Here we go again! Zuffenhaus MS RSR project... - Page 25

eimkeith · 06-15-2015, 02:16 PM

Preston, there isn't one! The drivers were put in risky situations back in the day:

Just the old bolt-in ST era bar, from the looks of it in this photo.

This build retains its 8 point cage, although the door bars are coming out for semi-regular use sanity.

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

eimkeith · 06-15-2015, 02:22 PM

So over the weekend and the course of the day I was able to complete the dash.

I did prep, positioning, and cut in on the top of the dash over the weekend, then came in this morning, doubled checked my cowl position, and went at it.

Dash resolved, I made the upper hole closing panel and interior kill switch/speaker cover (made this bolt in to give me wiring access later) and called it a day.

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

eimkeith · 06-16-2015, 12:31 PM

Nothing sexy or fun today; spent the day grinding off the residual stubs from removing the door bars.

They will no longer be in my way, so that's good.

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

eimkeith · 04:06 AM

Wrapped up the center tunnel repair this morning:

I don't have a handy 'before' photo, but this car came in with a strange modification (hacked up) at the rear of the shifter opening.

Pretty interesting, I'll see if I can find a photo from when I cut in the donor metal several weeks ago.

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

eimkeith · 01:25 PM

Good day today, got several things done.

I'd cut in the engine compartment rear crossmember corners and bump-ectomy last month, and was able to get those bits welded in and metal finished this afternoon to backdate the engine compartment:

I was also able to get the ignition coil bracket installed and start on the RSR coil over reinforcements on the crossmember.

The Mary Stuart RSR that we're referencing didn't actually run the coil over reinforcements (and in fact, it appears that the shock towers are raised on that particular chassis) but they are ubiquitous for the '73 RSR so in they go.

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

John S · 06-17-2015, 02:37 PM

Nice!

eimkeith · 06-17-2015, 02:58 PM

Thanks! I try to make it easy for the paint shop where I can.

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

Shaun @ Tru6 · 06-17-2015, 03:28 PM

Keith, beautiful work. What wire are you using? speed and voltage?

eimkeith · 06-17-2015, 03:48 PM

.030 . I use that in both the 110 and 220 welders to reduce inventory.

Using the 110 at the moment, pretty close to the recommended settings on the inside of the panel.

I do run my gas high, though... Habit, mostly.

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

Shaun @ Tru6 · 06-17-2015, 03:53 PM

Interesting, thanks. I do my best sheet metal work with .024 but mistakenly got some .023 recently. I'll have to try it out this weekend. And get some .030 to see how that works.

eimkeith · 06-17-2015, 04:42 PM

.024 might be better, I've considered moving to that for the sheet metal but haven't had a chance to try it. (If I'm not billing, I'm not earning!)

Let me know how it goes, curious as to whether the warping tendency increases with the wire size (and subsequent heat increase.)

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

Shaun @ Tru6 · 06-17-2015, 04:49 PM

That's been my experience. Thicker wire, more heat = more warp, and more metal to grind down afterward. I can also move a .024 puddle much more smoothly than anything else. Have tried .026 and .028.

eimkeith · 06:03 PM

I'm overlapping high heat short welds - some random burn-through, but better penetration and smaller HAZ for me than lower heat, longer welds. It's been the best route for me up to this point.

I'm open to suggestions, though, always.

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

eimkeith · 06-17-2015, 05:42 PM

What is tougher for me is replicating Porsche-welds where needed visually (strut tower braces, coil mounts, etc.)
Hard for me to transition to large hump continuous weld beads from sheet metal work,

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

eimkeith · 06-18-2015, 04:08 AM

Found the before photo of the unusual tunnel damage, just for posterity:

eimkeith · 09:50 AM

Working on the catch bottle mounting this morning, which involved heavily cutting in the coil over reinforcement and then notching it to cradle the bottle (not necessarily historically accurate, but should provide a stable mount):

I also drilled a locating hole to capture the leading tab on the rib under the washer bottle (a '72-73 washer bottle is used as the catch tank)

Still need to add the tabs for the strap, then move on to the driver's side shock tower reinforcements.

EDIT - here's the finished catch bottle mounting:

And here's our reference car:
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/gtch1/10145734965/

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

KTL · 06-18-2015, 07:49 AM

Keith,

Do also you plate-reinforce the underside of the shock tower where it connects with the frame rail? I've noticed this area shows signs of separation on cars running coilovers.

Thanks,
Kevin

eimkeith · 06-18-2015, 09:48 AM

Kevin; down here?

No, we haven't to date - just the tops/sides. Any idea what the spring rates are of those showing failure? Is it possible that ride height/shock length is causing shock bottoming?

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

eimkeith · 06-18-2015, 12:32 PM

RSR shock tower/coil over reinforcements complete

The chassis to-do list is starting to get smaller!

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

eimkeith · 06-20-2015, 12:04 PM

Got some contoured holes in the front bulkhead/firewall closed today.

(Didn't feel like getting covered with ground steel, so I'll do the metal finishing tomorrow or the day after on these)

Harvesting the contoured patches from the long hood donor:

Cutting in holes (trimming in to plug two unused holes on each side with one patch panel)

And a couple of unused holes in the center while I'm at it.

keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)