Word from Shell and Castrol re: ZDDP etc.

[movin]

Forget it, the oil companies do not give rats ass about older cars or the folks who own or care for them. Notice the lack of warnings from any company about the potential damage from reduced zinc and phosphorous while they dumbed down their products? We're a small, insignificant part of the market.

[Steve@Rennsport]

Originally Posted by 84_Carrera

Wayne, I thought Steve W & Charles were pushing the Brad Penn (purchased some recently per their advice). I also bought up cases of GM EOS after it was discontinued.

How does the Swepco compare to the BP, price-wise? Thanks.

Hey Fred:

IMHO, both Swepco & Brad-Penn are comparable products and we stock both of them for that very reason,... I think they are very close in pricing, especially when factoring shipping.

We have Swepco in bulk for in-house use and stock quart containers of the 20w-50 Brad-Penn oil for in-house and mail order.

[violin959]

is a misnomer. All tappets have a slight concave or convex cut to allow the tappet to rotate and not stay in on place. In the 911 the contact point between the valve stem head an the adjuster are slightly off center for the same reason.

[carnutzzz]

Originally Posted by HarryD

Lots of good dicussion/data here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/367300-ultimate-motor-oil-thread-why-we-hate-cj4-sm-oils-post3567095.html#post3567095

Bottom line, if the container says CJ-4 or SM, STAY AWAY. It does not matter if is states is meets previous standards, the data indicates otherwise.

I just bought some Shell Rotella T in 15/40. Is this stuff ok to run or not? I drive 1500 miles per year, and change oil once per year. No racing.

Thanks!

[Gene Wilkes]

Carnutzzz,
With the info shared by Wayne, Charles and others, I'd stick w/Swepco or Brad Penn!

[carnutzzz]

Originally Posted by islandmanpa

Carnutzzz,
With the info shared by Wayne, Charles and others, I'd stick w/Swepco or Brad Penn!

I plan to do just that. I wanted to change the oil before next weekend's mountain run however so timing is an issue.

I'll probably just run the Shell for a few months, then drop in some BP or Swepco.

Are we all comfortable with that? Should I drop in some additive?

I do like the idea of properly greased internal shiney bits.

[the]

Originally Posted by islandmanpa

Carnutzzz,
With the info shared by Wayne, Charles and others, I'd stick w/Swepco or Brad Penn!

I agree! This oil situation is very confusing, and seems to be changing all the time (a "fluid" situation, if you will).

Stuff like the Shell Rotella T seemed to be good for a while, but even that seems to now be reformulated.

Charles Navarro, last time I have seen, seemed to say that Castrol GTX has the right amount of zinc and phos. But I'm not sure anymore!

Fuch it, I just ordered 2 cases of Brad Penn. All the stuff other than Brad Penn or Swepco make me nervous now to use in my expensive engines.

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by carnutzzz

I plan to do just that. I wanted to change the oil before next weekend's mountain run however so timing is an issue.

I'll probably just run the Shell for a few months, then drop in some BP or Swepco.
Are we all comfortable with that? Should I drop in some additive?

With that few miles per year, I would just use the Rotella-T 15W40 and put in some GM-EOS for ease of mind.

I totally agree with BP or Swepco appears to be the best choice.
There are other factors like how much mileage per year, what climate do you live in, track-time or just street driving.
I still favor Diesel oil even though Steve points out that Diesel engines don't rev above 3000 RPM.
Like Charles said: "The Swepco 306 is a CI-4 15w40 diesel oil that is a phenomenal product in it's own right."

[David E. Clark]

The last time I took the time to read through all the posts in the various oil threads, Castrol GTX 20/50 high mileage was a recommended oil because the high mileage additives were considered beneficial. Is this no longer the thinking of all the oil gurus?

Please, please, please does someone have a list of approved oils for early air cooled cars? Something that lists oils from best (I'm guessing Swepco 306 15w40 or Brad Penn Racing 20w50) to recommended only if you can't get or afford the other stuff (perhaps Castrol GTX 20w50 or Kendall GT-1 20w50)? Maybe like a top 10 list in order. Sure would help us guys who just want to put quality oil in and drive (not necessarily race) our cars. Thanks.

[PatrickB]

Per Cnavarro, Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 is the best overall choice, and I've been using it in my 3.2 for the last 8k miles with good results. It has some of the highest levels of Z & P of all the oils tested...

[RWebb]

David - make it easy on yourself and use one of the two oils you listed. Brad Penn or Swepco.

Or use any of the old M1 you have lying around - I plan to do that then switch (assuming this is not completely resolved by the time for my next oil change - and I'm sure it won't be).

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by David E. Clark

The last time I took the time to read through all the posts in the various oil threads, Castrol GTX 20/50 high mileage was a recommended oil because the high mileage additives were considered beneficial. Is this no longer the thinking of all the oil gurus?

Please, please, please does someone have a list of approved oils for early air cooled cars? Something that lists oils from best (I'm guessing Swepco 306 15w40 or Brad Penn Racing 20w50) to recommended only if you can't get or afford the other stuff (perhaps Castrol GTX 20w50 or Kendall GT-1 20w50)? Maybe like a top 10 list in order. Sure would help us guys who just want to put quality oil in and drive (not necessarily race) our cars. Thanks.

David,

From what I am seeing, the "best" is Brad Penn or Swepco. If you need to use another brand due to some issue, Castrol 20W-50 is ok but allow no more that 3,000 miles between changes.

The current Kendall 20W-50 is not the same as the stuff that made their name in the '60s. The stuff in the Brad Penn can is what used to be in the Kendall can.

[syncroid]

I need to add my .02 here as well. This last weekend I checked my oil level after 2000 miles and found it three quarts low. The motor only has 9500 miles on it total. I have been running Mobil 1 15/50 except for the 1000 mile break in period which I was using Kendall 20/50. Since then it has been Mobil 1 15/50 with GM EOS added to it. I think the damage was done in the first 1000 miles. It is driven on the street and never beaten. I think I have been stung on the oiling issues being discussed here. I need to do a little more home work before I dive in and tear the motor apart again but I am pretty sure my valve guides are toast. Will post again when I've checked the guides for wear.

[York]

I just bought Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 for my '86, it is rated CI-4 and CI-4 Plus. Is it on the "approved" list? I have been using Mobil 1 0W40, gonna get it outta there ASAP.

[JBO]

Syncroid - any problem you may have would not have been caused by your oil selection, particularly since you added EOS which would have resolved the problem of low ZDDP levels in reformulated Mobil 1.

[Emission]

Originally Posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts

If you guys ignore the problem, and use the newer, revised oils, then you will have problems down the road in the future. The car will run fine today, but will wear out quicker.

Charles recommends the Swepco 306, which is what I'm running in my cars (topped off the 959 with it the other day). We sell this oil in our catalog, and are selling more and more due to the fact that they have promised not to change the anti-wear components of it.

-Wayne

The Swepco 306 is a good oil, but it isn't synthetic. For my hot turbo, I'd prefer a synthetic oil.

[nesslar]

Brad Penn.....Bradford, Pennsylvania......
....see online American Refining Group, Inc. (for your reading pleasure and info.) with facts, history, etc.
...In part, formerly "Kendall"...
...Penn1 20W50 Racing Oil.....good stuff. ...the "Green Oil"...
In the Puget Sound area Fred Williams (Freddy's Engines) in Snohomish will deliver at a good price.
No affiliation.

[syncroid]

Originally Posted by JBO

Syncroid - any problem you may have would not have been caused by your oil selection, particularly since you added EOS which would have resolved the problem of low ZDDP levels in reformulated Mobil 1.

I didn't use the EOS for the 1000 mile break in. This was two years ago before all the flap about the oil additives being taken out. If it is not an oiling issue then I will be having a word or two with our machinist.

[RWebb]

for 1st 1k miles the assembly lube and Mb should he really high & at least partially ameliorate using 'normal' oil

[Steve@Rennsport]

Originally Posted by Emission

The Swepco 306 is a good oil, but it isn't synthetic. For my hot turbo, I'd prefer a synthetic oil.

We ran the old Kendall GT-1 20w-50 (now called Brad-Penn oil) in our 935's for many years and nothing generates peak oil temps like a 700-800HP 3.2 @ 1.5-1.6 bar,...

All the innards and turbochargers held up very well given the operating environments and temperatures and a lot of other IMSA racers had similiar experiences.

IMHO, its better than many so-called synthetics.