Paint for less than $2,000?

[tcesar888]

Hello!

My ’78 Targa (Silver) is in need of a paint job.

Background:

When the PO had it shipped to Hawaii (’78), it was damaged by the shipper. Back in ’78 they used straps around the cars and lift them to and from the ship etc… Apparently the sides got damaged (paint scrapes etc..) and the shipper had a local company do a partial paint job on the sides and front. I’m sure back then it looked nice… Anyway, 28yrs later, the paint and clear coat is bubbling and is rough etc… BTW, there is no damage to the car (few tiny dings, chips etc…); and no rust.

My Situation:

I want paint job, but I don’t want to pay through the nose…I’d like to keep it less than $2,000. Although this is not likely to ever be a "show car", I want clean solid result...

My Questions:

1.) Any recommendations on how to get a $2000 paint job that I’ll be happy with?

2.) What rubber fitments should I replace (no over-spray for me)? Kits? Note: Cost of rubber not included in my $2K.

3.) If I were to pull it apart myself (prior to paint), what exactly should I pull apart?

3.) Any specific instructions or questions to ask the prep'per and painter?

4.) What would you do?


Thanks in advance,

Tom

[the]

You know, it really depends on your local market conditions. But IMO, if you find the right guy, and do some of the work yourself, you can get a decent paintjob for $2K

Most of the work in a paint job is the prep. The actual spraying of the paint is only a few hours of time.

I'd definitely break the car down for painting. These things come apart surprisingly quickly. I'd at least take the bumpers off, the rockers, mirrors, door handles, windshield, deck and trunk lids, headlights and fuel door off. Also the minor trim pieces, like the door top aluminum strips, which just pop off, the windshield wipers, etc. You'll be surprised at how quickly you can do that. And, when you do, how little there is for the painter to have to carefully mask.

The car obviously would need to be sanded down before painting, and that's the biggest decision for you. Who is going to do it, and how far down to take it? If the paint and body are still pretty good, I'd do that myself, block sand it down to the factory primer, repair the minor dings. You can then deliver it to them for a final leveling primer coat, final block sanding, sealer and paint.

In most labor markets, you can get a good job out of that for $2000. The supplies would be around $500-$600, so that leaves around $1500 for labor.

[RickM]

Yes, strip the car of everything possible.

Ask your mechanic or enthusiast friends if they know of any body/paint guys that do work on the side.

I just had quite a bit of very high quality paint work done on my Benz SL. I stripped the areas in need of paint (essentially one side of the car) and he did a great job......for $450.

[WPOZZZ]

It'll be really tough here as shops really don't want to do repaints anymore. They only like to do collision repair because it is quick money. Corvette Center did an awesome job on my friend's SC, but I think it was @ $3500. It was cheap because it was another industry guy's car.

[Kirk Lundmark]

Please pardon the stupid question, but what is block sanding? I have new damage to one side of my 82 911 and am thinking about having the body shop do the repairs and prime it. I would then prep the car for an entire repaint.

Is there a resource that addresses prepping paint for a repaint?

Thanks,
Kirk

[Porsche-O-Phile]

There are many, many online resources and books about body work.

Block sanding is basically using two different color primers in order to identify high spots while you're doing the prep.

[Hugh R]

Block sanding is also where you buy a flexible rubber sanding block that fits in your hand and the sandpaper attaches to the block. If you use sand paper with your fingers, you'll dig into the paint with the tips of your fingers.

[tcar]

Get this book from Pelican for some general info. Explains block sanding, color sanding, etc.
Big hurry, PepBoys, etc. has it too.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/BOOK/POR_BOOK_bkrest_pg2.htm

[Kirk Lundmark]

tcar-I just ordered the book from our host. Thanks for the lead.

Kirk

[munsonbw]

Go here for an excellent forum: http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php?index

I knew very little about painting and body work. The archives have every imaginable topic covered and even some tech articles. After this site alone and no other books, I painted my '68 Bronco. I was happy with the results and help.

[9dreizig]

Here's another idea ( not mine actually, but a good one). I understand that most vo-tech schools will do a paint job for cost of materials.. worth a try if you have one near you

[Porschekid962]

for 2k you can set yourself up with a decent spraygun and a compressor with water filter.

The paint is up to you along with prep work. As far as the paint goes, I am not certain about other states but I am almost 100% that California now requires waterborne paints. I know there are places where you can still puchase old school paint but it is no longer legal. Have fun with your project and do a lot of the prep work yourself.

[Evans, Marv]

It's pretty easy to strip the car of the things you want to in preparation for the paint job. One problem you may run into (if you're like me) is the "while you're in there" syndrome. That may lengthen the time to complete the job, but you'll have fun.

[tcesar888]

Thanks everyone...

I delivered the car to a local paint pro on Monday (friend of a friend...). Prep and paint is going to cost $2500; taking about 2-3wks. I stripped all the rubber and fixtures myself. He will do the windows and hard to get stuff for me.

I'm now sorting through all the bits to see what I absolutely need to replace. I priced-up a complete set of rubber/fitments and it came to $1500 (not gonna happen). I plan to get all the major pieces though. I figure ~$500.

I pray this job will come out as expected. I realize you get what you pay for; but it should be a step up from a Earl/Maaco job. We'll see! Super excited!

Thereafter, I'll post a photo of my ride. The paint was the worst part of the car...

Thanks!

Tom

[RWebb]

What I hear on the rubber is to avoid non-Porsche pieces - apparently they rot quickly and don't fit well.

[tcesar888]

Originally Posted by RWebb

What I hear on the rubber is to avoid non-Porsche pieces - apparently they rot quickly and don't fit well.

Thanks, and good point!

I'm compiling a list via our host. However, after I reviewed the end-run figures, I decided I better take a close look at what I have; and see if I can breath some life into some items. For certain I am doing the windows/trim, lights, doors/handles, mirrors, fender/body seams, trunk, deck, and few others. I'm not going to touch the Targa rubber, bellows, or bumpers...yikes $$$$

Thanks!

Tom

[TRE Cup]

We have a bunch of second hand "accordions" bumper bellows for front and rear in excellent condition for cheap
contact me at tremotorsports@gmail.com for price and shipping
Thanks
dave

[RWebb]

- you might want to replace the really hard to get at stuff now -- instead of the typical alternative of doing the worst off pieces first...

Good Luck!

[Mr.Puff]

Hard to get stuff is keen... =( like a new targa top for an 84.

[afterburn 549]

Tcesar 88 ,
Here is the real deal. Go talk to your body shops that have real paint booths.
Make a deal with them that you will buy their paint you will pry them with questions on a weekly basis, perhaps one of the dudes can swing past your house (shop) once a week for a hands on demo.
The end deal IS they shoot it in their paint booth.....Yes I know all the work is in the prep.......but a proper paint booth will help..
worked for me and yes 2000 ought to cover all materials