Could I/Should I create FrankenPorsche??

[DARISC]

Originally Posted by v8_ranch

Do you know where the actual fuel line rupture took place, or was it imposisble to tell? Just curious as I have an 83.

Here's the fix on my 82. The po had it patched with tape and some sort of silicone (it's a high pressure line!! - doh!!). Smelled raw gas a week after I bought it - could probably have gone up in flames at any time. I was REALLY lucky!

[mkaraoglan]

could have been worse...really.
friend of mine has a 77 (i think) porsche. just after he bought it he's sitting at an intersection and he suddenly feels warm..gets out of the car--he's on fire!
he still has scars from the burns.
car was bran new.
i guess fuel burning that close was not visible as there was no smoke.

[SCWDP911]

Well, I am not laughing at all, and I am sure no one else here is either. Thanks for being willing to share the info. With parts availability what it can be sometimes, it puts all of us in potentially the same situation, whether on this, or something else.

Thanks again for sharing the info, and I hope you are able to get her back running again soon. On that note, there is one more option that could be a less inexpensive yet. Search the board for a thread by "futureoptions" from a month or two ago. He did a nice job having a new intake fabbed up that used the intake runnners, but got rid of most or the rest of the CIS system and instead used a Holley 2 or 4 bbl carb. It was a nice alternative to anyone but a purist in my opinion. Good luck man!

Originally Posted by GBG1000

I strongly suspect it was the short line between the accumulator and the steel line. Here's why - this is real embarrassing but hopefully others learn from me (this humbling admission is my contribution to the thread).

PO had aftermarket tail. Hinge to this engine lid wore a hole in the original line. It almost caught fire once previously before I found the leak. So I look high and low for a replacement line. NLA. Even tried dealer- he couldnt get from Germany. They refered me to an old guy that they said would build the line for me. I went 1 hr to see this guy- he said H_ll no, i don't do that but I'll tell you how to do it.

I cut the metal parts loose from the original hose. Fit some 5/16" fuel injection tubing (web site said 900 PSI) secured it with fuel injection line clamps at each end and reconnected it. Boy was I happy to have my car running again.

Melt down happened about 5 days later. I did some forensics after the fact. The line was toasted, but still connected at both ends. Could not tell if it was ruptured (too brittle to examine). Maybe the clamps wore through. Therefore, although it appeared to be connected, I strongly suspect that I was responsible for the damage and just thank God I got out without being torched.
Sure there is possibility that something else caused it, but that would be a big coincidence.

You guys can laugh a bit..... it is alright. No use crying in my beer. I'll be back.

Hope this in some way will help others.

[SCWDP911]

Here is that link for futureoptions thread I spoke of:

Oh yeah Buddy.... KILL THE NEWBIE!!!!

[Joe Bob]

Yikes.....

Glad you made it out OK....

Strip it down and then reassess. Parting it out may give you most of what a replacement would cost....

[GBG1000]

Originally Posted by v8_ranch

Here is that link for futureoptions thread I spoke of:

Oh yeah Buddy.... KILL THE NEWBIE!!!!

This may be very helpful!!

Cheap effective and won't need any wiring or electronics.

Obviously resale value is not an issue.

I tink with that carb, new glass, fan, alternator, and shroud and MSD clone.
I will only need to deal with wiring and minor body work.

Bobolo has given me a little hope that wiring could be tied in at the tunnel.

Could I go with a lower pressure fuel pump instead of the factor unit with a regulator. Might be cheaper and I am a bit gunshy regarding the high pressure system.

Thanks in advance.

[SCWDP911]

I think future used a different fuel pump. Maybe he will chime in or you can PM him for details. He was selling the car do to a problem with with leg or foot I think (can't shift very easily)

[futuresoptions]

Hey guys, I used the stock fuel pump and filter. Took off the factory regulator and installed a mallory high volume regulator from Summit. I used the factory return line also. I used a 2 barrel holley design carb made for a 68 Ford mustang w/289 engine. Got the carb at Oreily's. I have decided to keep my car.... I think that I will try and make a hydraulic clutch setup on the car or I will have to purchase a g50 for it.... FYI I go into surgery next Friday..... hope it helps....

[SCWDP911]

Originally Posted by futuresoptions

Hey guys, I used the stock fuel pump and filter. Took off the factory regulator and installed a mallory high volume regulator from Summit. I used the factory return line also. I used a 2 barrel holley design carb made for a 68 Ford mustang w/289 engine. Got the carb at Oreily's. I have decided to keep my car.... I think that I will try and make a hydraulic clutch setup on the car or I will have to purchase a g50 for it.... FYI I go into surgery next Friday..... hope it helps....

Good luck with the surgery. I hope it helps too. If you ever want to get another opinion, let me know... one of my good friends here is a very good ortho surgeon. Works for a lot of sports teams...

[futuresoptions]

After looking at your pics though this is what I would do if it were my car:

1. install new rear window and seal.
2. deep clean interior.
3. drop motor and tranny
4. clean and repaint engine compartment
5. install fiberglass rear trunk lid with or without wing
6. install fiberglass rear bumper
7. repaint exterior
8. install new tail light assemblies
9. install Subaru engine as posted on this site.

By the looks of your pics this is what I would recommend. I would recommend the 2bbl conversion if you didn't have so much damage, but I think dropping the motor is probably your best bet...

[kcpaz]

^^^^^ Subaru motor ^^^^^^^ smart man there

[GBG1000]

Originally Posted by futuresoptions

Hey guys, I used the stock fuel pump and filter. Took off the factory regulator and installed a mallory high volume regulator from Summit. I used the factory return line also. I used a 2 barrel holley design carb made for a 68 Ford mustang w/289 engine. Got the carb at Oreily's. I have decided to keep my car.... I think that I will try and make a hydraulic clutch setup on the car or I will have to purchase a g50 for it.... FYI I go into surgery next Friday..... hope it helps....

Futures- Best wishes for a successful Surgery. Hopefully I will have time this weekend to more toroughy evaluate the damage.

[GBG1000]

Question on the body panels where the paint burned off. Besides keeping it out of the weather, what should I do to temporarily protect the metal from surface rust without spending too much money, or creating more work down the line. (light sand and primer??)

[Bobboloo]

Your panels are galvanized. Sanding actually scratches the galvanizing off. It's best to keep it if you can but often can't be helped when your refinishing. In the interim try just using a mild scotchbrite to clean the surface and then hit it with some primer.

If rust is already setting up then get some metal prep. Eastwood makes a product called Fast Etch that works great. It has acid to etch bare metal and neutralize the rust. It also has zinc and phosphate to protect bare metal from rust re-occuring. You can wipe off the metal prep with a rag and mineral spirits. Then hit it with some primer.

[GBG1000]

I Found about 1/2 oz water in 3 of the intakes. That must mean that some water went into the other cylinders through open valves.

What are my options for dealing with this. I would prefer not to drop the engine and tear it apart, but if that is the only real option.......

With regard to the surface rust that is beginning to show on the burnt panels, - is that rust killer/eater/neutralizer a good idea (I think it is basically phosphoric acid.) If so should I limit it to the areas where rust is showing, or hit all exposed sheet metal?

Thanks in advance- Jerry

[RWebb]

pull that motor all the way apart - every tiny piece

[ischmitz]

I disagree with pulling the motor all the way apart at this point. You will have to pull it out of the car though is my guess. That's what I would do:

Get yourself an engine stand and pull the engine/tranny. Clean the engine outide thoroughly and make sure not too much more water gets into the engine. If a little bit of water that might have gotten into barrels is your only concern at this point put a spoon of oil into each intake and turn the motor over a couple of times. The oil will coat the cylinder walls and prevent corrosion. You might want to take the plugs out to make turning the engine over easier.

Good luck,
Ingo

[GBG1000]

Ingo- I like your method. It is certainly what I want to hear.

RWebb - I appreciate your advice, but certainly not what I wanted to hear.

I would like to get more opinions, all are appreciated.

Ingo- if the oil method will work, then what is your rational for removing engine/transmission? (strictly to clean and paint engine bay?)

Thanks for your input.

[real550A]

If you don't pull the engine out, you'll be fighting every step of
the way to rewire, replumb and refinish. Pulling the engine is
so simple, you'll be glad you did.
I'm betting you find more damaged than you thought, after the
engine is out. Take your time and call it a learning experience.
Best of luck whichever way you decide.

[boba]

Originally Posted by RWebb

pull that motor all the way apart - every tiny piece

I know it is not what you want to hear but it is the correct and in the long run the economical answer. You do not know what went into that motor.

One question I did not see you answer was how the fire was put out. Most of the chemical extingushers are very corrosive and will very quickly act on Al and MAG. Water would be better, but still hard on components.

As far as the body panels and engine compartment, the quicker you clean and prep the metal the better. If paint is blistered, take it off and prep the metal. This can be redone later to repaint standard, for now you just want to stop and protect from Rust. A hi pressure washer with a rust inhibitor will help get any corrosive ash out of the tight areas and help keep the rust at bay.

Pay attention to all electrical as any heat/ fire or corrosive damage to the wiring and connectors can show up intermittently long after all other repairs are done. It is best to replace all damaged wiring well forward of the fire damage.