folds ect.
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Silver 1980SC Euro coupe Last edited by Ron.G; 08-17-2007 at 11:10 AM.. |
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Interesting. When I have seen front windshields done (twice), the rope ends are on the bottom. The bottom of the seal gets pulled in first. Perhaps the opposite is true of the rear glass, but gravity works on rear glass the same way it works on front glass.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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I'vve done 300 over the years. Rope starts at the top.
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
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where can I get one? I need to get ride of that nasty third brake light on my 964 and want a normal rear glass piece to replace it...
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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James, got mine from local dealer $700 plus tax. I ordered the European version of the glass without the brake light.
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You're crazy to eliminate the CHMSL these days. I not only installed one on my '83 SC but have two mercury-switch-activated LED brakelights (total of eight lights) on the underside of the rear wing. First time you're rear-ended the way my wife was in her totaled Boxster--by some distracted moron in an Excursion--you'll regret having let style overrule commonsense.
Not that a CHMSL will prevent rear-enders, but every little bit helps.
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Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster |
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Actually, although I am eliminating the CHMSL, I am adding the basket handle and will alter it to do that fancy blinking action when I stop. The CHMSL just blocks my rear view too much.
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
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Quote:
700 bucks sounds steep! was there a part number?
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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Superman
The glass is narrow at the bottom. |
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964-545-107-04 regular
964-545-107-05 with brake light raised 964-545-107-06 with rear window wiper 964-545-107-07 with rear window wiper and brake light raised 964-545-107-08 Carrera RS (thin) |
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
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Quote:
I assume by 'raised' you mean with the black outline for the third brake light and rear defrost?
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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Just finished having a rear window installed in my '84 Carrera and the wires need to be threaded into the rubber seal thru small holes in the correct locations. This was done by using a leather hole punch and on the driver's side you need 4 holes to thread the wires down into the engine compartment. By doing the holes in the seal in the proper location you get a nice even fit and you cant see the connections. The rope was also started and ended on the bottom of the glass.
Hope this helps-Roer B. ![]() ![]() |
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rear defrost is all on the windows.
brake light raised means CHMSL. |
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Location: Lacey, WA. USA
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Not to beat a dead horse, but I still don't know why the roping does not start at the bottom. I don't know why the narrowness of the glass at the bottom would make a difference. What I do know is that gravity will be trying to lower the glass while you're frigging around with the roping beginning at the top. It seems like you might need someone to help fight gravity by pushing the glass somewhat upward so that you don't find it has sagged when you get to the final roping part at the bottom.
German engineers used gravity when they placed the oil tank well above the engine oil pump. Front glass is seated at the bottom first. Why not use those same principles on rear glass?
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
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Quote:
all the prices for these are about the same... strange
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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