Here we go again! Zuffenhaus MS RSR project...

[SteveM911]

Subscribed


Jeez, that's a terrible job you have to go to every day.


www.impactbumpers.com

[911teo]

Originally Posted by HelmetHead

Keith,
I'm curious to know more about the powdercoating of the tub on this project and Matteo's car. Prior to PC'ing the tub do you complete your bodywork (all metal welding, etc) then bake the PC? When do the body fillers get applied if any are used...is this done after the coating? I'm considering powdercoating my tub once I complete my welding/modifications but am still confused about the sequence of steps.

My thought to sequence are:
1. Make changes to body such as flares/drip rail deletion/stiffening mods.
2. Hammer and dolly to desired shape/fit
3. Strip entire tub by either blasting/dipping.
4. Powdercoat tub (normal coating or primer coating?)
5. Finishing body fillers/smoothing of worked areas.
6. Base color coat/clear coat.

Again thanks for sharing the wonderful work you guys do!

Helmethead

Helmet

you basically nailed it. I am sure Keith will chime in with the details but the process is exactly the one you have outlined.

For the stripping of my car they used a baking procedure. Instead of blasting or dipping they baked the car at a very high temperature. This dissolved any possible residue of material attached to the tub (paint, glue, gunk etc).

The advantage over blasting and dipping was the fact that all the little spots could be reached without the risk of the acid getting trapped.

So from powder coating is basically downhill... it's just a question of putting it back together.

In my case we decided to swap to 930 trailing arms after the PC procedure.

So Keith had to move the pick up points for the TAs.

You can see the contrast with the rest of the car...





Since it was back there it was not a big deal (even though they were painted over in Mex Blue anyway).

Make sure that you get a close match for the color. I remember it was not the easiest task.

[eimkeith]

Actually Matteo's car was our introduction into this process, so we do things in a different order nowadays...!

When we're approaching a big build like this from the onset (project creep doesn't always allow for the correct sequence, mind you), we'll first totally disassemble the car to the unibody - and I mean totally. All that is left is factory undercoating, glue, and paintwork. Everything gets filed and binned by car and put on shelves here at the shop.

Then the car gets shipped to our bakeoff contractor, who puts the car in a large oven which turns all that good german goop into ash. They then pressure wash the entire unibody, every nook and cranny, with a zinc phosphate solution which acts as a temporary rust-inhibitor (like for several months to a year indoors, if necessary.)

Upon receiving the car at our facility in phosphate coat, the fabrication begins. By doing the bakeoff first, we save TONS of prep time over Matteo's project, where we had to do material removal in every area we were working. Additionally, there are no hidden suprises in the body in this method, as you are staring at bare metal - no fillers, no lead, nothing to conceal damage or rust.

The smaller parts - doors, fenders, hinges, hood, decklid, etc. go to a local e-coat facility to receive the industry-standard for corrosion protection, as the major car manufacturers utilize today. This is the black e-coat finish you see on panels in some of our threads.

Upon completion of the fabrication, pre-galvanized unibodies (like 1976 and prior, for instance) are now going to be shipped to a massive contractor that has the capacity to e-coat the entire unibody. Galvanized cars will have this option also, at customer's request, for additional corrosion protection. We are adding this step to the process so as not to have to rely entirely on the paintshop to be meticulous with the OEM-style waxy-goopy stuff that they spray into enclosed channels and whatnot to ward off corrosion. Although that process worked fairly well for the original cars, the years take their toll (even on the galvanized chassis, like my own) and we'd like to see more longevity and have better control over the product (as opposed to trusting the client's preferred paintshop to correctly protect the car against corrosion)

(As a side note, we are looking at keeping a small inventory of titled, repaired, stripped and e-coated unibodies available to individuals and shops to purchase for project-starters and restorations in the future.)

So, now you have a zuffenhaus-modified, stripped and e-coated unibody that can go straight to paint! Or powdercoat.

For additional weight savings (over using sound-deadening and undercoat on the underside) and better wear and tear in the trunk, cabin, and engine compartment areas, we offer the option of having the unibody powder coated. As Matteo mentioned, exact color match isn't always possible, and the powder coat has a different surface sheen than paint, but the color is uniform and the wear qualities exceed that of paint (although nothing is indestructable). the car we've done leave us looking like a big piece of colored-candy - everything coated uniformly with the powder coat.

The powder coat is not applied to the exterior panels, however - these receive traditional paint refinishing that we are all accustomed to. Powder-coat is not spot-repairable and is not an acceptable exterior finish.

As Matteo pointed out, further work can and does happen on the powder-coated areas - as he illustrated with the rear suspension pickup work on his car - the powder coat is ground away, then feathered, and paint is applied over the top for protection.

Did I leave anything out?

[HelmetHead]

Keith - Its no wonder you guys have a shop full of cars to work on with the attention to detail your work provides!

Thanks again for the detailed information on the coating preparation and finishing proceedures.

Keep up the great work!
Helmethead

[Rory Mckenna]

Originally Posted by eimkeith

What is that triangular template hanging off the rear deck area? .. it looks like the template for the tail that was used on the Targa Florio cars.... are you guys going to replicate that car with this one?

[lateapex911]

Hmmm...I thought it looked like the profile of a duck tail...

[davisriley]

I vote for flat black, that thing looks mean! As always keith, fantastic work. Now if I would only hit the lottery......

[eimkeith]

Originally Posted by Rory Mckenna

What is that triangular template hanging off the rear deck area? .. it looks like the template for the tail that was used on the Targa Florio cars.... are you guys going to replicate that car with this one?

Hmmm.... could it have something to do with this...?

[wideRSR]

This is such an excellent resource, Just want to say thanks for taking the time to post your work here. If I can ask, are the steel flares OEM?

[eimkeith]

Thanks guys for the compliments.

The flares are actually OEM 930 flares, massaged somewhat to fit 12" wheels...

[Jeff Alton]

You guys finally getting to understand the "MS RSR" part in the title of the thread?

Cheers

[EarlySport]

Subscribed. Excellent work!

[Jon Merck]

Ok, I'll ask... what is a "MS RSR"?

Wow! That is some meat on the ground... I can only guess what will be stuffed in the engine compartment

Sub'd...

[ERH]

Originally Posted by Jon Merck

Ok, I'll ask... what is a "MS RSR"?

Wow! That is some meat on the ground... I can only guess what will be stuffed in the engine compartment

Sub'd...

Another clue



Ed

[boba]

That's to easy.

[ERH]

Originally Posted by boba

That's to easy.

Had the same problem when I was teaching.....

[rennch]

subbed.

[barney911rs]

Keith,

Must of missed this thread. I see on the first page what appears to be a Hargett shifter. I'm leaning towards getting one for my race car. I've heard both good and bad stories. What is your opinion on these?

[ktr6]

Keith, any updates?

[FenderBender]

sweet!!!!!