800 hp? Yeah... that is a validated endorsement. I appreciate it. SmileWavy

- Mike

I have no empirical info about Kendall, but I always liked the stuff. Thanks to this forum, I know now that Kendall is made somewhere else by someone else. Not saying it's not as good and not saying BP is a substitute, because I don't know. But, I will be using dino oil for some time to come on my old 3.2. So, I guess it's either V-twin or BP. I'll see what I can buy w/o incurring shipping charges.

Anybody know about the Rotella T Syn 5w40 CI-4?

As far as I know, if the oil does not have the CJ-4 rating also, you should be ok.

Steve, your statement seems to leave the door open for some synthetics. If a person has preference for synthetics for some reason (very cold starts in the winter time, for example), do you have a recommendation?

Cheers,

Hi Andy:

There are several "real" synthetics that have all the "right stuff" for these engines. :)

Some of them are:

Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w-50
Royal Purple Racing
Redline oils
Joe Gibbs Racing oils
Motul race oils

A note,......some of these racing-specific formulations have little or no detergents to reduce/eliminate foaming at high RPM and should not be used for street use unless changed within 500-1000 miles. Redline offers both street and racing oils. Joe Gibbs oils are primarily for competition.

I thought I would point out that the CJ-4 standard limits P to 1000 ppm. Not even the person from Shell that was writing you could get that fact right :-)

I found our field tests from early '06 where we ran gtx, brad penn, m1 vtwin, and rp on a cross country drive, oil changes every 800 mi, with complete drain of oil system (recaptured oil into the bottles for later sampling). The Brad Penn had the best UOA. I'll need to scan them in and I'll post them. (check the ultimate motor oil thread, as that's where i'll post the link)

I too believe that it's the formulation of the oil that matters the most and that you can refine a petroleum product to perform as well as a syn if you really care to, like Brad Penn and Swepco do.

Charles - thanks for all of your work in this area and taking the time to post. It is incredibly helpful!

I am going with Brad Penn for my 911s. But what about for modern cars like current BMWs and MBs, which call for thin synthetic oils?

Email me or call me for specifics for other cars. With some makes, like BMW and VW, there are also warranty considerations and such, just like with the new Porsches.

I have had quite a few people buy the Brad Penn 0w30 (has 30-40% pao group 4 syn base stock blended in) in lieu of using 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, and 10w30 for their new cars. Excellent formulation with excellent TBN and a film strength (HTHS viscosity) higher than M1 0w40.

Pelican sells the Swepco 306, and that's what I'm using on my cars these days:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/CARE/POR_CARE_swepco_pg7.htm

-Wayne

I'm using the Brad Penn 10w30 in my 92 BMW 325is. ;-)

How are the detergent levels in the Brad Penn?

The multigrade Brad Penn is ~10 TBN; the monogrades are in the ~7 TBN range.

If you are in Canada and want Brad Penn I may have the answer

See this thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/377414-brad-penn-oil-just-may-available-canada.html

LORDCO Autoparts stocks GM EOS

Just so you western guys know.
I was at the Maple Ridge store today and they had lots.

Hmmm, I tried them a while back when I started the "has the formula for GM EOS changed" thread. I guess they got some more, off to the store I got tomorrow!!

Cheers