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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: southern RI USA
Posts: 1,513
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1st time DIY Weber rebuild advice?
Hello
I will be rebuilding my pmo webers as soon as the rebuild kit and other misc parts arrive. I do have the Haynes manual and the 101 projects book, as well as print outs of the exploded views of typical Weber 40s (which I assume are extremely close to the PMO ones, especially for reference sake). The only carbs I've ever worked with are various Keihin and Mikuni motorcycle carburetors. I'm not worried that I will be in over my head per se, but was wondering if those of you that have done this job before have any specific advice or tips? Thanks
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Sepia brown 1971 911T. |
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Be careful when you loosen the copper nuts and bolts. Copper is a fairly soft metal and will strip easily. IF you strip one you can find replacements easily and cheaply at:
http://youroil.net/weber_carb_parts.html *I don't think pelican carries those parts. If they do I will gladly edit that and inform you of where to find them in the pelican catalog. The other hitch that I ran into was that the gasket set I bought from pelican didn't fit that well. I don't know if the gaskets should be soaked first to soften them up a bit or what the solution to that problem would be. Other than that take pictures of the order of things as they go on the accelerator pump. Actually here is a picture of the accelerator pump for you: ![]() When you are done rebuilding them t-bird gives a great deal of information on tuning carbs half way down the first page of this thread: Weber rebuild Good Luck Rich
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"The reason most people give up is because they look at how far they have to go, not how far they have come." -Bruce Anderson via FB -Marine Blue '87 930 |
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Be very careful if they have been sitting. I ruined a body by breaking off 2 main jet holders, and an idle needle. I drilled out one jet and could not get the others out.
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Donnie Currently Porsche-less.....
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 230
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Just rebuilt my Weber 40's this past weekend. Fairly straightforward. The only challenging part was removing the float valve caps (2 per carb). The easiest method I found was to loosen them while still attached to the manifold. Not sure if PMOs are different.
Other than that it was a straightforward remove, clean and replace gaskets. I used a combination of brake/carb cleaner for most of the bodies and used vinegar soak and brushing to clean the jets. All parts/assemblies were blown out with compressed air prior to reassembly. The best advice I can give is have a wide clean worksurface available so you can lay everything out in sequence when you disassemble then match the replacement gaskets/parts ahead of time to reduce the guess workwhen reassembling. I did find a stuck accelerator pump valve and "popped" it loose with a plastic pen cap tip (gently). Soaking in vinegar and compressed air did not loosen it. No real problems or mysteries to solve.
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Rick Katigbak Gretchen - 1972 3.6 ST-Replica No Name - 1966 911 - 2.7S powered |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Oahu
Posts: 2,303
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How many actually remove the throttle shafts, and if you do, how difficult was re-assembly? I'm concerned with ruining the plastic bushings, while soaking the carb body.
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Jon |
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Evolved
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,338
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Shbop
I've rebuilt many carbs. over the years, including my Webers. I would NOT recommend a DIY home removal of the throttle shafts. If the shafts are worn and need to be replaced or bushed ...IMO send them to a qualified Weber or PMO expert.
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Don't fear the reaper. |
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"farking Porsche hero"
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Be careful tightening the float bowl drain plugs, they're hollow soft metal and can snap off pretty easily.
Yes, I did that.
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Rich '66 911 #303872 '07 Cayman '17 Macan '58 Land Rover S2 88" |
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