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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: COLORADO
Posts: 224
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Problem pulling engine from 911 / 912
I bought a car from a guy in the mid west . I am in Denver . It is a 912 . It needs some engine work . The car has locking lugs . I was sent no adapter for these locking lugs . Any idea how to remove these so we can pull the engine ? Thanks
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Evolved
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,338
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Locking lugs? What are you describing? Locking lug nuts???
![]() How would those prevent an engine removal?
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: COLORADO
Posts: 224
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dont you have to pull the rear wheels ?
I am new at this ? Obviously
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Edina, MN
Posts: 350
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You don't have to remove the wheels to get the engine out.
It is easier to drop the engine and transmission at the same time, but not required. Many will seperate them and just drop the engine. If this is your first time, I would drop them as a pair. If you just drop the engine, the rear wheels are still connected to the transmission. If you are dropping the pair, you remove the half-shafts from the transmission and they hang there as you do your engine work. What year is the 912? You may have the old style axles still. Won't make a big difference as you still disconnect from the trasmission in the same manner, just different numbers of bolts holding stuff together. You will need to get the wheel thing figured out at some time. I would think you might be best to cut the little suckers off.
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-Dave in Minnesota 96 C4 Cab, 85.5 944 82 SC Targa SCWDP #0023 82 928 67 912 60 T-5 B Cabrio |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
Posts: 9,032
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IROCPORSCHE73,
You don’t need to remove any wheels to remove the engine but to answer your question, most tire shops can get the locking lugs off. To remove your engine, follow these steps: 1) Remove the battery ground strap. 2) Reach behind the fan shroud on the left and use a 10 mm open-end wrench to pop off the throttle link going through the tin. You can then feed the link through and slide it off the transmission bell crank. 3) Undo the fuel hose at the left where it goes through the chassis. 4) Remove the generator wires at the voltage regulator and electrical panel. 5) Remove the wires at the coil, oil pressure sender and temperature sender. 6) Loosen (but do not remove) the two large bolts between the engine mount and rear of the chassis. 7) With both of front tires blocked in both directions, the care safely supported on jack stands and some additional safety under the rear of the belly pan (but not on the transmission) get under the car. Now you can fish out the throttle link. 8) Remove the heater tubes and heater flap control wires. 9) Remove the rear tin and muffler. 10) Remove the two top engine-to-transmission mounting nuts and bolts. This will take a VW tool or two people to accomplish. The nuts are behind the fan shroud and on the case. On the transmission one is the upper starter fastener and originally was a 10 mm internal wrenching Allan bolt. The driver’s side upper obvious. 11) Remove the bottom two engine-to-transmission nuts on the transmission side (there are studs in the engine case). 12) Support the engine on a jack (take care to protect the sump plate). 13) Remove the two engine mount bolts at the chassis in the rear. 14) Slowly and carefully allow the engine to lower a few inches. It will pivot on the transmission front mount. Make sure everything is disconnected and not hanging up. 15) Grab the engine mount and pull the engine to the rear while wiggling side-to-side. Be careful that the engine is center balanced on the jack. As the engine moves rearward, you can continue lowering slightly more. You shouldn’t lower the engine any more than necessary to clear until the engine studs and jackshaft become detached. Once the engine is no longer connected to the transmission, it can be fully lowered. This can be done with muffler and rear tin in place. There a few emmissions issues with '68 and '69 models but most have been removed by now. If you want to remove the engine AND transmission, there only a few extra steps (ans you still don't need to remove the wheels). Pelican john_cramer has a thread (that I can’t find) about this subject for an early 911. All this is a summary. As usual the devil is in the details. After this many years it is unusual to find everything original and easy to unscrew. Best, Grady
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Posts: 8,673
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You can remove the locking lugs by getting a 12 point socket that will fit on the lug tightly.
Tap it on with a small sledge, just enough that it won't turn. Do it with a big drive 1/2" socket. Lever the locking lug off with a long handle. If it slips, tap on a little harder. Hardest part is getting them apart so you can do the others. I've had to do this several times. |
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 4,612
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When you get to Grady's step 6, be very careful not to twist off the ends of the engine supports that the bolt goes through. If you have an impact wrench, use it.
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Neil '73 911S targa |
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AutoBahned
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Be sure to get a helper if you are new to these cars or to mechanical work in general.
That is a LOT of wt. to end up on your foot or leg... Have you seen Wayne's 101 Projects book? It has several helpful beginner's projects in it. Good Luck. |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,569
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'66 911 #304065 Irischgruen ‘96 993 Carrera 2 Polarsilber '81 R65 Ex-'71 911 PCA C-Stock Club Racer #806 (Sold 5/15/13) Ex-'88 Carrera (Sold 3/29/02) Ex-'91 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (Sold 8/20/04) Ex-'89 944 Turbo S (Sold 8/21/20) |
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Posts: 8,673
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The car is a 912. He doesn't give a year. 912e?
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
Posts: 9,032
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John,
Aah yes, good ol’ Ultimate SWB Engine Drop Checklist I understand Boolean logic and much more but Wayne’s forum search change beats me too often. I probably did six searches. Dumb ol’ me. tcar, I'm asiming '66-'69. Almost anyone else would identify a '76 as a 912E (923). In about '76 I built my dad the ultimate '67 912 Targa, info posted elsewhere. When he quit driving we drove it to Willobey gave it to Chuck Stoddard. Best, Grady John, BTW, know anyone with a complete rebuildable Solex 911 core (901/01) for sale? For a Pelican friend. G.
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: phila
Posts: 183
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Read
Why don't some of you people buy a book about these cars, AND READ IT before you bother the forum? Also look in and under the car and see how it is put together. You can pull the engine and trans out of a 912 in about 30 minutes by yourself, I have done it mucho times. Forty years ago when I did my first one I looked at the engine and trans saw some electrical wires, some heater wires, bolts holding it in, removed all and took it out, I had no books, was I a mech, genius, or just had half a brain and saw what the situation was. And in anticipation of the usual backlash of " oh he is new" baloney, 40 years ago I was new also and I wasn't asking the kind of questions that constantly come up on this forum.
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 1999
Posts: 8,673
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Quote:
That's what I assumed, too, but people ask ?? all the time assuming that we know what their car is and don't tell us - just pointing it out. That's really cool about the '67. I'll to a 'boolean' search for the info. |
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