3.0 engine with unknown history - what should i do before i buy?

[PAV - 911]

I have found a 3.0ltr engine which has been pulled out of the car and has the CDI 6pin with it.

My question is, what tests should i have done to this engine before the purchase? What should i look for?

I really need this to be a good engine as my 2.7 has been a nightmare and rather than rebuilding, i thought i might aswell update.

Thanks Again
-Phil.

[favrok01]

Find out year of engine.
get the # off the engine.
get the # off the Warm up regulator.
get the number off the Fuel Distributor.
MAKE SURE THESE NUMBERS MATCH THE YEAR OF THE ENGINE!!!
check fuel lines

Look under engine to see what kind of oil leaks there are then i guess a COLD compression test since its pulled.

make sure it turns over.

would be sweet if it was a ROW.

[Steve@Rennsport]

Phil:

Have a leakdown test performed, for sure!!

[Wayne 962]

Sorry, but unless the engine is running in the car, or you're buying it from someone who did a leakdown and compression check when the engine was in the car, then you have to treat it as a core engine, and assume it needs rebuilding. Most of the time, the reason why the engine was pulled out of the car is because there was something wrong with it...

-Wayne

[ChrisBennet]

Your signature doesn't say where you are but if the motor was from anyplace but a super dry climate, the head studs are probably past their "best if used by" date. If the lower head studs on a 3.0 haven't been replaced I wouldn't be surprised if some broke the first summer you used it.
-Chris

[PAV - 911]

Thanks for the reply guys.

Im from Melbourne, Australia by the way.

As far as I know, the engine was pulled out of a wreck and was running fine when the car it came out of was on the road.

Will a leakdown test show me much info? Whats a good result i should be looking for??

What should i absolutely change before i put it in my car??

Its costing me AU$5,500 so i want to get it right!

Cheers,
-Phil.

[Laneco]

On a non-running engine (out of the car) unless someone can jury up a starter and fuel system, always assume it is a "core" and pay accordingly.

I would suggest you remove the upper and lower covers - look for broken head studs. If you pull the covers and there is rust in side - that is a REALLY bad thing. Pulling the spark plugs will also give you an indication of the condition of the engine the last time it ran. Oil fouled - fuel fouled, etc. Make sure the engine turns by hand.

Before you put it back into the car, replace cap, rotor, plugs, any marginal vacuum lines and adjust the valves.

my 2 centavos...
angela

[chrisp]

I don't really have an answer to your question because I've never shopped for a motor but I agree with the others, I would pay a core price for that motor. With that in mind I probably wouldn't check much except I'd probably pull the valve covers, turn it by hand and make sure all of the parts are moving.

[Hoffmanmotors]

Think of a "out of car" engine like a non running engine unless they can prove it runs fine by video or in person. You would think they would leave it in the car so they can show people its running and then drop it when its sold. Not sure if a leak down will tell you everything, what if it has a knock?? But yes get a leak down.

If you decide to buy, definitely check the head studs before purchasing, I have a 90k SC and low and behold we found a broken head stud after we purchased it.

-Jeff

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by favrok01

Find out year of engine.
get the # off the engine.
get the # off the Warm up regulator.
get the number off the Fuel Distributor.
MAKE SURE THESE NUMBERS MATCH THE YEAR OF THE ENGINE!!!
check fuel lines

favrok01:
Did you ever send the parts, or give the money back to Anna?

favrok01, anybody know him?

Looks like you were hiding for many months.
If you didn't come clean, it's more than high time.

[MKEDF]

HI there, just read the thread...

I bought a 1978 3.0 SC which happens to have the original manual sealed by dealer until 65k miles..The car has 83k miles

Service history from 1985 to 2007, an owner who said the car could make it to San Diego...

And guess what...

Yeap,,, the car didnt make it .....she was using low octane fuel and the rings broke along with two pistons...

So now a rebuild brought to my attention 7 replaced studs, a broken rocker arm spring, head machining, a different set of P&Cyls, about 4k in labour and replacement parts, (The crankcase is not opened), inspection brought that crank and rest of the parts are okay to use...


The lesson to learn here is just what Wayne said...if it is out of the car then something is wrong, assume at least 5k on budget for engine reconditioning and other expenses..

And in the other hand, they are 30 year old cars, expect the unexpected...and be ready to pay for it...