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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 758
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Faulty ignition switch
Ignition switch on my 81 SC has been problematical - occassionally will not turn, and now occassionally turns and lights come on but it doesn't spring back and start car. I'm ordering the whole new unit with new keys, but won't get it until next week. I thought I was stranded at the chevron last weekend, but all of a sudden after calling for a ride it worked. Assuming it works when I go to drive it this weekend, anyone know how to start it if it won't work again and I can't get it to work? Will it damage anything to push start it, and if I do that do I put the key in the run position? I heard something about starting with a screwdriver, but I'm not sure how this is done. I only drive the car on the weekends, and the weather is going to be perfect in ATL this weekend, and don't want to let it sit. Of course I'm going to hear it from the wife if I get stranded!
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You might try spraying some lubricant directly into the keyhole. There are several threads pertaining to this. The internal mechanizim dries up and sticks inside causing the symptoms you describe. I had the same and recently sprayed some TAL 5 into it with the red straw attachment. It freed up the switch and has worked perfectly since. YMMV. Good luck. Also, push starting is fine temporarily and yes put key in "run" and use 2nd. gear.
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'83 SC coupe Quartz grey metallic(gone) '58 spdstr 83677 1600N '94 968 Coupe 6-spd |
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Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 758
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Thanks Cattledog. I gave it a good spray last night with WD-40 based on some prior threads (I had sprayed it with "lockease" graphite a few months ago) but have not tried to start it yet. I'll give it a try today and see what happens.
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 615
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FYI - had my 81 ignition replaced due to similar issues; My wrench (experienced porsche shop) was able to rekey the new ignition to match my original keys; just FYI; I have read in places that this is not possible; my car is proof that it is; shop charged me $90 to do it.
what a nice feeling to get in the car confident that the key will turn. Do the swap before its too late. |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Glorious Pac NW
Posts: 4,184
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The mechanical lock not turning (or feeling "crunchy" to start) is almost always pins gummed up in the tumbler. If this happens when you're out without lube, try moving the key back and forth, up and down and rocking it in the lock - hopefully you'll hit the pin that's not releasing. Might be more of a problem if the key is too worn, as well..
Some swear by graphite in locks - it may give relief at first, but eventually made it worse for me. I found the spray silicon lube worked best - the solvent washes the old grease and gunge out pretty well (use freely) and the silicon leaves everything lubed. Just work the key around in the lock a bit to move the pins about and free them up. Oddly, the only locksmith within 15 miles of me on the Eastside in WA to stock 911 key blanks told me exactly the same thing without me asking - first thing he said after "hey, this looks like a 911 key!" ![]() The detents and spring-back action is done in the electrical portion. Mine just stopped starting one day, but would move and spring back fine... They generally give warning before they fail, like they sometimes "feel" like they're internally mis-aligned, don't switch all the circuits correctly etc. If you're lucky, it won't dead short and let the magic smoke out of the harness like a Honda 750 did to me once... You can pop the harness multiplug off the back, plug in another electrical portion and use a screwdriver in the slot to start the car. This is the easiest part of this exercise... ![]() Removing and replacing just the electrical portion from the back of the switch can be a bit of a pig - especially the top screw, which is tight on the metal of the dash, and you can't see it, and you're upside down in the footwell etc. However, it can be done, although it's probably impossible without the right tools, as almost everything is too big to get in there - I used a screwdriver bit with a tiny 1/4" ratchet to start it, and just the bit with my fingers to wind it out. My wrenches said that in their experience the lock portion itself rarely goes, much more common that the pins just gum up and don't move freely enough. Mine was a real worry (thinking I was going to get stranded) when I first got the car - until I finally got enough solvent/lube in there, on the 3rd or 4th try. It's still fine, and I haven't even squirted it since last December... Hope you get to enjoy a drive!
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'77 S with '78 930 power and a few other things. |
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