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Your oil looks fine.
Also, I have info on Staveley Services if you need. |
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Forgot to mention (in answering your question) that ,..let's not forget what RP said it should be.....assuming truth from their mouths , this would, in fact, be a considerable point of reference in and of itself, eh?
Throw in the other commentary from the people who have lived it,......and a lab that shows dead on,..........well,......what's left (other than conspiracy theories)? Maybe one more test would put it to bed for me (and I'll certainly do a few more...) I just pray that RP never does what Mobil 1 did,..and that's not tell anybody about it (at least the public at large,..but even then: how many of those people will understand (((generally))))) and how many will give a rat's arse? You're engine will not die because of Brad Penn and you will find both Charles and Steve seldom wrong...if they are, they'll surely agree to it.........under the same rules as me: facts, not: fiction (or worse) silence..... I will post my upcoming results with the RP MC 20W50. My best, |
My 89 goes in this AM for an oil change. NOW that I have a "correct" baseline on my virgin RP Max Cycle (from Staveley's), I feel better in being able to gauge it's performance vs. mileadge. The last oil change made use use of the max cycle (about 10.3 quarts) with the previous oil change using RP street version 20W50. (I guess this means that today's sample from the engine will, in fact, have a bit of the street stuff that was remaining in the engine, mixed in with the Max Cycle). I'll drive her for a solid hour before showing up for the change although the temps outside are quite cool and I may not be able to get above 180 deg. F so early in the AM.
Inanycase, I'll get my sample off to Staveley's TODAY and report back to this group. Today's engine sample will have about 3500 miles on the Royal Purple Max Cycle, 20W50. Finally found where I can get the RP Max Cycle without having it special ordered through Advanced Auto Parts. I drove about 40 miles yesterday to get a case from Summit Racing...damned near $11 per quart!! Around $140 for the case (with tax)...GEEEZE! On a side note: what would one expect on a VOA when you've added a bottle of Techron into the last tank of gas just before changing the oil? (Charles?) Thanks to all,....Best |
To be honest, I have never seen the effect of adding Techron or any other cleaner to the fuel in UOA. I guess you would see fuel dilution or insolubles maybe? Your guess is as good as mine.
I'll be curious to see how the copper levels look in the UOA for the Royal Purple. I have probably at least a half-dozen UOAs with RP with abnormal copper levels. I have had a few coversations with Bob Cousimano (CMW Motorsports / CMW Oil) about how moly in engine oil is bad, and he has seen the same problem of copper leaching in oils with high moly levels, like RP. BTW, my spintron for oil testing of cam/lifters and bearings is finally done. What is not shown is the steel tank we fabricated around it (holds 10 qts of oil). I'll shoot some vid of it in operation. I also put a tap to draw samples during operation for oil analysis. We will be running Castrol GTX as the control for ~50 hours. http://www.lnengineering.com/spintron.JPG |
Nice piece,..well done.....way cool.
Copper,..Moly,..(I my goddy)? Guess I've some reading to do,..review, as well. On these items, please engage me: COPPER I would assume that the Copper level measurement on a virgin sample would (always?) be zero. Then one would see a certain measureable amount in a 3K mile sample. What exactly IS this process of leaching, avoiding atomic verbage? Is this leaching process the sole contributor to the measured copper levels? WHERE is this copper being leached FROM?Although I never tested a VIRGIN sample of RP 20W50 STREET, I DID test this street version on a 2800 mile sample and Blackstone recorded a copper level of 7..what IS the proper range of levels? I will certainly report back here with Copper levels on the RP MC. MOLY So, RP has lots of moly (relatively)? Is IT the main source of a leaching process, thereby producing higher Copper levels? What is the relation of Moly/copper, interactively? Is moly prone to produce MORE deposits (of ANY kind)? In other words, HOW is moly bad, in the opinion of CMW Motorsports??????????????????? Like I said earlier, I've some reading to do. I'll recheck your site for information. Hopefully, the UOAs you mentioned are listed on the site. Charles, thanks for your time and efforts. Sorry for SOOOOOOO many questions. I'm sure that these questions have been answered by the oil experts within this group, your expertise INCLUDED......no doubt the mighty LubeMaster has touched on Moly............. It's one of those things I've taken to in learning sections, as it is complicated. One (I) must draw a conclusion that will be completely holistic. Rest assured that I integrate the opinion of the engine guys, in the trenches,...SEEING it everyday. 'nuff. Best, |
Yep,....found the section on Moly at your website...now: off to the suggested sites for further information......
Thanks again, |
Still awaiting the lab results,..I've concern about the expected Copper levels....(I know,..wait for the results). As well, I'm off to read as much as possible about Moly and the interactions......
For insurance, I've ordered my case of BP from Charlie,..as obviously this oild doesn't contains the same Moly levels.... Had a conversation (albeit brief) with a P-wrench today (30+ years experience) who soke badly of elevated Moly content............... .............I'm loosing sleep now.......As the RP Max Cycle 20W50 is loaded with it, eh? ........deep breath,..continue your studies? Best, |
Still no lab results from Staveley's on the used RP MC (hopefully, this week?).
I DID rx' my case of BP from Charlie (man,..that's less than 1/2 of what I pay for a RP MC changeout, even with the $15.00 shipping included). Something told me to order this oil, as a standby while awaiting the RP test results.... I sampled the new BP 20W50 and have mailed it to Staveley for virgin baseline analysis. Charles,..have you heard of someone changing from RP MC 20W50 to BP 20W50 for any reasons OTHER THAN cost? If so, what would be those reasons? Speak to me of Moly content w/in the BP. a different animal? Will report back (as always) with the analysis data. My best to all........Happy Holidays! |
Doyle - which Staveley lab did you send your sample to?
As for Moly - stick with the oil soluble kind. The black MoS2 will drop out or worse, clog oil gullies. The test results are mixed as far as the effectiveness is concerned. I will say that I do know a bunch of folks that run equipment with oil containing moly and they swear by it. We have been able to get a nice 15W40 API approved for CJ4 by using a stout amount of an oil soluble moly add in place of the reduced ZDDP. The thing is, we also had to do a number of other things as well. The engine oil technology that is being developed now really is very interesting unfortunitly there is little if any truth to the advertisments you see, read or hear. When I give seminars I ofetn spend a fair amount of time talking about engine oil technology - not that I want to but every one seems to be thirsty for info. Lets face it, every oil blender is buying their add packs from one of three companies. If you look at their tech sheets on-line you can make a pretty acurate guess which ones are the same. They list out the various OEM spec approvals beyond the API. The things you should look for that are not readily visable would be a level of consistency in production (sometimes ISO certification can drive that - not always). This is so difficult for the average person to get to. Unless you had access to their SPC charts and the QC manifest you would not know the truth. Even then some companies fudge the data. The things that really seems to be pushing engine oil technology forward is not so much the add packs - they are mostly all the same rather the base oil technology. If you can lower the volality you can effectivily improve the viscosity stability and in the long term inprove its longevity. This means that the cuts have to cracked and a narrower molecular weight distribution made. The other thing that has to be done is to take out all the waxes. This improves its cold weather stability buit will also in the grand scheme of things, the waxes will contribute to sludge build-up over time. I wrote a paper on this years ago. The last thing that has to be done to the base oils is to have a higher level of hydrogen sateration on the carbon chains. This will have a humongous effect on stabilizing the oil for extended life and oxidation stability. The sad thing is, most folks think that the add packs have the direct influence on performance when infact they play an important roll but not the most important - only because they are all working the same way. Little is available that is truely different. One thing that an engine oil producer can do by way of the add packs is to use the max levels allowed. The three add pack mfgs have a suggested blends range with a low end meeting the API specs. When we blend, we juice it and use darn good base stock and make sure the SPC is tight as a ducks arse. Most fuel companies that make oil are making better product now then ever before because they have to not because they want to. These companies have some amazing engineers and scientists working for them but they are not focused on developing the best product but rather reducing the cost to produce a product. |
LUBEMAN!! WHATZUP?
I appreciate your reply (and many posts....your are quite generous with your knowledge and experience)...it's like reading a good novelist,...very well spoken. Although an electronics engineer and NOT a LUBE engineer, I have to appreciate your patience with the masses. Obviously there are MANY complexities within this equation, requiring a very specialized knowledge....your patience in sharing your information is very impressive...and I respect that in every way...... As to your comments: I send my stuff to the Lab in Atlanta. As to Moly: What is the "oil-soluble kind"? And how do I know THAT's what's being used? Clogging oil gullies is EXACTLY what I intend to avoid at all costs. I'm sure there exists amny users who use it in there "equipment" and swear by it. However, I'm speaking (and quite strictly) about my 911 and it's 1989 design. I can buy cat converters all day long, should it be determined that high ZDDP packages (of old) will do fine......but if someone approaches me as to Moly concerns (P-wrenches w/ trench experience), or discussions as to leaching processes,..GEEZE,..what next? So, you add Moly and HAVE to change something else......understood that it's a "reactive" package yielded a composite result, at least for newer cars for sure. I think ALL of the 911 owners here (most non LUBEMASTER certified, I might add) want to be sure about what oil they're using and try to understand much of the "why". I realize that all the information presented is not quite "on", as I would say. Thank God that there are people such as yourself who help us NON-OIL EXPERTS (slowly, I might add) understand the processes/data. I must say, that even after having read much on oil topics, I still felt uncomfortable being challenged by the frikin' Advance Auto counter person (mullet-head) as to why I was ordering motorcycle oil for a Porsche........First time ever I had to unload by saying just order the frikin' oil, please Mr. mulllet-head, as I've not much time for oil chit-frikin'-chat with you. Driving home, it pissed me off even more: this oil thing. Being now on my second pass with RP Max Cycle 20W50, I'm curious as to where the sampling may fall....if there's no real need to run an oil that's HIGH in Moly (and Z&P, too),..then why would I? What would say as to leaching as related to Moly content? Sorry to be winded,...I truly appreciate your time..... Awaiting results,..will report back, BEst |
Doyle,
Thanks for you kind words. It is interesting that you will be willing to put motorcycle oil into the crank of your Porsche. I think I understand the reasoning but without offending you, Mullithead may actually be right (without actually knowing it). I think (correct me if I'm worng) the reasons you are going with the motorcycle engine oils in your car is because you want to: 1) have better wear prtection and engine oils have reduced antiwear adds (ZDDP) and motorcycle oils actually have a higher concentration beacuase they also have to lube the gears? 2) motorcycle engine oils are designed to take higher heat and keep their viscosity because the motorcycle engines acually run hotter than regualr engines? Well, to tell you the truth, there is no difference between car engine oil and motorcycle engine oil. I know this may come as a shock but some companies (including motorcycle companies) will spin an interesting tale in order for you to buy a product. One thing is certain, they know how to get into your wallet becuase they know how to get between your ears! The tests run by our labs as well as others indicate that there is no didferenc ein wear protection and no difference in heat stability and no difference in viscosity stability. There was some very significant work done by several reasearch instituations as to figuering out if infact there was a performance difference - none could find a difference. One thing that did make a difference was the comparison between mineral based oils and sysnthetics. Synthetics do hold viscosity better (but I covered that before somewhere). The drawback with synthetics is the price and that with older seal technology you may see some leaks. Another thing with synthetics (although it is not important to Porsche owners yet) is that with the use of bio-based diesel fuel, there appears to be a greater affinity for the biobased fuels to actually dissolve synthetic oils resulting in piston wash and oil blow-by. Not and issue unless your haul truck for your track car is running B20 to B100! As for the moly goes, just stay away form any oil that looks black coming out of the can. The moly disulfide used in greases is black and does a great job but is not oil soluable. Oils that are transparent with a green color or even a red amber and state that they use moly are OK. That m,oly is safe on the gallies. |
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I am willing to agree that for most modern dohc engines like what you find in your Ford Focus or Chevy Cobalt, water-cooled 986/996 engines included, that the levels of Zn and P provided for in an API SM spec oil is probably sufficient. Given an ACEA A3/B3 approval and a Porsche approval, and it's probably fine for your new Porsche. I also agree that synthetics as a whole are better than most non-synthetics, but again, given enough refining, petroleum base stocks with the proper additive packages are fine too. Also noack volatility is important, as blow-by and combustion byproducts (pentane insolubles), have been documented as a good source of wear. There are indeed motorcycle oils that are no different than car oils, but I would have to say that lumping all of them together is wrong. How about the JASO MA and MB specification, as some oils can't be friction modified to prevent clutch slippage. Mobil 1's V-Twin and MX4T oils are definately different than their other oils, with higher HTHS viscosities than their car oil counterparts, as well as significantly different detergency and anti-wear additives used and their levels. In fact, they are basically thicker versions of Mobil's old Mobil 1 R Nascar oil, which is no longer sold. That's just one example. That said, some of the sequences developed through SWI for evaluation of lubricants poorly correlate to how they would do in an aircooled engine or a 911, for that matter. That's why I'm asking what tests you were referring to. Most, if not all modern engines, when considering cam wear, use significantly lighter valves and valve springs, which reduces the need for Zn and P allows for the substitution of other low SAPS oils that do a satisfactory job protecting these engines. That is why there are manufacturer specific specifications and oil formulations, Porsche included, that don't allow for a low SAPS oil as it doesn't meet the wear requirements, among other specifications. Same with energy conserving or GF-4 oils, I lump them in the category as just as bad for an aircooled Porsche, but ok possibly for new cars. In some cases, a lower detergency oil with more anti-wear additives is needed for a performance engine which is significantly different than engines and oils evaluated in taxi fleets. |
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No, not really. I still have alot of customers running Royal Purple Max Cycle or Mobil 1 V-Twin, or even the Amsoil Harley. All very good oils regardless, but there are still tons of good oils out there, if just not that easy to get your hands on. Brad Penn has no moly nor friction modifiers, at least in their multi-grade oils. The SAE 50 and 70 have friction modifiers, but have very low detergency, and even a bit more Zn and P, as they are intended for racing. In speaking to Brad Penn, even though the multi-grade oils are advertised as racing, they are really designed for high performance street engines rather than a race car that is going to have frequent oil changes and doesn't need the detergency and that can benefit from a few more HP from the friction modifiers. |
Charles,
One study that I did find was work from John C. Woolum, Professor of Physics, California State University, Los Angeles. I have similar work done here as well. I also spoke to some friends at Lubrizol and Afton concerning add packs for motor cycles - all confirmed. The reason I did this was that at one time we considered making a motor cycle engine oil. Quote:
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and to finish up his report...
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Something else that I found that backs this up as well...
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and to add to that...
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oh ya, I forgot to address your other concern...motorcycle clutches are multi-plate affairs and are actually designed for motor oil - or more accurately stated would be that the recent technology used in engine oils lend themselves to used with high success in motorcycle transmissions.
I think we can thank the early work of Ford and Allison and the C-1, C-2 and C-4 push! |
Thanks Lubemaster77. Very interesting reads, for sure.
I'm speechless, for now. At the going prices for RP max C,..geeze,..VERY expensive oil WHEREVER you may find it. Mullethead "don't know Jack ****":,..although I have met him before. Aside from costs, why would mullethead be right? I guess I'm asking "what harm would be done by putting in my engine"? I've always paid attention to the posts speaking of the DIFFERENCES with our engines (spring pressures, temps,etc.) vs. others (esp. newer cars). These are VALID differences, I must say. Still trying to draw the correlation to all of the concerns with Z & P reductions, molys, etc. And achieve a resting state on product selection...if I knew what you guys knew, it would be a bit easier for me,...4sure. I don't think I got a response as to Molys related to shearing. Could you comment on that please, LM77? As stated, I've rx'd my BP case from Charlie and am considering changing to this selection. A few somments have me wondering about Moly (or subsequent elevated Copper levels on my upcoming VOA from Staveley on the RP MC 20W50). Should I see it, I would certainly ask: why? I have a feeling that maybe Charles has seen this before (only a feeling).... so,...now on to Brad Penn..... I'm a 3K oil changer, religiously. She is NOT a 3K miles/year car. I drive this 911 more than this, for now. First year logged 14K miles! That's a few oil changes for sure! I'm told that the BP has much less of a detergent package and no moly. Detergency question is, products aside, (as always?): what's the starting TBN and how long can it run before getting anywhere near 1/2 of it's original starting value....It seems to me that 3K changeouts render this question irrelevent? As well, Moly absence won't matter, right? Straight up, Lubemaster: what do you think of the Brad Penn oil? Especially as related to "Porsche engine" concerns? Specifically.... Thanks, again, for your shared information....it greatly contributes to my datapoints. (I like to call it my "neccesary holostic approach"..) I'm far less concerned about costs versus protection...... I just need to make the right decision and stay with it (which is what Charles has said from day one...) Thanks, in advance, for your answers to these questions (patience and forebearance, as well). My best, |
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