Engine lid keeps unlatching.....

[kees]

The decklid opens after driving for a while. I've checked the cable (it's not broken), cleaned off all of the grease dirt (after I took the pictures), applied new grease etc.

Can somebody tell what is the correct length of the probe?



And what's the normal seize of the lower latch opening?



Last question: does the probe looks right (worn?)



Thanks.


Kees.

Porsche 911 Carrera 3.2 1985 (euro)

[Tim L]

It could be too tight try lengthening the probe. I had a problem with the fan band orientation; the clamping mechanism kept hitting the lid and popping it open. The probe finally broke.

[Porsche-O-Phile]

It's adjustable. I had the same problem on mine.

Take a wrench and undo the hexagonal "cup" on the upper latch part then a big flat screwdriver in the slot on the end of the pin to increase or decrease the length. It's trial-and-error to get it to sit right, but doesn't take very long.

Pull the lower part while you're in there and clean everything well.

[Mo_Gearhead]

New car for you? Or had the car some time and this just started happening?

Probe length may vary slightly from car to car, (lid alignment, etc.), so no set value there. The probe does not look overly worn from the photo IMO. Probe depth, once set, should not vary.

Did you remove the entire latch mechanism and clean it? I would. It may have dirt/old lube/etc. in the mechanism. Re-install and re-adjust cable pull.

[bkreigsr]

keep experimenting with the length and alignment until it no longer pops open when you're pulling .9g's on the ramps.

note: be sure to have a back-up release if you go to deep or too shallow and it won't release via cable pull.

oh, and if the probe looks worn on one side, rotate it 180 deg to a fresh relief cut

Bill K

[kees]

Originally Posted by Mo_Gearhead

New car for you? Or had the car some time and this just started happenin

I have the car for about nine years now. I don't drive it that much (it's a shame). I just noticed it for the first time a few months ago. At first I thought I didn't close it properly right after some work in the engine bay. Now I know for sure I did and the decklid opens while driving. I will take it all apart and clean it and regrease the upper and lower latch and try to align the lock mechanism.

Thanks to you all.


Kees.

[Early_S_Man]

kees,

I suggest cleaning all of the old grease off both probe and latch mechanism. A bit of new grease over old, dried grease still can have too much drag, and can cause the probe not to be fully captured by the latch ... even when the probe is fully pushed in.

I believe that the biggest problem is the latch, not the probe, because the operating parts are hidden, and the buildup of old grease is out of sight!

This problem is analogous to an RC time constant in a circuit where the spring loading of the probe and latch is the 'C' component, and the friction and drag forces caused by old grease is an 'R' component increasing in value over time.

[john walker's workshop]

if the sleeve is wallowed out, then it won't stay shut. the sleeve is that thing at the bottom of the spring, which surrounds the pointed end. see if it's a good fit to the shaft, or split/loose.

[Les Paul]

check your gaps on both sides. Mine was doing this last spring and I thought it was the latch. I did all the things that have been suggested. Then I looked at the gaps. I'd had the car taken down to bare metal for a repaint and it wasn't lined up right. I knew it had been a perfect fit before the paint job and I put it back the way it had been, no more popping open. Those bolts have probably let the rear deck move ever so slightly over the years and it is giving you your problem.

[kees]

Thanks Warren, John and Les Paul.

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

if the sleeve is wallowed out, then it won't stay shut. the sleeve is that thing at the bottom of the spring, which surrounds the pointed end. see if it's a good fit to the shaft, or split/loose.

John, is this the part you are talking about?



Thanks,


Kees.

[john walker's workshop]

that's it. if the body latch ear is extended all the way into the hole, (adjusted properly), then the sleeve is the next usual culprit.

[john70t]

Remove the grill first, before adjusting the latch or cable. This will allow manual releasing the latch if the pull bar in the door doesn't work.

[fred cook]

To make certain that the probe is properly centered on the sleeve, put a piece of wide masking tape over the hole. Gently lower the lid until the probe dents or slightly punctures the tape. If the probe is not properly centered, adjust and test on a new piece of tape. Using this method, you should be able to get the probe (nearly) perfectly centered.

[Porsche-O-Phile]

That's interesting. On 944 hoods (which use the same type of mechanism), the upper "pin" part has the slotted holes for a degree of position adjustability. On my 911 rear deck lid, I noticed the upper pin part didn't, it just had two circular holes ("901" part number). Yours seems to have the slotted holes. Interesting. Wonder if this was an update on later years.

[kees]

Originally Posted by fred cook

To make certain that the probe is properly centered on the sleeve, put a piece of wide masking tape over the hole. Gently lower the lid until the probe dents or slightly punctures the tape. If the probe is not properly centered, adjust and test on a new piece of tape. Using this method, you should be able to get the probe (nearly) perfectly centered.

Just removed and cleaned the upper part (probe). Will do what you described.

JohnT

Sounds like a good plan.


Thanks,


Kees.

[kees]

Thanks to you all,

Did what you suggested (cleaned, regreased, adjust etc) and all is working great now.

With regards,

Kees.

[Paulporsche]

Nice tip, Fred. I'm going to try that once I get my lid open!